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hi again, I installed the system, it works, but it does not do the things that it should do with timing, but there is no problem with rtc in those with mechanical triggering, I think there is a problem with the wdt.h library, can you help.
1027144
 

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Отправил на почту ссылку, там есть и библиотеки которые я использовал.
I sent a link to the mail, there are also libraries that I used.
 

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Been away for a while and just decided to build another one on these controllers, I was wondering.... on the SD card, is there a trick to getting larger than 1GB cards working?
I can steal a 1GB out of one of my iAqua builds and it works fine for the most part (missing a picture I think, under the time and next to the temp), but when I try a 2GB card (Fat, Fast23, exFAT) and the images in the "SD Card Images" folder, I get nothing.
I even tried cloning the original and working 1GB card with win32DiskImager onto a 2GB and 16Gb card with no luck.
Anyone else experience this, fix it?
 

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I have been researching about iAqua and another diy aquarium controller , reef pi.

So far, it seems to me that reef pi has the features I want right out of the box, like WiFi connectivity and a website where it can be controlled from plus many modern features.

I hear that iAqua could do that also, but will need a lot of extra boards and more programming.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
 

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I have been researching about iAqua and another diy aquarium controller , reef pi.

So far, it seems to me that reef pi has the features I want right out of the box, like WiFi connectivity and a website where it can be controlled from plus many modern features.

I hear that iAqua could do that also, but will need a lot of extra boards and more programming.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
I cam to ask another question of the group and saw your question.... I too looked at the reef Pi, liked it but found that it also needed multiple boards. If your still looking for something with WiFi, perhaps this (AquariOS - Aquarium Operating System) would interest you. It was a bit too much for my needs, but I built one on a breadboard and it was a nice project, combining WiFi and a touch screen.

I was wondering if anyone has added control for a second heater relay, with or without on screen adjustability.
I'm using a SSR for the heater now, but would like to add a mechanical relay as a sort of fail safe, should the SSR fail (heard they fail closed circuit). This way, if the temp ever goes 2 or so degrees over the max set point, the mechanical would trip, saving me from a "fish fry".
I see in O2's board there are a few unused pins, and asking before I try adding code to utilize 1 of those.
 

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I was wondering if anyone has added control for a second heater relay, with or without on screen adjustability.
I'm using a SSR for the heater now, but would like to add a mechanical relay as a sort of fail safe, should the SSR fail (heard they fail closed circuit). This way, if the temp ever goes 2 or so degrees over the max set point, the mechanical would trip, saving me from a "fish fry".
I see in O2's board there are a few unused pins, and asking before I try adding code to utilize 1 of those.
I have an interesting fail safe mechanism for my heaters in stalled in my 6 tank central system....

1. each of my 6 20L display tanks has a small 25W hydor substrate heating cable. So quite underpowered in the winter. So if they got locked on... it wouldn't result in taking the water temps over 78degF in my 70degF ambient air home.

2. the second chamber of the dual 2 x 20L sump tanks has 1 100W aux heater installed. This 100W heater is dialed in to maintain 80degF in connected directly to mains... That assures me that they will be on when the controller is calling for 78degF. If the controller (relay) were to lock up.. fully engaging this 100W aux heater as if it were connected directly to mains... it would only stay on until about 80degF. The mechanical portion of this aux heater is my safeguard against the electrical portion (controller/relay) running away.

So really worst case scenario for me would be a runaway temperature from 78degF to 80degF. After 80degF.. the aux heater would shut off... meanwhile the other 6 25W substrate cable heaters fully engaged would hardly do anything to increase the whoe system's 150gallons by even 1 degree as it would be unaided by the 100W aux heater. I have high circulation and allot of glass area (8 20 gallon aquariums and loads of plumbing) for heat loss.
 
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