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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a portable RO unit (Crystal Quest® Reverse Osmosis bottom of page). It takes the Gh from 17 to 1 but the alkalinity goes from 18 to 12. When I test bottled RO water with the same test kit, the Kh is 0. If this is the best I can expect from this device, are there any other ways to lower the Kh?
 

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Most r/o can reduce ppm 90% if you add di resins then you can reduce that even lower. If the membrane has not been seated properly you will get less reduction then you should. It also depends on what kind of membrane you have. I forget the names but the one you must protect from chlorine has a higher reduction rate of the two types. I am sure someone with more knowledge can jump in with the names.

What is your ppms before and after r/o???

How many pre-filters do you have?? Do you have a di after the r/o

Did you put it together or was it pre assembled??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 3 filters (purchased - not home assembled) are described in detail at the website referenced in the first post. Am not sure of the "ppm" as my test measures drops, but I understand there is a multiplier for those which makes it the same ratio. It starts at 18 and ends up 12 after the filters. Don't know what "di" is. Could you elaborate on that. Also water is well water with no chlorine issues. Thanks,
 

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I am not an expert but I have my own system and all r/o's and membranes are not equal. That is why I was asking. I wouldn't have enough expertise to read though the data on your machine to say what is up.

Di is a resin that on some machines or set ups does further exchange and reduces the ppm's even lower.

The test kits are hard to get an accurate reading when ion's have been exchanged. Just softening as your water softner does to reduce generally will add more ppm's by a slight bit but helps to condition the water so your r/o membrane has an easier time reducing the rest.

I have a well at the house we are selling and beleive me I have tested clorine on and off in that well. I have dual carbon filters before the r/o and it takes care of the chlorine, my water after just the filters and r/o comes out around 40ppm which in the test kits is maybe 1 to 2 kh and no general hardness.

My starting ppm is over 800 so I think your unit is not functioning properly or it isn't designed to handle the situation. If I ran a di cartridge also I could get my water down to 10ppm or less.
 

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I read through the literture and you should call the manufactorer you should have a betterr result. Maybe the membrane was not installed correctly from the factory or one of the pre filters or lines are mixed up.
 
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