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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right now I got a 29g..I have one finnex stingray already on it..it seems like it does an alright pretty good job but I was wondering is it worth it to get another? Or should I go with a cheap beamswork? I found a couple for 25 to 30 bucks..but it seems a lot wider and thicker...then my super slim stingray..is it worth it? Or is it a waste of money? Any thoughts?? Not really wanting to buy a 24/7 or Ray 2 since I rather buy one of those when I get a bigger tank down the road...
 

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Right now I got a 29g..I have one finnex stingray already on it..it seems like it does an alright pretty good job but I was wondering is it worth it to get another? Or should I go with a cheap beamswork? I found a couple for 25 to 30 bucks..but it seems a lot wider and thicker...then my super slim stingray..is it worth it? Or is it a waste of money? Any thoughts?? Not really wanting to buy a 24/7 or Ray 2 since I rather buy one of those when I get a bigger tank down the road...
LED Aquarium Lighting Freshwater Bright
 

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It depends on your plants I believe, people can correct me if I am wrong, but certain plants require certain lighting intensity. If you have too high of light intensity, plants will die off given the amount of light in your tank (I know it sounds weird, but it sounds too true to be false).

Also, more lights you have, if not balanced by CO2, there will be a huge algae bloom as well. As algae can thrive off light.
 

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It depends on your plants I believe, people can correct me if I am wrong, but certain plants require certain lighting intensity. If you have too high of light intensity, plants will die off given the amount of light in your tank (I know it sounds weird, but it sounds too true to be false).

Also, more lights you have, if not balanced by CO2, there will be a huge algae bloom as well. As algae can thrive off light.
Too much light won't typically result in killing of the plants, instead they will respond by increasing use of carbon and macro/micro nutrients corresponding to the light level or until one or more nutrients become deficient, which results in slow/problematic/no growth.

High light without a corresponding level and balance in nutrients would certainly contribute to an algae bloom though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Too much light won't typically result in killing of the plants, instead they will respond by increasing use of carbon and macro/micro nutrients corresponding to the light level or until one or more nutrients become deficient, which results in slow/problematic/no growth.

High light without a corresponding level and balance in nutrients would certainly contribute to an algae bloom though.
well its not a problem to add ferts..but wouldn't that mean I need to add co2 then? would I just be able to get a way with having frog bit to cover some of the excess lighting of the 2 lightbar? and still add a little ferts to help balance it out...I know that sounds contradicting since I want more light in the tank..
 

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well its not a problem to add ferts..but wouldn't that mean I need to add co2 then? would I just be able to get a way with having frog bit to cover some of the excess lighting of the 2 lightbar? and still add a little ferts to help balance it out...I know that sounds contradicting since I want more light in the tank..
Yep, since the light is high, it tells the plants to get to growing, so the next main thing the plants will look for is CO2, which will need to be increased in order to utilize macro/micro nutrients. Are you injecting CO2 or plan to? Or will you be dosing Excel? You don't mention how you plan on stocking the tank (lots of plants, fish, inverts, etc.).

There are multiple ways to reduce the light: raise the light higher, add a screen underneath, floating plants, decrease the time period the lights are running, remove a bulb, etc.

From reading the forums, anchoring the light output first is a good idea, because it is easiest to keep consistent/controlled. While some people say Watts Per Gallon is not a great measure, others still use it, and I feel it's a decent rough estimate to understand yourself where you fall out on low/moderate/high light. How many WPG are you currently running, or plan to run? I'm not sure, but I believe < 1.5 WPG is considered low, 1.5-3 is moderate and 3-5+ is high. Some of the experts on this forum such as Tom Barr believe that people have a tendency to over-light their tank, which leads to a cascading series of problems. I subscribe to that thinking and am testing out how much growth I can sustain for my setup at 1.4WPG (I calculate by actual water volume not tank size).

From there, you would adjust CO2, then nitrate (N), phosphorous/phosphate (P), potassium (K) nutrients, then trace. This is the process I'm undergoing myself, and so far decent results, though it takes some patience to only make one small adjustment and then observe over 1-2 weeks to see what changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well its not a problem to add ferts..but wouldn't that mean I need to add co2 then? would I just be able to get a way with having frog bit to cover some of the excess lighting of the 2 lightbar? and still add a little ferts to help balance it out...I know that sounds contradicting since I want more light in the tank..
Yep, since the light is high, it tells the plants to get to growing, so the next main thing the plants will look for is CO2, which will need to be increased in order to utilize macro/micro nutrients. Are you injecting CO2 or plan to? Or will you be dosing Excel? You don't mention how you plan on stocking the tank (lots of plants, fish, inverts, etc.).

There are multiple ways to reduce the light: raise the light higher, add a screen underneath, floating plants, decrease the time period the lights are running, remove a bulb, etc.

From reading the forums, anchoring the light output first is a good idea, because it is easiest to keep consistent/controlled. While some people say Watts Per Gallon is not a great measure, others still use it, and I feel it's a decent rough estimate to understand yourself where you fall out on low/moderate/high light. How many WPG are you currently running, or plan to run? I'm not sure, but I believe < 1.5 WPG is considered low, 1.5-3 is moderate and 3-5+ is high. Some of the experts on this forum such as Tom Barr believe that people have a tendency to over-light their tank, which leads to a cascading series of problems. I subscribe to that thinking and am testing out how much growth I can sustain for my setup at 1.4WPG (I calculate by actual water volume not tank size).

From there, you would adjust CO2, then nitrate (N), phosphorous/phosphate (P), potassium (K) nutrients, then trace. This is the process I'm undergoing myself, and so far decent results, though it takes some patience to only make one small adjustment and then observe over 1-2 weeks to see what changes.

Well I already have the tank well stocked..I have an ok mass of plants..but I definitely need more to fill areas but also balance out the fish waste...more repens are coming in to really get my carpet underway..since I have maybe 7 or stems currently with25+ in route...I do not have co2..but I honestly feel like I should tank the plunge and get a paintball co2 setup.."tax return right around the corner hahaha"...I already have dry ferts from a seller on this forum..not dosing since it would be excess to the tank and cause problems instead of help..
 

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Yes please do I would love to see it!!
Here ya go just took some current picts for ya.

The only issue is that single strand of Cabomba. It has been sitting like that for a month. Doesn't die, doesn't grow....but it finally looks like it might be at the point that it is going to take off. It is getting enough leaf mass that it might go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here ya go just took some current picts for ya.

The only issue is that single strand of Cabomba. It has been sitting like that for a month. Doesn't die, doesn't grow....but it finally looks like it might be at the point that it is going to take off. It is getting enough leaf mass that it might go!

awesome your tank looks beautiful!! I was starting a repens carpet too!! I definitely need some more plants in my tank which I wouldn't mind lol..are you injecting co2 in that tank? but this makes me twice as sure that I should grab a 2nd light
 

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If you're new to the hobby, I'd highly recommend sticking with easier plants and lower light till you get some experience.

When you increase light everything becomes a bit more volatile, you don't just need to increase dosing and add CO2, you need to balance them well. This is done by many people on the forums by using the EI dosing method. It uses a lot more ferts and a regular 50% water change.

What would your reason for WANTING more light be? If it's because you want faster growth or plants that need more light, then that's good. But if you just think it looks better with more light, I'd seriously reconsider.
 

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If you're new to the hobby, I'd highly recommend sticking with easier plants and lower light till you get some experience.

When you increase light everything becomes a bit more volatile, you don't just need to increase dosing and add CO2, you need to balance them well. This is done by many people on the forums by using the EI dosing method. It uses a lot more ferts and a regular 50% water change.

What would your reason for WANTING more light be? If it's because you want faster growth or plants that need more light, then that's good. But if you just think it looks better with more light, I'd seriously reconsider.
Some good advice in there!
This tank walks a very fine line between looking good and a hair algae farm!!

Yes, CO2 injection and modified EI regiment. I dose heavy with the N and cut back on P and K. I dose Iron every other day and trace elements twice a week.
6ml of dilute Metricide everyday

50% water changes every Sunday.

I run the lights 3 hours on, off all midday and then on 4hrs in the evening.

I can get algae on the top of the driftwood at times too...

Lastly, the tank is dirted. I get some pretty intense growth rates at times!
 

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Here ya go just took some current picts for ya.

The only issue is that single strand of Cabomba. It has been sitting like that for a month. Doesn't die, doesn't grow....but it finally looks like it might be at the point that it is going to take off. It is getting enough leaf mass that it might go!
Looks awesome great job! What is the schooling fish with the ornate dorsal fin called?
 

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So, Patfat, if you want to do the kinds of things Ichy does on a nearly religious level (I mean really, any high tech tank NEEDS to be kept up with on a very regular basis or things fall apart). Then by all means, get another light. If you don't, then don't get another light.

As a wise man once said, With great light comes great responsibility. :p
 

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Looks awesome great job! What is the schooling fish with the ornate dorsal fin called?
Hyphessobrycon rosaceus, Rosy tetra, white finned rosy tetra.
They are a nice fish, fun to watch, they will tip on their sides to bluff each other...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you're new to the hobby, I'd highly recommend sticking with easier plants and lower light till you get some experience.

When you increase light everything becomes a bit more volatile, you don't just need to increase dosing and add CO2, you need to balance them well. This is done by many people on the forums by using the EI dosing method. It uses a lot more ferts and a regular 50% water change.

What would your reason for WANTING more light be? If it's because you want faster growth or plants that need more light, then that's good. But if you just think it looks better with more light, I'd seriously reconsider.
Some good advice in there!
This tank walks a very fine line between looking good and a hair algae farm!!

Yes, CO2 injection and modified EI regiment. I dose heavy with the N and cut back on P and K. I dose Iron every other day and trace elements twice a week.
6ml of dilute Metricide everyday

50% water changes every Sunday.

I run the lights 3 hours on, off all midday and then on 4hrs in the evening.

I can get algae on the top of the driftwood at times too...

Lastly, the tank is dirted. I get some pretty intense growth rates at times!
If you're new to the hobby, I'd highly recommend sticking with easier plants and lower light till you get some experience.

When you increase light everything becomes a bit more volatile, you don't just need to increase dosing and add CO2, you need to balance them well. This is done by many people on the forums by using the EI dosing method. It uses a lot more ferts and a regular 50% water change.

What would your reason for WANTING more light be? If it's because you want faster growth or plants that need more light, then that's good. But if you just think it looks better with more light, I'd seriously reconsider.

Damn I really hate that both of you are really right on this subject right now!! But sighh even though I think I might have enough time to keep up with the high-tech tank...I'm probably just over my head at the moment.. Thank you all for your info and advice maybe later down the road when I have more time and more money I'll be able to keep up with say high-tech tank. Real quick since you're both actively on this forum any suggestions about tu Real quick since you're both actively on this forum any suggestions about toxicity with plants ??,
 

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Not sure what you're asking.
I'll take a few shots in the dark.
1) Don't eat aquatic plants, even those endorsed by some people online aren't good for you in larger quantities and they really don't taste all that great.
2) If a fish eats a plant, I've never heard of them getting poisoned by it, so it's not a huge concern in my mind.
3) if you mean a plant experiencing toxicity from certain fertilizers, that tends to be the result of either dosing too much fertilizer, or, dosing a fair bit but not doing water changes as most heavy-dosing regimines call for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not sure what you're asking.
I'll take a few shots in the dark.
1) Don't eat aquatic plants, even those endorsed by some people online aren't good for you in larger quantities and they really don't taste all that great.
2) If a fish eats a plant, I've never heard of them getting poisoned by it, so it's not a huge concern in my mind.
3) if you mean a plant experiencing toxicity from certain fertilizers, that tends to be the result of either dosing too much fertilizer, or, dosing a fair bit but not doing water changes as most heavy-dosing regimines call for.

Hahahaha hilarious!!!! Sorry I wasn't more clear I meant plants showing signs of toxicity...I do a water change every weekend and I've kept up on it...some times it falls on a Saturday others on a Sunday...no matter what I have kept up on those..i think I might have over dose on the dry ferts on accident..i think it was csm+b that did it...I've skimmed through the csm+b toxicity post...but any suggestions? As in should I throw in more easy fast low light plants with included 30% or 50% water changes?
 
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