Yes it is possible. You will just have to split the co2 after the regulator. You will have to get some hardware that will split to two lines.
Is it possible to use a single co2 regulator for several tanks?
If I want to set up several small aquascapes throughout the house, is there a way to regulate a single tank to 3 or 4 needle valves that all come on at the same time? All with their own bubble counters of course.
Is there a way to do this correctly? I would rather buy one good regulator than 3 not so good ones.
Running the lines through the floor isn't that big of a deal for me, it's just whether or not this is a smart way or stupid way of going about things.
I want to get more into aquascaping, and I feel that with 3 or 4 <10g tanks there will be more ways of exploring that side of the hobby.
Thanks for your advice!
Is there a way to do this correctly? I would rather buy one good regulator than 3 not so good ones.
Running the lines through the floor isn't that big of a deal for me, it's just whether or not this is a smart way or stupid way of going about things.
I want to get more into aquascaping, and I feel that with 3 or 4 <10g tanks there will be more ways of exploring that side of the hobby.
Thanks for your advice!
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
You need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...&field-keywords=AQUATEK+SplitPro+CO2+Splitter
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...&field-keywords=AQUATEK+SplitPro+CO2+Splitter
Awesome y'all. Thanks for the info!
One regulator, but you'll need individual needle valves, bubble counters and solenoids (You could do one solenoid if everything turns on and off at the same time.
Yep. The plan will probably be to turn the co2 on all at the same time with one solenoid. I would imagine that I would want to hook up bubble counters right there at the co2 can, so I don't need a friend and a walkie talkie to adjust it. =POne regulator, but you'll need individual needle valves, bubble counters and solenoids (You could do one solenoid if everything turns on and off at the same time.
You can get the splitter with built-in bubble counters as well. Make sure the splitter is compatible with what you have.
Like the others have said, this is absolutely possible. I actually do this myself to get co2 into my three tanks, although I don't use bubble counters (anymore) and rely on drop checkers and observing my fish to tune the co2.
My set up is a 20lb tank>Matheson 3122A-N/I dual stage regulator>a single Burkert solenoid 00463938 with 008409 plug connection to a timer> then three Fabco NV-55-18 needle valves, one for each aquarium. I got the regulator as new-old stock on evilbay for a great deal after trying to modify my co2art regulator to have the output be split; I've never seen threads get damaged while unscrewing something from them, but I swear that's what happened to the aluminum body when I tried to take the original fitting off.
My diffusion methods are a cerges reactor and two standard diffusers, one fluval brand and the other is a do aqua. I did have trouble with trying to run an atomizer diffuser I bought from Aqua Forest Aquarium, although I don't think that was so much a fault with my set up as it started to bubble out of the seam of the cap. That being said, it's easier to tune the co2 when all the injections methods you are using are relatively similar in operating pressure, so I'd recommend either all high or low pressure methods. I'd also recommend setting up the co2 for any new tank on a weekend that you'll be home so that you can check your tanks every couple hours to make sure you don't gas the fish in them. Bubble counters or not.
The reasons I don't run bubble counters are if you get one with a built in check valve it's only a matter of time before that fails, and if you're running them directly after your regulator without a back up checkvalve between them, you're now risking that nice regulator. Even if you do have a backup in between it's not clear when you start relying on it and still run the risk of that failing and ruining your nice regulator. Bubble counters are also a weak link and in my opinion and too much of a hassle to outweigh their perceived benefits. If you're dead set on running a bubble counter I urge you to put it close to your tank, after a check valve and to only put water in it. I've ran mineral oil in one, like some suggest, and accidentally had the pressure too high which blew all the mineral oil into my tank, not horrible, but a pain to clean up. Took two rolls of paper towels to soak up the oil slick. I'll admit that was an operator error on my part. So I recommend you run your setups sans bubble counters and just make sure you have check valves at the end of each line close to your tanks in an easy location to inspect for failure.
Lastly, beware of multiple tank syndrome. I have three tanks, a 17, 10 and 5 gallon, all set up within a year. And I'm going to upgrade the 17 to a 112 within a week. :|
My set up is a 20lb tank>Matheson 3122A-N/I dual stage regulator>a single Burkert solenoid 00463938 with 008409 plug connection to a timer> then three Fabco NV-55-18 needle valves, one for each aquarium. I got the regulator as new-old stock on evilbay for a great deal after trying to modify my co2art regulator to have the output be split; I've never seen threads get damaged while unscrewing something from them, but I swear that's what happened to the aluminum body when I tried to take the original fitting off.
My diffusion methods are a cerges reactor and two standard diffusers, one fluval brand and the other is a do aqua. I did have trouble with trying to run an atomizer diffuser I bought from Aqua Forest Aquarium, although I don't think that was so much a fault with my set up as it started to bubble out of the seam of the cap. That being said, it's easier to tune the co2 when all the injections methods you are using are relatively similar in operating pressure, so I'd recommend either all high or low pressure methods. I'd also recommend setting up the co2 for any new tank on a weekend that you'll be home so that you can check your tanks every couple hours to make sure you don't gas the fish in them. Bubble counters or not.
The reasons I don't run bubble counters are if you get one with a built in check valve it's only a matter of time before that fails, and if you're running them directly after your regulator without a back up checkvalve between them, you're now risking that nice regulator. Even if you do have a backup in between it's not clear when you start relying on it and still run the risk of that failing and ruining your nice regulator. Bubble counters are also a weak link and in my opinion and too much of a hassle to outweigh their perceived benefits. If you're dead set on running a bubble counter I urge you to put it close to your tank, after a check valve and to only put water in it. I've ran mineral oil in one, like some suggest, and accidentally had the pressure too high which blew all the mineral oil into my tank, not horrible, but a pain to clean up. Took two rolls of paper towels to soak up the oil slick. I'll admit that was an operator error on my part. So I recommend you run your setups sans bubble counters and just make sure you have check valves at the end of each line close to your tanks in an easy location to inspect for failure.
Lastly, beware of multiple tank syndrome. I have three tanks, a 17, 10 and 5 gallon, all set up within a year. And I'm going to upgrade the 17 to a 112 within a week. :|
Multiple tank syndrome is real :joy:
I had an oceanic 75g and 135g. Both were planted/pressurized co2/high light/liquid ferts before I forced myself to deconstruct the 75g and "downsize".
I had an oceanic 75g and 135g. Both were planted/pressurized co2/high light/liquid ferts before I forced myself to deconstruct the 75g and "downsize".
Thanks for this advice. Is there a good write up somewhere of how to build your own regulator? I want to go dual stage, and actually "building" the thing should be simple (I've worked with such things before) but I can't seem to find out much info on what decent parts are or which needle valves and solenoids are good.
I don't have any tanks set up at the moment and I already have mts. I've taken a year and a half off, and I only own a 40b that's an emersed setup. I'm going to get it fired up and running before I do anything else, but the plan is to get some nice smaller rimless tanks and really work on aquascaping with them.
I actually have a single stage regulator with a built in solenoid, but I don't really trust it and will probably sell it locally.
I'll keep your bubble counter advice in mind, I wasn't ever planning on mounting them to the rig. I will probably wall mount them in the closet, well below the regulator. From there they will travel under the floor to the tanks, though I do suppose I should have a check valve on them at the tanks too. Maybe what you were saying makes more sense. Livestock isn't my big priority as I will likely start all my stuff with the dsm anyway, and then gas the heck out of the tank while they acclimate.
Hah. Well I guess I should have read the 1st thing in the faq.
I don't have any tanks set up at the moment and I already have mts. I've taken a year and a half off, and I only own a 40b that's an emersed setup. I'm going to get it fired up and running before I do anything else, but the plan is to get some nice smaller rimless tanks and really work on aquascaping with them.
I actually have a single stage regulator with a built in solenoid, but I don't really trust it and will probably sell it locally.
I'll keep your bubble counter advice in mind, I wasn't ever planning on mounting them to the rig. I will probably wall mount them in the closet, well below the regulator. From there they will travel under the floor to the tanks, though I do suppose I should have a check valve on them at the tanks too. Maybe what you were saying makes more sense. Livestock isn't my big priority as I will likely start all my stuff with the dsm anyway, and then gas the heck out of the tank while they acclimate.
Bump:Like the others have said, this is absolutely possible. I actually do this myself to get co2 into my three tanks, although I don't use bubble counters (anymore) and rely on drop checkers and observing my fish to tune the co2.
My set up is a 20lb tank>Matheson 3122A-N/I dual stage regulator>a single Burkert solenoid 00463938 with 008409 plug connection to a timer> then three Fabco NV-55-18 needle valves, one for each aquarium. I got the regulator as new-old stock on evilbay for a great deal after trying to modify my co2art regulator to have the output be split; I've never seen threads get damaged while unscrewing something from them, but I swear that's what happened to the aluminum body when I tried to take the original fitting off.
My diffusion methods are a cerges reactor and two standard diffusers, one fluval brand and the other is a do aqua. I did have trouble with trying to run an atomizer diffuser I bought from Aqua Forest Aquarium, although I don't think that was so much a fault with my set up as it started to bubble out of the seam of the cap. That being said, it's easier to tune the co2 when all the injections methods you are using are relatively similar in operating pressure, so I'd recommend either all high or low pressure methods. I'd also recommend setting up the co2 for any new tank on a weekend that you'll be home so that you can check your tanks every couple hours to make sure you don't gas the fish in them. Bubble counters or not.
The reasons I don't run bubble counters are if you get one with a built in check valve it's only a matter of time before that fails, and if you're running them directly after your regulator without a back up checkvalve between them, you're now risking that nice regulator. Even if you do have a backup in between it's not clear when you start relying on it and still run the risk of that failing and ruining your nice regulator. Bubble counters are also a weak link and in my opinion and too much of a hassle to outweigh their perceived benefits. If you're dead set on running a bubble counter I urge you to put it close to your tank, after a check valve and to only put water in it. I've ran mineral oil in one, like some suggest, and accidentally had the pressure too high which blew all the mineral oil into my tank, not horrible, but a pain to clean up. Took two rolls of paper towels to soak up the oil slick. I'll admit that was an operator error on my part. So I recommend you run your setups sans bubble counters and just make sure you have check valves at the end of each line close to your tanks in an easy location to inspect for failure.
Lastly, beware of multiple tank syndrome. I have three tanks, a 17, 10 and 5 gallon, all set up within a year. And I'm going to upgrade the 17 to a 112 within a week. :|
All mine should be smaller than that. I'm thinking 90cm max. It's an old house with old floors, and only buying rimless tanks can definitely keep the size of the tank down, which is the plan.Multiple tank syndrome is real :joy:
I had an oceanic 75g and 135g. Both were planted/pressurized co2/high light/liquid ferts before I forced myself to deconstruct the 75g and "downsize".
Hah. Well I guess I should have read the 1st thing in the faq.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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