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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
okay I looked and can't fine an abbreviation page.

Could someone tell me what this is?? I was going to order some stuff but got busy and now that I am ready, can't figure out what it means.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
K

Or if you have a low tech tank you need the K+ :)
ninja...
I have low tech and was trying to follow your posted recommendation, so what is K+??

I have algea that won't go away and while I added the excel today and some flourish when I highly cleaned the tank, the algea was back on the plants I just cleaned and the walls within the hour. Granted you can only pick up so much of the mess in the water, but for me the excel seems to turn my water green.
 

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How much light do you have over this low tech tank? and how long are you burning it?
What size tank?

You need the Potassium to dose with the Flourish and the Excel.
Do you have enough plant mass in the tank?

Don't dose anything and don't burn to much light for to long until you can get all the ingredients in the water that needs to be there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
K

I have a 210 gallon, I don't have enough plants in it as I pulled a lot to save them from the algea and put them in other tanks.

I have sunteks, 2 of them at 6 bulbs each 54 watts. Right now I only use 2 bulbs on each unit to drop the light level. I started this about 3 to 4 weeks ago after a black out period. So about 216 watts around 9 hours a day.

So K is any kind of potasium?? I get confused with the K K+ Ko2 etc.

I have r/o, eco and about 26 half dollar sized angels, a couple picca cats, 5 corries and 3 big angels. This is a bit overloaded but it has only been about 3 weeks. The new tank is coming and that number will be decreased a bit and angels shifted around in the new tank and the other tanks.

I got the larger wattage of lights for possible future co2. Right now I am not ready for it. With the new tank coming the two tanks will be centered under the hanging light fixtures so each get the light on one side of the tank until I save up enough to get another set.

Since you recommended no additives to keep the water soft for the angels, just the flourish for calcium and trace minerals, do you mean no flourish and no excel?? Or no potasium?? Confused
 

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Carol,
You are burning way to much light, that is why it has exploded with algae, you are going to need to either reduce the lighting more or get a pressurized C02 system.
That is a hell of a light system you have there, it puts out more than you think.
Slow things down a bit or go pressurized.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since I am only using 216 watts on the 210 gallon so I don't think 1 watt per gallon is too much. Yes if I did use all of it I would be in trouble, which is what I did do a couple months ago. Hense the problem that currently won't go away.

The lowered wattage has been running for a couple months now after the black out and several cleanings.

Under this scenerio what should I be adding to my r/o water?? Your earlier recommendation was just flourish and excel and K or ko????

Sorry to keep asking but I don't want to make an error because I don't know which K to add. There are so many of them.
 

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what kind of algae did you get? and how much plants do you have?
wow .. 210 is big.

Do you have to use RO water? RO water is pretty much without calcium, magnesium, and other trace minerals that the plants need. You have to add it back in so the plants can thrive... If not, the algae will thrive.

Your light is pretty low and you have no CO2, I don't think you need to bother adding the Macronutrients like Nitrogen, Potassium(K), Phosphate.
The plants will get that from fish poop & fish food.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
algea

I have green stuff on the walls and brownish on the plants, like a coating. I clean the plants and walls with every water change, and yes I have to use r/o. I generally do at least one change a week and if the algea is bad I do it twice. I keep after it.

I have been using seachem for planted tanks at a lower dosage to add something back, but I wanted to use something a bit cheaper and that disolves better to add back in the traces and calcium and mag.

It has been recommended to add flourish and K and no seachem, I don't know which one of the K's. Since I have algea it was said to add nothing too. I need to just have the basics until the tank stablizes which it is trying, but I don't know what is best for now

I don't have a lot of plants as I pulled them to save them the lilly types are very thin and getting holes in them as well as the swords, the eco should be helping with the basics along with the seachem, but obviously something is not working.
 

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All the K's are basically the same Carol it is Potassium, that is the K, K+, etc.
When I referred to K+ I was referring to any one of these K's
The K in KN03=Potassium+nitrate, the K in KH2P04=Potassium+Phosphate and the K in K2S04= Potassium+sulfate.

You are burning to much light if you are having to clean algae off the glass and plants that much in a low tech tank, you are not so low tech with that light as it is.
Reduce the intensity by turning off more bulbs or raise the fixture higher off the tank or add pressurized C02 and NPK, trace minerals.
Hope I didn't confuse you even more :hihi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So any of the potassium will work, I don't think I need any phosphates with this fish load.

So you think 1 watt per gallon is excessive?? That really surprizes me.

Since we moved the tank 3 feet to fit the other tank on that wall, each tank will have only half of the light set up until I can afford to cover the other side of the tanks. So with only two of the 6 bulbs turned on it will be knocked down to 108 watts on a 210 and that is only a half watt per gallon.
 

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Carol, if you are going by "the WPG rule" that is where some of your problem may be, that does not work as you are seeing, on a tank that size, the algae and plants are telling you so.
The plants and algae are your ultimate test kit, in a low tech tank with the algae issue's you are talking about, you have to much light.
I have a couple low tech tanks running for a few years now, if I added more light without C02, you can bet they would burst out with algae rather fast.
If you either reduce the light intensity, or add C02 you would see a big difference either way.
 

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K2S04, it is Potassium sulfate.
Bottom of the page.

http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/store/products.php
You could get the Barr's GH booster from this store to add back some calcium and mg for the RO water. Or you could get calcium chloride at Lowes. They sell it as an additive for dehumidifiers called DryZ Air and its little BB sized pellets of pure calcium chloride. Its a little over a dollar for about a pound which goes a long ways. And pick up some Epsom salts for the MG at a drug store. Both are much cheaper than Seachem's Equilibrium..

Re:dosing, well I have that somewhere. PM me if you need dosing. I have it in gram weights for 50 gallon RO water changes. The only problem with dosing both at the same time is you can get a harder to dissolve calcium (edit) sulfate? precipitate. So you have to dose some hours apart. I think it was dosed somewhere near 6.5 grams Mg. (epsom salts) to 16 grams Calcium per 50 gallons RO water. Or is it the other way around? Help me out Craig. Or PM Kevin C. He will know it for sure.

Or if you have hard tap water, you can mix your Ro water with a bit of your tap to get enough GH. Perhaps that's what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It is interesting to think that 1 wpg is too much on a big tank. I had a 150 going with over 2 watts per gallon with no headaches at all.

This newer tank is also tall, 29.5 inches. I do think the quality of the reflectors in the sunteks make a huge difference.

So far the algea has been held at bay for 3 days on the half lit tank. 108 watts just over one side. I planted some of the plants I received over on that side and will see as I add slowly what happens.
 
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