Thanks for doing this. I've learned a lot from reading your previous threads.
Josh's Regulator Build Thread
Well, Seeing as I've got a box full of regulators, couple bags full of parts, a camera and the internet handy, I figured I should start a thread of my progress building these things. Putting together a regulator for planted tank use has kinda become a bobby within a hobby for me. I think I have just as much fun building one of these things a I do setting up a new tank and filling it. Silly, right? lol
Anyway... I will update this thread as stuff comes in and I take photos of the processes. It might be a good learning experience for some of you too as I may do some things you haven't seen yet or aren't aware of.
Today's update:
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A bunch of stuff that needs other stuff to show up in the mail and by fedex and from ups.
This thread will sorta be a continuation of the how to build a regulator thread which has been buried in the sticky at the top of this forum.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=148509
Anyway... I will update this thread as stuff comes in and I take photos of the processes. It might be a good learning experience for some of you too as I may do some things you haven't seen yet or aren't aware of.
Today's update:
A bunch of stuff that needs other stuff to show up in the mail and by fedex and from ups.
This thread will sorta be a continuation of the how to build a regulator thread which has been buried in the sticky at the top of this forum.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=148509
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Cool, glad I could help. That's why we're here, right? To learn and help others.
That and I guess to gock at people's tanks that are nicer than our own... hahaha
3
Got bored this morning... Put a couple pieces of the all stainless Swagelok regulator I've been piecing together, together.
I ran into a little snag I thought I'd share as it's a pretty common problem with an easy solution.
Taped the parts I was going to assemble:
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The cga-320 nut went in just fine. (they always go in easy because you don't need it pointing in any specific direction.) When I tightened down the high pressure gauge, I couldn't get it tight and straight. Either I was going to have to really wrench down on it (which is not something you to do with stainless steel as you could break a thread and have to throw the whole thing away) or take it back off, clean off all the tape scraps and re-tape it, using more tape. (sometimes less if you've already got more than 4 turns on the fitting)
Before:
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After:
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That's it for now. I'm waiting on some fittings from Swagelok to get shipped. It's a funny thing about Swagelok - they take FOREVER sometimes to get you parts if they have to make them just for you.
A random note about gauges.
I love these WIKA 232.54 series stainless gauges. The quality/appearance rivals that of Swagelok. Not quite as nice though. They can be had for a lot less money anyway. If you find yourself on ebay looking for gauges for whatever reason, pay real close attention to the model numbers and not just the appearance. A slight 'one number' off difference like 232.54 and 232.53 doesn't just mean they are slightly different. They will be way off. Even if you find a set with the same matching model numbers they could be years apart from when they were produced. So you've still a got a little bit of 'chancing it' happening. Just thought I'd share.
I ran into a little snag I thought I'd share as it's a pretty common problem with an easy solution.
Taped the parts I was going to assemble:
The cga-320 nut went in just fine. (they always go in easy because you don't need it pointing in any specific direction.) When I tightened down the high pressure gauge, I couldn't get it tight and straight. Either I was going to have to really wrench down on it (which is not something you to do with stainless steel as you could break a thread and have to throw the whole thing away) or take it back off, clean off all the tape scraps and re-tape it, using more tape. (sometimes less if you've already got more than 4 turns on the fitting)
Before:
After:
That's it for now. I'm waiting on some fittings from Swagelok to get shipped. It's a funny thing about Swagelok - they take FOREVER sometimes to get you parts if they have to make them just for you.
A random note about gauges.
I love these WIKA 232.54 series stainless gauges. The quality/appearance rivals that of Swagelok. Not quite as nice though. They can be had for a lot less money anyway. If you find yourself on ebay looking for gauges for whatever reason, pay real close attention to the model numbers and not just the appearance. A slight 'one number' off difference like 232.54 and 232.53 doesn't just mean they are slightly different. They will be way off. Even if you find a set with the same matching model numbers they could be years apart from when they were produced. So you've still a got a little bit of 'chancing it' happening. Just thought I'd share.
3
I had about an hour this afternoon to mess around with a couple regs. Finished this one up:
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Pretty standard stuff. Victor VTS-250B, Burkert 6011 solenoid, Ideal 52-1-12. Nice and compact for 2-stage. A true workhorse.
I love it boxes from Swagelok show up at my door
![]()
(No idea why I posted that pic)
Then I did some test fitting with this one:
![]()
This one's a Victor HPT-500. (re-branded by BOC) All chrome and stainless. Swagelok pipe fittings, Swagelok S series metering valve w/verier handle and Clippard manifold mount mouse solenoid.
Shiny...
I'll take some pics when I put it together.
Pretty standard stuff. Victor VTS-250B, Burkert 6011 solenoid, Ideal 52-1-12. Nice and compact for 2-stage. A true workhorse.
I love it boxes from Swagelok show up at my door
(No idea why I posted that pic
)Then I did some test fitting with this one:
This one's a Victor HPT-500. (re-branded by BOC) All chrome and stainless. Swagelok pipe fittings, Swagelok S series metering valve w/verier handle and Clippard manifold mount mouse solenoid.
Shiny...
I'll take some pics when I put it together.
3
Got a few question, what the difference between the inlet CGA 320 coming with a "build" in washer?
1.The washer is thicker and seated within the nipple contrast to the normal disposable ones.
2.Can you buy any CGA 320 regardless if your regulator is "left" thread or "right" thread?
Here a pic of the CGA 320
![]()
Basically, I have a regulator that I want to fix up but the original CGA 320 has those built in washers. It also included some weird rubber washer. I'm trying to salvage this regulator.
![]()
![]()
1.The washer is thicker and seated within the nipple contrast to the normal disposable ones.
2.Can you buy any CGA 320 regardless if your regulator is "left" thread or "right" thread?
Here a pic of the CGA 320
Basically, I have a regulator that I want to fix up but the original CGA 320 has those built in washers. It also included some weird rubber washer. I'm trying to salvage this regulator.
The stems are international standard stem, not the US standard.![]()
![]()
![]()
you can put a international/BK standard CO2 connection port on the US standard CO2 tank, because the inner thread diameter(nut) is only slightly larger than the US standard CGA 320 (nut), and the threads per inch are the same.
But not a CGA 320 on a international standard CO2 tank, don't fit.
Sure expensive, the swagelok.
Have been stocking the swagelok for a while now, have enough to make multiple systems
the HPT500 look really nice, but the 1/8 female end elbow is a quit a size, you can order the 1/8 male end to female end elbow, really compact, the post body will look better.
I think I like this configuration better. I'll keep trying. (it didn't look any better w/ a street elbow...)
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Well, this one works.
![]()
I'll post how I wired this one up later. It's probably the absolute cleanest way to run power to your mouse solenoid.
I'll post how I wired this one up later. It's probably the absolute cleanest way to run power to your mouse solenoid.
I'm interested. Gonna be wiring up a mouse on Monday.Well, this one works.
![]()
I'll post how I wired this one up later. It's probably the absolute cleanest way to run power to your mouse solenoid.
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