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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys! I'm not sure if this is the right board or even the right forum, but mabye you guys can help me out. For some reason I can remember seeing a post about extreamly large, preformed ponds. And I'm not talking big, I'm talkin freakin huge. There was a link to a site that sold these large ponds. If anybody can show me this post or a site that sells very large preformed pond, it would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this is the wrong forum, but this site just seemed to stick out in my mind for some reason. Thanks!!

Bert
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The pond I'm talking about were made out of steel i think. You could also buy concrete vats. It was like a site for fish farm supplies. the ponds were up to 20,000 gallons. I'm obviousley no looking to buy a 20,000 gallon steel pond, but I might like to find something a little more managable. Thanks again for any help.

Bert
 

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Why not just dig a big hole and line it with betonite clay or better yet a rubber liner. Its got to be cheaper than a steel pond and a lot more user friendly. Just my $.02.

Marcel
 

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i have a pond in my backyard that i was going to tear down. i took out the liner and stuff, but now the water still sits there, so its a natural pond now. weird. i even have a fish that i through in to see if it would survive. so far so good. don't have to feed or clean or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sweet!!! I found the site!!!! It www.aquatic-eco.com . Just look under ponds and then under tanks and liners and you can find everything from fiberglass vats to 19,000 gallon storage tanks!! They're actually more affordable then you would think, and a lot easier on the back then digging a 30ft. wide 4ft. deep hole in the ground! Thanks for trying to help guys! I hope this helps someone....somehow....err.....yeah. Thanks again!

Bert
 

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Buck said:
I am thinking of pouring cement when I am ready... thats my # 1 choice right now.
I'm not a big fan of this route as the cement can actually be abbrasive to the fish. I agree that its an awesome way (structurally) to make a pond, but in practice it can cause grief. Using large EPDM/Rubber liners (although expensive) is generally a good way to go
 

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I got a 300 gallon galvanized metal stock tank at the local Feed store for $75. 5' diam x 2' tall. With an exit plug at the bottom.

My pond at homeis made of this, lined with EPDM, surrounded with 2"fence posts and metal banding. If I had it all to do over again, I'd use that plug to run an external pump and filter perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tanks may be partially buried to conserve heat and make fish observations easier.
I read the entire page and it says nothing about having to burry the tank. You will have to dig out for the concrete base, but I'd rent a bobcat for that :D . Especialy for a 30ft., 19,000 gallon, steel tank.

I'm not seriously thinking about getting one of these monsters. Atleast not until I'm a millionair!! It is just a fantisy I have and I think we all have. You know, to have the biggest tank you could ever imagine. Oh well, I guess its back to dreaming!

Bert
 

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Buck, search for cement pond issues... Besides PH issues, from the high lime content, there are issues with... Black Algae, leaking, major stress cracks, you also need a steel frame. Arg, Fiberglass would be my first choice, followed by a natural clay brick and plastic tarped pond. Use the plastic under the clay and clay brick, not on top of it. Built like the reflection pool in Washington D.C., not like a classic slope banked pond.

Eventually the plastic will rot and crack, but will still help the clay retain water levels. Just don't build this within 80 feet of a fir tree, it will suck the pond dry and destroy the liner. (Sap and plastic don't mix, same with lime in cement!)
 

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There is a black paint sold through pond places to paint and seal cement.
 

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Yea why dont u dig the pond as big as u want and hire some one to fill it in with gunite instead of conecrete..conecrete may give off certain chemicals when wet.My friend got a 6000 gallon gunite pond and they say its great!!
 

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Errr.
Im usually a Lurker..
But.. This has got me Baffled.
To say one way or another is better is absurb.
Cement sure allows for lime content to buffer the Ph..
So does Break Down of Unknown Items / Pea Gravel/ any gravel Period / Aquatic Soil / any other Soil / humm anyhoo.

Ok with that said..
I prefer the Rubber liners that are almos Inpentrable..
But i also have a Cement pond, coated with Cemeant Sealer..
Which crontols Lime Content and Ph Buffering also..

So buck,
if you wish to Go cement Check out the sealers made for them
Else go for the Rubber liners that most stores sell.. I rather enjoyed the freedom they gave, almost as much as the cement..
 

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My .02. A rubber liner (epdm) is about the simplest and quickest way to put in a pond and also about the cheapest (.54 cents a square ft). Yes, they can get holes in them, but .45 mil rubber is not easy to tear up. Me and the pond building crew I work with have put a 12,000 lb boulder on standard rubber liner with no ill effect. Ther are a few drawbacks to rubber though. It can float (water table gets to high. liner floats, pushes out fish and water), concrete won't. But, to properly seal concrete to prevent it from seeping (normal concrete unsealed can leak just due to porosity), you need to use either CIM, or Tammoseal combined with an initial layer of Eucoseal. CIM is essentially a paint on rubber, but it is really expensive. ANywho, if you have anymore question email me... it's on my website landscapesbyryan.com
 

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old thread... shop around for pond liner. Places will sell liner for as little as $.40/sq ft.

Now Bert if you are waiting til you are rich go with polyurea lining..spray on by professionals.. neatest stuff for pond...as long as you have $$

http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/articles_details.php?article_id=251&name=Newest Articles

Great ponds I've seen are those that are about 18" above ground and 4-5 feet in ground (at least for koi) as it gives a sitting area around the pond, but gives the depth koi really like (thrive vs survive again). More depth also give buffer to cold in winter (deicer still needed) and heat in summer.
 
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