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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to clean up the wiring of this DIY LED fixture. I'm playing with some ideas in my head, checking to see if anyone has better ideas on how to approach this with locally available parts. I would like to change the wiring for power. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the heatsink, put the wires through it then solder it to this DC power jack. I will have to drill holes through the sink fins big enough to accommodate the jack. Next is to wire this plug to a cord connecting to the driver/dimmer circuit. Radioshack doesn't have the right angle plugs that I would have preferred. I'm probably going to use a black lamp cord with this.




IMG_20110910_121242.jpg by reybie, on Flickr
 

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I used that same type of connection in my first led build. Those DC barrel connectors, once installed, go along way to prevent accidental wire reversal and "idiot-proof" connections nicely. Just make sure to pay attention to fact that the outside of the "female" end will ground to the heat sink, so check your leds for shorts to the heat sink prior to powering it up after the new mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the grounding. I'm going to another radioshack tomorrow, the one I went to had N-size female and M-size male connectors only. I have the driver and DC power supply adaptor for the dimmer all tucked in a project box. Next is drilling the heatsink for the DC connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some pics, I still need to get the lamp cord or something similar to connect the fixture to the driver.


Hole drilled through 3 fins.

IMG_20110912_183036.jpg by reybie, on Flickr

Female DC jack fits. I screwed up something with the hole. I drilled too close to the heatsink main body so I can't screw in the nut that came with the jack... oops! I will look for one of those retention clips, it's still pretty tight because the wires are holding it in.


IMG_20110912_183100.jpg by reybie, on Flickr


Test fit on the connectors.

IMG_20110912_183121.jpg by reybie, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finally got the time to finish everything yesterday. Just waiting on the hanging kit from rapidled (I hope it is in stock like their store said).


Components inside the project box. Ran the whole thing for a 2 hours at almost max amp with lid on, driver was warm to touch but not too hot. Debating on drilling vent holes for heat.


IMG_20111002_170431.jpg by reybie, on Flickr


Lid on...


IMG_20111002_170414.jpg by reybie, on Flickr

Test fire...


IMG_20111002_170458.jpg by reybie, on Flickr


Sitting on a 24" tall stool (not positive on height).


IMG_20111002_174924.jpg by reybie, on Flickr
 

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Check that connection. What sort of power can it take vs. what you're pushing through it?

If it gets warm / hot, you may want to do something else. It may be just fine as is.

After that I'd suggest some 3mm or 4mm bullet connectors used in RC hobbies. They can take 30+ amps but they end up being quite clean.
 

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Meanwell drivers can get pretty warm, so I prefer mounting them out in the open for better cooling. You can just mount it on the outside of the project box, and it still looks neat.
 

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NICE!!!

14 LED's x 3W = 42W of light with reflectors you multi it by ~ 1.8 =75W Of LED light.

:D

u need side shields to cover the glare tho... or those side glares will get annoying!.

Holy crap, I used a meat thermometer to check on the temperature. The sink temp went up to 130F on full power.
yeah... u got that sink from rapidLED's huh?

lol... i love their sinks... but they need some form of active cooling on them.

92mm fan will fit very nicely over it.. a 120mm fan hangs off the sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks! The glare is not too bad when on low/med power. I had the LEDs on full blast to take a decent pic without blurring. My cell phone camera craps out when the light is low.

The sinks are from rapidled and with the way I have it set now, it's barely even warm to the touch.
 
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