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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Ive been having this on and off algae on my amazon swords and dwarf hair grass. It looks like BBA and i increased my co2 and my nitrate dosing and decreased my phosphate dosing. It still hasnt helped. The amazons also have yellow tips on some of the leaves. Here are some pics:



Here is a picture of a anubia that Ive had for a while and it keeps getting green spot algae on it. Is it because its a slow growing plant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok...so what can I do about it? Also, what is the yellowing from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
alrighty what do you think it looks like?
 

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I really don't know, so hopefully someone else will come along and know.

I don't see anything in the 3rd pic, but maybe I'm just missing it.

In this anubias Pic I'm not sure what's in the red square. In the blue square looks possibly like a small tuff of BBA or staghorn--but its really hard to tell if its anything at all from that pic:



In this Pic I assume You are referring to what's on the leaf tips inside the red squares, Right? If so, I really don't know what it is. From the pic it looks like a deficiency--is there algae there? I cannot tell. Diatoms looks reasonable:



Sorry I cannot be of more help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
in the pciture with the anubias, that is java moss. The amazon pic does have some kind of algae on it at the ends with yellow tips on some of them.
 

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in the third pic it looks like a combination of GSA and Fuzz algae.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well im more concerned about the algae on the amazon swords so if anyone can help me that would be great...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i found some info about the yellowing of the tips and it said it could be a calcium def. I added some calcium to the tank but im wondering how often and how much I should add?? I have calcium chloride.
 

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From what I understand Calcium deficiencies are pretty rare. Potassium and Calcium deficiencies can look alike. Also, the calcium is going to harden Your water. From my experience with hard water and reading--the odds are much more in favor of needing Mg (Epsom Salt). Do You have a calcium test kit? It would help You determine the Gh make up of Your tap water: X=Calcium--the rest is Mg. There is a Ca:Mg ratio. There isn't a Ca:Mg ratio. I guess it really depends on who You ask and which day of the week. Either way, I don't recall what it is (3-4:1?), so a quick search should answer that question.

If its a "Calcium deficiency" the odds are that its not a lack of ca--its something else lacking/blocking Ca uptake.

Also, if it was a Ca Deficiency--I would assume--that You would also be getting the twisted, distorted leaves.

HTH
 

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Rach, Are you dosing EI? Also, one site maintains Diatoms can be from an excess of PO4 and limited KNO3 in lower light areas. Scroll down and check out this great link:

http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yes i use the EI dosing method. I dose 1/2 tsp of kno3 and 1/4 of phosphate and 1/4 of potassium and csm+b. Is that a good amount of each?

Also, is a 40% water change good to do every week? because that is what ive been doing for ever.
 

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I had both problems and here's what I did with successful results;

The black diatom frost you see mostly near the bottom of slow growth plants will go away after 4-5 treatments with 2/3rd dose of ChemiClean Red Slim Remover, then maintain it with one treatment per Month. Only use this approach if you have a long established tank since a new tank will temporarily have diatoms anyway that should reduce naturally over time.

The Green Spot Algae growing on your leaves is probably growing on your glass as well. You can reduce it by shortening your light period down to 6-8 hours which is really all your plants need anyway. you can completely removed it by pruning the leaves it appears, and cleaning your glass with an exfoliant sponge, but this sponging may have to be repeated every few weeks.

Using a UV during the first 24 hours after a internal glass cleaning, water change, gravel vacuum, or filter media, rinse may also reduce the amount that these two problems reassert themselves, since the UV will kill them while they are water borne before they have a chance to migrate to a new surface after your maintenance activity displaced them.

I don't think increasing Nitrate dosing is doing you any good unless your Nitrates are normally low, like under 5ppm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
is the chemiclean a spot treatment or added to the whole tank?
 

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yeah, you have to use a Q-Tip and dabb every single black spot with....

of course it's a tank treatment, LOL... that's why I used the word dose.

I'm just fun'in yah. search here for "chemiclean" as we've discussed it before.

most say 1/2 dose. I did 2/3rd cause I'm a rebel, and my fish are tough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
HAHA...i thought you were serious at first...lol

I did a search for it on the forum but came up with nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so this chemiclean will get rid of the diatoms on my plants? I googled it and it said it was used from saltwater slime or something, nothing about diatoms. Will this harm my fish at all?
 

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Hmmmm, interesting. I have the EXACT same thing on my swords as well, and my anubias nana. Lemme know if that chemiclean works out :)
 

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Personally, I would try upping the CO2 and keep the light to 10 hours per day with a full blast at midday for four-five hours and half light the balance of the photo period (depending upon your light and water column).
 
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