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A NOTE OF CAUTION:

You may not get the "exact" parts you buy from some of the Chinese vendors..

I ordered a Serial/USB board for a Typhon and wanted the EXACT one pictured.. Got a completely different albeit "upgrade" board.

Problem was it didn't have the "plug" attached..
Had to buy some to make it work. The "exact' board had the plug pre soldered.

ONLY time this happened but be somewhat aware. I'd send a note w/ purchase "exact board only" if it is critical..

Was it just me or anyone else have a similar experience?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A NOTE OF CAUTION:

You may not get the "exact" parts you buy from some of the Chinese vendors..

I ordered a Serial/USB board for a Typhon and wanted the EXACT one pictured.. Got a completely different albeit "upgrade" board.

Problem was it didn't have the "plug" attached..
Had to buy some to make it work. The "exact' board had the plug pre soldered.

ONLY time this happened but be somewhat aware. I'd send a note w/ purchase "exact board only" if it is critical..

Was it just me or anyone else have a similar experience?
I think it depends on what you are ordering. I mess around a lot with electronics, and I order a lot of this stuff from China (way more than I care to admit). I've never had these little electronic bits and pieces be different than what I was expecting. But you are absolutely in the right to raise caution. I don't think it's the norm, but it does happen for sure. I think that looking at seller feedback scores can be indicative. Luckily the few China parts for this are dirt chip, but unfortunately if you get the wrong one you'd be waiting for 3 weeks to get the right one. I posted the ones I ordered, so those should be solid.
 

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This actually looks doable ;) ...Now I really need an ecoxotic e series.

Could this be modified so that instead of a mid day fade it activates a storm event or other dynamic weather setting at a specific time and duration?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Could this be modified so that instead of a mid day fade it activates a storm event or other dynamic weather setting at a specific time and duration?
Anything you can do with the remote control can be programmed and automated. The controller just automates the process of hitting buttons on the remote, and sends that out the IR LED. I do have all of the IR codes in the sketch, even though the program doesn't use all of them. So, there is a lot for people to build on.

It is a challenge trying to figure out how to make stuff configurable, automatable, and usable. For instance, you couldn't ever start a storm in the middle of a transition. There is a lot of stuff like that you have to take into account, but it's certainly doable.

As far as building on the existing code, one nice thing about using the Mega is that we have 256 K of flash memory, of which the current program is only using about 1/8 or so. There is plenty of room to add features.
 

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I think it depends on what you are ordering. I mess around a lot with electronics, and I order a lot of this stuff from China (way more than I care to admit). I've never had these little electronic bits and pieces be different than what I was expecting. But you are absolutely in the right to raise caution. I don't think it's the norm, but it does happen for sure. I think that looking at seller feedback scores can be indicative. Luckily the few China parts for this are dirt chip, but unfortunately if you get the wrong one you'd be waiting for 3 weeks to get the right one. I posted the ones I ordered, so those should be solid.
bought:


Sent:


JUST different enough to be annoying.. ;)
 

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Awesome, I'm glad you were able to get this all pulled together!

Now I want an e-series even more. *chuckle* Not worth the hassle to build one for my Sat+, since I already have a controller set up, even though it doesn't have the slick menu and cross-fading capabilities this does. I just need to get my iAqua finished and it won't be needed anyway.

But it's all so slick I almost want one anyway, LOL!
 

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is there a remote control for the unit?
If I understand it correctly, the unit is basically a remote control. Once it is programmed it works as a set, point at light's IR receiver and forget it automated remote control, that runs a 6 phase automated lighting schedual.
 

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"The hardware would 100% work on the CSP. The code works with minimal modification (I'm using it on one), but far more complicated initial setup. If you don't want the menu system and cross fading, you can use the existing CSP code from the other thread, and just a few tiny changes for the pin numbers and the 1302 RTC. The E-series makes setup 100x easier because of the simple LCD readout of the RGBW values from 0-100. With the CSP it's a guessing game."

U posted this in the other thread.....all of that is mumbo jumbo to me sry lol I have a lot of tanks running off of current led's so this would actually be perfect and cheaper then buying a ton of separate dimmers. Any chance that you could help me get this to work with the current led+ or point me in the right directions on where to find that info...thanks
 

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If I understand it correctly, the unit is basically a remote control. Once it is programmed it works as a set and forget automated remote control that runs a 6 phase automated lighting schedual.
for example there are times that you only want daylight or certain mode. how do you get around?
 

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for example there are times that you only want daylight or certain mode. how do you get around?
as long as you still have the remote for the led that came with it you can still do it by hand I believe. The way I assume this controller works is at certain times it sends out a signal similar to what the remote sends to change the modes of the light. If you still have the original remote you can change the light to whatever setting you would like
 

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as long as you still have the remote for the led that came with it you can still do it by hand I believe. The way I assume this controller works is at certain times it sends out a signal similar to what the remote sends to change the modes of the light. If you still have the original remote you can change the light to whatever setting you would like
that will work. I'm assuming that you can have the system completely off after moon light. I just don't want moonlight to remain active the whole time when the system is supposedly "off". looks like this is going to be my Xmas project :).
 
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