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You may want to use a little loc-tite or teflon tape to fix that. If the sound persists, take apart the solenoid, clean it, tighten everything down, and try again.

-Philosophos
 

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You may want to use a little loc-tite or teflon tape to fix that. If the sound persists, take apart the solenoid, clean it, tighten everything down, and try again.
You generally dont want to use teflon on it as the tape can easily get caught inside the parts of the regulator and destroy it.

Is it coming from the litttle hole on the side of the regulator? if so, I believe its a pressure relief valve. Give more information as to what happen before this happened.

-Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it is not leaking out of the npt ports its leaking on the back where the actual solenoid rod is... i took it apart and cleaned the backing and put pipe joint compound on but it didnt help... it doesnt sound like a large leak but its a leak... should i be worried
 

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j-gens said:
it is not leaking out of the npt ports its leaking on the back where the actual solenoid rod is... i took it apart and cleaned the backing and put pipe joint compound on but it didnt help... it doesnt sound like a large leak but its a leak... should i be worried
At worst you're losing CO2, and I'd be annoyed with that. Did it look like any of the parts were worn or damaged in the slightest? Sometimes a small score on a rubber diaphragm, or a cross-threaded screw is all it takes.

You generally dont want to use teflon on it as the tape can easily get caught inside the parts of the regulator and destroy it.
If you put it after the regulator, it's not a problem; the pressure will make sure that at worst, it just gets into the solenoid. If it gets into the solenoid, it isn't going to get messed up by a little teflon tape; it'll need a cleaning at worst. Putting teflon tape before the regulator shouldn't be required, given that there should be a good rubber or nylon washer in there anyhow.

-Philosophos
 

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Are you sure it is not the solenoid buzzing? I believe some of the Clippard solenoids buzz a bit when they are on.

Otherwise, if you suspect a leak, use some soapy water and paint (with a brush) all your joints with the soapy water.
 

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Doesn't like Kool-Aid
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Let me guess, is it leaking from the plate with the two screws?

Did you recently change the CO2 bottle?

Clippard solenoids should never buzz when they are powered on.
 

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Not asking if the bottle is new...Just trying to figure out if you changed bottles.

If the Clippard solenoid were defective, the defect would more than likely be the solenoid "leaking" gas into the line in the off position. Meaning if the solenoid were powered down, CO2 would still flow. This type of problem rings more of damage than defect.

You (not you you j-gens, but you in the general sense :icon_wink) need to be careful when swapping out a CO2 bottle. If someone grasps the regulator by the solenoid even slightly when attaching the regulator to the bottle, such damage can result.

Without sounding like trying to drum up a customer, I'd say odds on repairing the solenoid are pretty slim. You can try, but I have a feeling you are going to need to replace it.
 

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i c... well i guess im in the market for a new solenoid... i was probably a little rough while installing...

Or, lower the bubble rate slightly and run co2 24x7. Co2 will be steadier over the 24 hour period and the extra cost of co2 will probably be lower than the cost of a new solenoid. If your 4 kdh drop checker is greenish yellow for 24 hours, your fish won't mind. I've been doing it for over 2 years with Cardinal Tetras, not the most robust fish. If you have any BBA, 24x7 might help that to.
 

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i c... well i guess im in the market for a new solenoid... i was probably a little rough while installing...
Are you going with another Clippard solenoid or are you going to try a Burkert solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Are you going with another Clippard solenoid or are you going to try a Burkert solenoid?

im probably going to try and check the internals first and then i dont know what im going to do... what is the difference between the burkett and clippard?
do you recommend one over another?


i dont think i want to run my co2 24/7...
 

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im probably going to try and check the internals first and then i dont know what im going to do... what is the difference between the burkett and clippard?
do you recommend one over another?


i dont think i want to run my co2 24/7...
Main Points
- the Burkert runs cooler than the Clippard
- the Clippard has a red LED and the Burkert doesn't
- the Burkert is available in brass and stainless steel
- the Burkert is more expensive

I have both and I've never had any trouble with either one. I like the red LED on the Clippards, but it isn't a necessity. The Burkert solenoids are less bulky and more solidly built. I can't say that I prefer one over the other. They both do a very good job for me.

Orlando sells both solenoids. Maybe he can tell you more about their pros and cons.
 

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Or, lower the bubble rate slightly and run co2 24x7. Co2 will be steadier over the 24 hour period and the extra cost of co2 will probably be lower than the cost of a new solenoid.
The solenoid is leaking, but not in the line. The CO2 is leaking into the atmosphere. Lowering bubble rate will have no effect since CO2 isn't getting into the aquarium.

As far as the brand of solenoid, it really shouldn't matter much. Running temperature really doesn't come into play. I have been running Clippards 24/7 for years and never had a temperature issue....or a burn for that matter, and I can't see much of an advantage to stainless steel other than bumping the price of the solenoid up substantially. Believe me, I have tested the gamut.

Try taking the solenoid apart and putting it back together. It can't hurt. See if you can get that back plate to re-seat and you may be in business!
 

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The solenoid is leaking, but not in the line. The CO2 is leaking into the atmosphere. Lowering bubble rate will have no effect since CO2 isn't getting into the aquarium.

As far as the brand of solenoid, it really shouldn't matter much. Running temperature really doesn't come into play. I have been running Clippards 24/7 for years and never had a temperature issue....or a burn for that matter, and I can't see much of an advantage to stainless steel other than bumping the price of the solenoid up substantially. Believe me, I have tested the gamut.

Try taking the solenoid apart and putting it back together. It can't hurt. See if you can get that back plate to re-seat and you may be in business!
If you run 24x7, you don't need a solenoid (you can remove it). I was just pointing out an alternative if, he(she) couldn't fix the solenoid and didn't wish to purchase another. But the OP doesn't seem interested in running 24x7 anyway.
 
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