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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a couple requests to further explain what I was talking about in prior threads, and even though this idea isn't particular unique or new in any real way, I figured it would still be helpful to show others what I've been talking about.



Here we see a Coralife Tee connector, it's technically called the "Coralife Turbo-Twist Hose Locking 5/8" T Connector" and can be bought at Big Al's for $3.49, part #7932. You'll also see a "Two Littles Fishes" ball valve, part #23492 at Big Al's. The clear tubing is ordinary hardware store stuff, and the green is coming from my Eheim 2028. All of this is on the outflow side.

When I want to drain the tank I open the ball valve here, the filter will then push water more or less half through the clear tubing and half back into the aquarium. Another ball valve on the Eheim tubing would allow one to divert water fully, but I'm not in that much of a hurry.



Here we see my dirty bathroom sink, but more importantly the other end of the clear hardware store hose. There's the standard Python venturi, another TLF ball valve, and a 'spare parts' Python hose connector.

To drain water, this ball valve is also opened, along with opening up the Python Venturi. When it comes to refilling, with that venturi opened, but the ball valve shut, I can run water through the venturi checking for temp with my instant thermometer. Whenever water temp is just right, I can then open the ball valve and shut the venturi to send water through the hose.



Here's another shot of the Eheim outflow setup. Prior to doing the above, where I send water back in, I pull back on the Eheim's double tap connector setup, so as to shut water flow off. I then flip the switch to turn the filter off too. This ensures that the water isn't fighting with the filter, and that no untreated tap water enters the filter either. My inline heater is 'on the way' from this setup to the next photo. I, also, of course, put my 2 capfuls of Prime into the aquarium.



Here we go, while I go make my sandwich for lunch, water flows back into the aquarium, passing through the inline heater just in case the water temp dropped a little on the way.

Once the tank is refilled, I close the ball valves, coil the clear hose up and set it behind the aquarium, and turn the 2028 back on.

Questions?
 

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After checking out your autodoser I had to RE-check this post again. I read it the other day and have been thinking about trying this on my 90. You've tweaked my intrest in both of your projects. Thanks for taking the time and effort in sharing this with us. You have a knack for making and explaining things simple and easy that is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I do try to keep things elegant, simple as possible, but not so simple as to be inelegant... I didn't see the need for some of the more exotic methods of water change, and I figure anyone can benefit from this style of system. In the summer I can connect a long hose to the system and drain into my outside reservoir for watering plants.
 

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This looks like a really easy way to do water changes. One question: Couldn't you not equalize the temp. and just let it pass through the heater?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, that's not a method I'd want to try, my home's water heater is infinitely more efficient at heating the water than my Hydor. I would be too concerned that very cold water would just become cool water and still not the 76 degrees I want.
 

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That does make sense that it would not warm it up enough. Wouldn't using warm water be dangerous if you have copper pipes?
 

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all i need is the white attachment in Lee's version...where could i find one? u think they got them at say Ace Hardware or Home Depot?
 

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Very cool idea. ;) I may have to work these items into the pile-o-parts I'm accumulating for a 75g I have in the works.
It could work great for me as all I would have to do is just run the tubing through the wall behind where my tank will be and into the laundry room sink. I could always just tuck the venturi and hose slack under the sink to be hopefully g/f approved...lol

Thanks for taking the time to do a write up as well as adding the part #'s. :proud:
 

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ah, sorry I missed that.. Thought you have a house filter that takes care of the chlorine.. Prime might be cheaper though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh, yes, much less expensive than replacing carbon blocks or the hassle of using RO, especially considering my tap water has a TDS that would make many RO units envious. It helps to purchase prime in 2L jugs when on sale too.
 
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