Not sure it will solve the entire problem but yes, this will help a lot.
Not sure it will solve the entire problem but yes, this will help a lot.would some back pressure, via an adjustable valve on the output side of the reactor help the CO2 dissolve in the water?
Thanks - adding some backpressure will probably be my next attempt to improve the dissolving of CO2.Not sure it will solve the entire problem but yes, this will help a lot.
The reactor is 20" long. The CO2 buildup eventually resolves itself after the solenoid (and light) shuts off for the night - which means that I'm probably dosing (undissolved) CO2 for longer than necessary.Possible reactor is too short for the flow so you get the buildup at the top.
Thanks, I see your point. However, the reactor output (and the cannister filter) is on the floor. So, unfortunately, I can't add additional pressure by lowering any further.Another possible issue might be your mounting location of the reactor. Ideally you would want the output of the reactor (the bottom) to be as low as possible - preferably just as low as the bottom of the canister filter. What this does is use the water column head pressure to it's fullest extent to increase the pressure inside the reactor to squeeze the co2 bubbles (but does not slow down canister flow). Putting a valve on the output of the reactor also adds pressure to the inside of the reactor (same effect) but does slow down your flow.
Ok, these are interesting points - thank you..... Some things that I see may happen without you thinking about them. One is that the point where the CO2 enters probably changed and it is probably not getting to the drop check in the same way.
Things I would check are how the water circulates and where the two items are located. If the drop check was reading near the former point like maybe above it and it is now across the tank and the CO2 is coming in at the top like through a spraybar, the reading will be different. You may find running the return filter flow down to near the bottom will get more CO to stay in the water.
I no longer use spraybars with CO2 as it blows too much back into the air. I use powerheads to maintain surface movement.
....When I think of building pressure in a reactor, I think of trying to blow up an air mattress with a hole in it!
Ok, I have just started an experiment to test an increase in back pressure. I have used a vise-clamp to pinch/flatten the tubing after the reactor. This is a very unscientific study, since I have no way to know the volume reduction or pressure increase (if any). But if the drop checker indicates an increase in CO2, then I can conclude that my cannister filter can handle some back pressure; and that dissolved CO2 is increased with back pressure.Anyone who doesnt believe restricting the outflow, even a little bit, can increase the pressure enough to make a HUGE difference in the final dissolution of tiny micro bubbles..... has never tried it for themselves.![]()
Thanks, I currently turn the CO2 on 1 hour before lights; and off 30 minutes before dark. I just can't quite get the drop checker to hit desired 30ppm of CO2, regardless of how long CO2 is on, or at any bps.....you could also try turning co2 on an hour or two before lights on, and turn it off an hour or so before lights off.
how was plant growth using the atomic? what do plants look like with the reactor so far?
If it was solely due to increased dwell time then cutting the flow before the reactor would have the exact same effect.I feel a restriction on the outflow will change the amount of bubbles seen coming out. However, I do not agree that this is caused by an increase in pressure but I feel it is far more likely to be the reduced flow making the contact time much more. I fully agree that I have not used any form of flow restriction but when I did get some bubbles escaping, I did not want to reduce flow as I want my filters to perform as well as possible.
I found that creating a longer dwell time inside the reactor by increasing either the length or diameter of the PVC worked to remove the bubbles without cutting the flow.
My basic thought is that we do know that CO2 will move into the water when given time. That is the whole idea of both the Cerge's and the Grigg's. I also see the other post which shows there is no measurable pressure inside the reactor as the poster has it. So does anybody have a meter or other info showing us how this pressure is developed when the system is open to the tank water at both ends? I see no reason for much increased pressure but I do see there will be less flow. Less flow gives longer time for the CO2 to move into the water. This is one of the variables that I try to estimate when I build a reactor for a different size tank or filter. I find I have to size the reactor to fit both the flow from the filter and the amount of CO2 I expect to push into the tank. When I get it wrong, I cut the PVC and add a couple more inches to the length but I do not ever want to restrict the flow.
I'm willing to change my mind if there is somebody with a meter on their system and they can show a pressure increase by reducing flow.
Surprising results from my first back pressure experiment: The sound of the gas/liquid layer within the reactor disappeared; and I still did not observe any CO2 bubbles in the aquarium. However, there was no observable difference in the color of the drop checker!Ok, I have just started an experiment to test an increase in back pressure. I have used a vise-clamp to pinch/flatten the tubing after the reactor. This is a very unscientific study, since I have no way to know the volume reduction or pressure increase (if any). But if the drop checker indicates an increase in CO2, then I can conclude that my cannister filter can handle some back pressure; and that dissolved CO2 is increased with back pressure.
I'd toss the drop checker, they're only rough guess under the best of circumstances. Too much room for error.
Better to do a relative PH test between degassed tank water and the tank with the co2 on. There should be a full 1.0 drop, minimum, preferably by the time the lights come on, or shortly thereafter.
You'll need a digital PH pen to do this, cant use drop tests or strips. They're about 15-20 bucks on amazon, and you'll need some 7.0 calibration solution. It's the best investment you can make at this point.
Side note:
Here's an interesting vid where a guy with a cerges fixed a problem by adding more pressure. The pressure discussion starts around the 3 min mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itj-qxlKmIo