[woody123]

I run my CO2 on a smart plug. I plug in the smart plug, then add the controller, and then the regulator plug goes in last.

Next you will want to set the smart plug on and off schedule on your app. I have most of mine come on 1-2 hours before lights on and about 1 hour before lights off (this will vary depending on your setup and goals.)

If you haven't run a CO2 controller before here is some additional advice:

Set the ph level that you want the controller to turn the regulator on at. I have mine set to come on at any ph level above 6.4 as this is my target level. So, in the morning when my smart plug is scheduled to come on the PH is generally around 7.2, the controller then takes over and monitors the ph level and keeps the regulator turned on until it hits your target level, or the smart plug turns it off at the end of your schedule.

I think most folks try to get the ph level to their target level by the time the lights are on, this can take an hour or two (again this depends on your setup) on my 125 gallon this takes almost two hours on my 55 gallon it only takes an hour. a 1.0 ph drop is commonly used by many for their target, I tend to use a .6 - .8 drop in my tanks as most of them are medium light and it fits plant growth goals. You will likely find varying opinions and may need to do a little trial and error to find what works for your setup.

Good luck with you new tank, following.

 

[Count Krunk]

You would want the smart plug controlling the device that performs the wanted on off. So yes the Milwaukee device is would plug into that.

 

[Le duke]

@Count Krunk Ah. Ok. Didn’t know if the MC122 would lose its settings if the smart plug turned it off, or not. Good to know.

@woody123, I’m running CO2 off of a smart plug and a CO2Art Pro-SE regulator. Currently pushing about 0.6 as well, from 7 down to 6.4, but want more control. That’s good info. I appreciate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Le duke]

Up the 30% slope. 618lbs, per the packing slip. Dyneema is wonderful stuff. Autoblock hitch for safety, courtesy of US Army Ranger School.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pelvicachromis]

Nothing like some mechanical advantage. Nicely done.

 

[Le duke]

Nothing like some mechanical advantage. Nicely done.

Indeed. My wife and the FedEx guy both doubted a 145lb person could get 600+ pounds up the hill.

I explained to them that I have, in fact, done this before. In much less comfortable locations than my own driveway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Le duke]

Finished the new floor today. Here’s the current tank, where the new tank will go.

5” wide hickory, tongue and groove connections. Standard 3/4” thickness, and I specifically used longer (>5’) pieces where the tank is, with 2’ of overlap between pieces. Then, more 4-5’ sections filling in between the 3’ of the non-overlapping sections. Secured every 4-6” with standard 15g flooring staples. It is, to put it lightly, very robust.

Behind the tank is an exterior, load bearing wall. 12” to the right of the window frame, in the basement below, is a load bearing wall.

I am not an engineer. I don’t know how to calculate whether or not I should add reinforcement to my floor. I believe that the load of the new 6025 will be distributed over 22-24 square feet of mechanically connected floor area, due to how it will be situated.

Should I put in a jack post as well?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[EmotionalFescue]

Do the joists run parallel to the floor boards?

 

[Le duke]

Do the joists run parallel to the floor boards?

Perpendicular, out from the exterior wall behind the tank. That’s how I was taught to do it, by my FIL. Prevents sagging, gap formation and squeaking.

The room below it, in the basement, is relatively small at 10’x10’.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[EmotionalFescue]

If the joists run perpendicular to the exterior wall the tank is on, you should be all good.

I mean, I'm not a structural engineer, but I would feel comfortable putting a large tank there.

 

[Goodwood]

Perpendicular, out from the exterior wall behind the tank. That’s how I was taught to do it, by my FIL. Prevents sagging, gap formation and squeaking.

The room below it, in the basement, is relatively small at 10’x10’.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have substantial joist size, 2x8+ or the fancy laminate ones you would probably be good to go. However if the current tank gets ripples across the surface when you walk by, the new 6025 could be more bouncy. Reinforcement could help minimize/ eliminate this.

 

[Le duke]

If you have substantial joist size, 2x8+ or the fancy laminate ones you would probably be good to go. However if the current tank gets ripples across the surface when you walk by, the new 6025 could be more bouncy. Reinforcement could help minimize/ eliminate this.

This intrigued me, so I decided to try it.

I have to jump up and down to get any movement, with the filters turned off. It’s very minimal.

Also, my joists are 2x10s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Goodwood]

I too am no engineer, but it sounds like you are A-okay. My 50 gallon bounced quite a bit so it was a no brainer to reinforce the 165, especially with a flat-footed pre-teen and two 3 year olds who believe the living room is an olympic track.

 

[minorhero]

You are fine, I can't find it now but someone was explaining in another group how much weight you need to put down before you need to worry about floor joist reinforcement... it was up there, over 200 gallons for sure.

 

[Le duke]

Anyone have experience with CaribSea Super Naturals brand and their various varieties?

Trying to decide between Jungle River and Carolina Creek for the non-planted portions of the tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Le duke]

Bought 540lbs of “BG 4-8+” river rock for $21.13 from my local sand and rock company. Selected every piece individually and loaded it into the back of my station wagon. Won’t use anywhere near all of it, but wanted options.

Stand is built, assembling my inline heater today. I have some pipe mounting brackets coming later this week; all of the PVC will be mounted on the back of the stand. Also purchased some soft-close, full extension 100lb drawer slides. Making slide out platforms for my filters, with cam lock fittings, to ease maintenance.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Le duke]

Forgot to post a picture of the stones.

Here they are, mid-rinse:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Le duke]

Update time. Pull-out shelf complete. 100lb slides holding a sheet of 3/4” plywood that will support the FX6 and FX4. This will allow me to easily remove the top of each to perform regular maintenance. I also mounted the power strip and the inline heater to keep things looking clean.

View attachment 1050715






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Goodwood]

Update time. Pull-out shelf complete. 100lb slides holding a 3/4” sheet of plywood that will support the FX6 and FX4. This will allow me to easily remove the top of each to perform regular maintenance. I also mounted the power strip and the inline heater to keep things looking clean.

View attachment 1050706

View attachment 1050705





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The links to your photos do not work for me.

Forgot to post a picture of the stones.

Here they are, mid-rinse:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is a nice pile of rocks! Reminds me of when I was aquascaping my 165. Good times!

 

[Le duke]

Let’s try this with a different device:

View attachment 1050770




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk