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20L tanks, like 40G Breeder tanks, always seem to get that odd 3/4 view of the tank unless you put them on a stand that is a foot or so higher than tank stands usually are.

Going with plants rising out of the aquarium is a great option to take advantage of the unusual viewing angles that these tanks usually end up with.
 

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Many powerheads/submersible pumps have a ton of intake/outflow connection options because they are used for multiple things.

What I would suggest is to adapt a canister filter 'spray bar' to hook up to the outflow of your powerhead. Run the spray bar across the back of the tank (or from front to back on one side depending upon how you want the flow in the tank) like you would one of those old bubble wands that we all had in our tanks as children.

You can build them from PVC as well but it won't look as nice. Might be able to do the whole thing (if you already have a drill and small drill bit) for under $10 if your powerhead has an attachment that mates the size of the outflow tube to the PVC pipe (or you find some sort of cheap plumbing adapter that does the same thing). Home Depot has some PVC pre-cut to 24" I think for like $2 so in a 30" tank you wouldn't even have to mess with cutting the pipe. Just get a plug/end cap for the far end, something to attach it to the outflow on the powerhead and try to find some generic aquarium suction cup C clamp things to hold the PVC pipe to the wall of the aquarium.

This would actually be more effective for creating current in all parts of the tank as well as greatly decreasing the blast in any one location.

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If you have a powerhead with a good sponge filter pre-filter on its intake (I love the ATI Filter-Max Pre-filter ones personally and they have adapters for a ton of angles and tube diameters) and you place it on the opposite end of the tank from the HoB and find a way to spread the flow out you should be in great shape in terms of filtration and I wouldn't even think that you would need the fluval internal filter any longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Many powerheads/submersible pumps have a ton of intake/outflow connection options because they are used for multiple things.

What I would suggest is to adapt a canister filter 'spray bar' to hook up to the outflow of your powerhead. Run the spray bar across the back of the tank (or from front to back on one side depending upon how you want the flow in the tank) like you would one of those old bubble wands that we all had in our tanks as children.

You can build them from PVC as well but it won't look as nice. Might be able to do the whole thing (if you already have a drill and small drill bit) for under $10 if your powerhead has an attachment that mates the size of the outflow tube to the PVC pipe (or you find some sort of cheap plumbing adapter that does the same thing). Home Depot has some PVC pre-cut to 24" I think for like $2 so in a 30" tank you wouldn't even have to mess with cutting the pipe. Just get a plug/end cap for the far end, something to attach it to the outflow on the powerhead and try to find some generic aquarium suction cup C clamp things to hold the PVC pipe to the wall of the aquarium.

This would actually be more effective for creating current in all parts of the tank as well as greatly decreasing the blast in any one location.

--------------

If you have a powerhead with a good sponge filter pre-filter on its intake (I love the ATI Filter-Max Pre-filter ones personally and they have adapters for a ton of angles and tube diameters) and you place it on the opposite end of the tank from the HoB and find a way to spread the flow out you should be in great shape in terms of filtration and I wouldn't even think that you would need the fluval internal filter any longer.

I've got more of a circulation pump(think what you'd see in a sw set up) than a powerhead. I will look at it to see if it can be adapted much. Though now that you've brought up the idea, I could probably build a spray bar for the U3! Hmmm.... Something to consider... My biggest issue w/ the Fluval U3 is that it is difficult to hide. I considering keeping an eye out for a cheap or used canister filter. I'd like the ability to add an inline UV filter/starlizer or co2 items in the future if I wanna go that route. The other option is to go with a basic dual sponge filter...
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
20L tanks, like 40G Breeder tanks, always seem to get that odd 3/4 view of the tank unless you put them on a stand that is a foot or so higher than tank stands usually are.

Going with plants rising out of the aquarium is a great option to take advantage of the unusual viewing angles that these tanks usually end up with.
Thanks I can't wait to see how the riparium plants fill in! They are already starting to show a little new growth, which is totally awesome!

I am sure this is just the beginning of my long adventure with the whole riparium concept!
 

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The great thing about riparium plants is that they aren't limited by CO2 like submersed plants so they are probably easier and faster growing in many cases (I would imagine).
 

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Nice work planting that stuff up. Now you just have to wait for it to grow in.

Did you plant the Pilea and the Fittonia into the trellis rafts? I can't tell from these pictures. They should be planted with the stem base just right through those holes in the trellis rafts. As they grow up taller you can take cuttings with several leaf nodes each and plant back into the same trellis rafts. That way you will have lots of stems and plants covering very well.

 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Nice work planting that stuff up. Now you just have to wait for it to grow in.

Did you plant the Pilea and the Fittonia into the trellis rafts? I can't tell from these pictures. They should be planted with the stem base just right through those holes in the trellis rafts. As they grow up taller you can take cuttings with several leaf nodes each and plant back into the same trellis rafts. That way you will have lots of stems and plants covering very well.
I didn't to start with, I have since replanted them as suggested by you. I had a friend come by today, who really enjoys looking at my aquariums. She was amazed by the new riparium plants & look! I'm really pleased with it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
So I've been thinking and I have decided I am going to pull the amazon sword plant that is behind the driftwood. I am going to replace it with several Crypt. Balansae plants! I think with the right placement it could create a really cool visual effect!

I've also currently got several bunches of different java ferns sitting on a big section of the drift wood. I'm thinking that I will move them out of the tank and cover that area in sübwassertang. I want to shift the driftwood just a little to help create a better layout, by using the rule of thirds...

Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions on both of these ideas or the aquarium in general are always welcome. That includes constructive criticism!
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Johnson18's 20L PFR Riparium w/Planted HOB

I look forward to seeing updates.

What kinds of fish did you say you have in here?
Otos....there may be a few PFRs left after the water quality fiasco last week. I've got some more PFRs on the way.
 

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susswassertang can collect detritus and it can take a long time to acclimate and start growing in a new tank in my experience.

I like it, don't get me wrong, but just wanted to point out that it is one of those ones that probably won't look as good as it does in photos for you, atleast not right away.
 

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Have those riparium plants started to root in their planters yet?

If you haven't already you might like to scoop out some of that duckweed. It can look nice, but if it covers more than about 1/3 of the water's surface it can hinder gas exchange and also cast a lot of shade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Johnson18's 20L PFR Riparium w/Planted HOB

Have those riparium plants started to root in their planters yet?

If you haven't already you might like to scoop out some of that duckweed. It can look nice, but if it covers more than about 1/3 of the water's surface it can hinder gas exchange and also cast a lot of shade.
I think that they have, I am definitely seeing new growth! What is the best way to check to see if the plants have started to root?
The duckweed was mostly removed(as much as one can successfully remove duckweed) shortly after these pictures! There is still some dwarf water lettuce but not very much!
 

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I do like a little duckweed floating around, but it spread so fast.

If your riparium plants are growing you will start to see new white roots through the sides of the planters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I do like a little duckweed floating around, but it spread so fast.

If your riparium plants are growing you will start to see new white roots through the sides of the planters.
Yep, they are definitely growing! There are a couple plants that seems like they haven't faired well. A couple of the plants that were planted around the mangrove have shriveled up and died, but only two out of 5/6 plants. I took those two out today trimed the bottom which was dark and slimy and replanted the tops. The mangrove propagates have started popping a little higher out of the gravel. The Cyprus and Kelly both have new growth, looks like the Kelly is showing bloom buds which is a bit of a surprise. The outback sunset seems to be taking the longest to adapt to its new home, no new growth but its definitely not dying.
 
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