Here is my fertilizer dosing:
1.5ml ADA Brighty K daily (recommend 1ml)
1.5 ml ADA Green Brighty Step 2 daily (recommend 1ml)
1ml pfertz Nitrogen 1-2 time weekly (no does if Nitrate is 20+ ppm)
0.3ml Seachem Phosphate 1-2 time weekly
2 drops ADA ECA (Iron) twice a week (after water change)
3/4 teaspoon Seachem Equilibrium daily to maintain 6gH
CO2 1 BPS 1 hours before light on, and 1 hr before light off, ADA drop checker light green at 30 ppm
Light on 7 hours every day.
2 Water Change each week: 30% on Wed & 40% on Sun
Water tested by API test kits:
pH: 7.6 (in the morning before CO2 injection)
pH: 6.8 (at middle of photo period with CO2 on)
Fish: 6 Emerald tetra, 1 Bristlenose
Shrimp: 4 Amano
Feed fish every 2nd day
I use Excel on this algae, it turn white, but it keep comes back.
in my own battle against BBA the consensus is that you need to keep using Excel and keep your CO2 up to keep BBA at a minimum. Sounds as though you have to live with some of it and can't actually eleminate it completely.
Spot treat and kill what you can with excel than turn the co2 way up over the course of a few days. As high as you can without a negative reaction from your inhabitants. Worked for me many times. Always found it to appear when co2 wasn't circulating throughout the tank well. Always seems to be a co2 issue when it appears
I've had good luck trimming off highly affected leaves with BBA and then dosing 2ml/gallon of hydrogen peroxide. I turn off my canister but keep running my power head, for a half hour or so and then do my normal 50% water change. In a day or two any BBA I missed or couldn't see turns bright red and dies off. I've done this both with and without following up dosing excel and had good results (1-2 punch method).