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Is this all I need for co2?

1971 17
Hey everyone, I have now ordered some stuff for pressurized co2. I don't need to be told that I should have gotten something else or that it isn't good quality, I just want to know if I will be able to now add co2 to my tank. I am getting an adapter for paintball tanks so I can feel more comfortable about getting refills. Here is what I have.

Regulator- http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticL..._Aquariums-AquaticLife-AK01217-FICORE-vi.html

Paintball Adapter- http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticL...ccessories-AquaticLife-AK01190-FICOCA-vi.html

Paintball Tank- http://www.amazon.com/Pure-Energy-2...2WAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327514604&sr=8-1

Do I need anything else?
Do I need to make a bubble counter?
Can I use one of those pH disk to moniter co2?

For now I am going to use my silicone tubing and an airstone to diffuse co2 for now. I know it isn't the most efficient but it will have to do. I will get a glass diffuser and co2 tubing soon though. I also bought 2 of the paintball tanks so I can have them both filled.

I am excited :bounce:
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That's pretty much what i have. I would get a bubble counter to keep track of BPS once you dial in how much co2 you need in your tank. You might want to look into a drop checker too to measure co2.
 

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Plant Clown
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I wouldn't bother with a paintbally cylinder on a 29g. With a solenoid, I'd guess you'll need to refill every 4-6 weeks.

If space is a really huge issue, what you've picked out is a pretty good option.

If space isn't such a huge issue, what you've picked out will cost $200+, and you can buy a Milwaukee/Aquatek/Azoo regulator and 5lb cylinder for $120-180. What you have linked is the new model of the AquaticLife regulator. I haven't heard much about its quality, but I'm guessing that since the older version seems to be identical (though painted) to an Aquatek regulator, the quality is about the same. Again, though, that's a guess.

Anyway, try:
http://www.aquabuys.com/p/mi_co2_regulator.html
Evilbay #280801381428

That'll be $160 or less, and you can certainly find both the regulator and 5lb cylinder cheaper. And the Aquatek regulator is even cheaper.

Mind you, none of the regulators either of us has mentioned has been very high quality. But IMO they're good starter regs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know I will have to refill a lot but all I am wanting to know is will I get the same results in my aquarium as I would for a more expensive full size setup. I am planning on getting 3 or 4 more 20oz tanks and keep them stocked up. I want something small and I want something that is easy to get refilled. I have had issues finding a place that would fill a full size tank around here so I feel a lot more comfortable with the paintball because paintball shops are everywhere. I don't understand why people are so anti-paintball co2. I don't have a stand either so it is going to be sitting out next to the aquarium.
 

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I know I will have to refill a lot but all I am wanting to know is will I get the same results in my aquarium as I would for a more expensive full size setup. I am planning on getting 3 or 4 more 20oz tanks and keep them stocked up. I want something small and I want something that is easy to get refilled. I have had issues finding a place that would fill a full size tank around here so I feel a lot more comfortable with the paintball because paintball shops are everywhere. I don't understand why people are so anti-paintball co2. I don't have a stand either so it is going to be sitting out next to the aquarium.
I have the same issue here. Heck, even Walmart sells CO2 refills.
 

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Most of us are anti paintball because of the continuous refills involved. Throw a 5# on there and it's ~6 months before you refill. And thats for a cylinder thats 2 inches larger in diameter and 7 inches taller. And has a built in shut off.

And there are Co2 suppliers in every city, unless it's very small. Topeka should have at least one welding supply shop. http://www.yellowpages.com/topeka-ks/welding-equipment-supply
 

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Plant Clown
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I do advise getting some type of bubble counter - it doesn't matter what type, as you'll only be able to use your own system to compare it to.

A digital pH checker with probe would be useful, but an analog test of some sort would only be a very vague indicator. In addition, getting an accurate CO2 reading from the pH/KH chart is difficult, because it doesn't take into account anything you have in the tank that could be buffering either of those readings. Bascially, I'm saying that spending $10-15 for a drop checker and 4dKH solution will be the easiest way to go.

Additionally, I'd suggest a good check valve, or several cheap ones, all used together. You want to avoid water flowing back into the needle valve and solenoid at all costs.
 

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Does anybody know how long a 20oz paintball tank would last on a 29g tank?
How many BPS should I run it?
I'm running at about 1 bubble every 6 seconds on my 40 breeder. My current 20 oz cylinder has lasted a long time (I've lost track). I was down to 1 bubble every 10 seconds, but I switched diffusion methods from an in-tank reactor to simply bubbling the CO2 into the intake of my Filstar XP2.

Depending on your diffusion method, it could last a very long time. However, it you simply bubble the CO2 into your tank with a glass diffuser, the cylinder will not last very long.
 

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I do about 1 BPS on my 37 gallon and it lasts me about 4 months. It really depends on how much CO2 you want to add to the tank. I have seen significant improvement with just 1 BPS so I don't bother turning it up or using a drop checker.
 

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I used to get at least 4 weeks out of this setup on a 46 gallon aquarium. My bubble count was high enough to make it difficult to count. I had 2 20 OZ and 1 24 OZ paintball cylinder. When I got to the third one, I'd get the other two filled. I only did this because of space constraints. Since I switched to a larger tank and stand, I also switched to a 5 lb cylinder.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/h_bosman/4379697140/
 

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If you do use an inline bubble counter, I advice using two check valves, one on either side of the bubble counter. Sometimes when the solenoid would shut off, water from the bubble counter would get in the tube leading to the solenoid.
 
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