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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 10g tank that I set up many months ago. Originally I was using a HOB filter rated for 10g. While it kept the tank clean, it was way to much movement for the betta. There was not adjustment for his HOB so I ditched it for a zoomed 501 that was on sale. The zoomed 501 became just as big of a head ache. I felt it was under powered and required cleaning every 3 days, I mean wire brush down the tubes, cleaning the sponge to keep the flow from becoming a trickle. Finally frustrated with the amount of mulm and just the tank always looking dirty I took the entire thing down.

I'm good on the light and heater, those are working well. I'm stuck on the filtration. I DO NOT have the room for a canister, or I would be putting an eheim on there yesterday. I started this tank off, before the hob with a simple sponge filter. I kept having the tank cycle with it for some reason and it killed my betta. Thus, the upgrade to the hob.

I feel like there is not filtration option for me. I'm not sure what to do, the tank is currently sitting empty waiting for dirt and some manzanita coming in.
I either need
a very very low profile canister filter
figure out how to make the zoomed501 work better
a hob suited for a 10g that lets me adjust the flow to my needs

What should I do? I don't really want anything in take as they tend to take up a lot of room.
 

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What HOB filter were you using? Many people use HOB filters on 10 gallon with success.

Why was your zoomed clogging so fast? There is an underlying problem that can be fixed.

There is also an underlying problem with a sponge filter that keeps cycling. I have a feeling it's related to the problem with the zoomed.

A standard 10g is one of the simplest tanks to filter. Pretty much any small HOB, sponge, or canister filter should work. I'd choose what you want to use and then let the community help you figure out the issue with the filter of your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I could clean the tubes on the zoomed 501 monday and my wed they were back to just utter black bio clogged smelly mess and the flow was not enough to even move the top of the water around.

Plants were growing slow but growing

The hob I got in trade, not sure of the name. I'm currently using it on my 55g, it's working fine for that lol. The only way to adjust the flow on this one, was a blue thing that sits on the output that you raise or lower to increase/decrease flow. Not a very good design.

I found there was a constant amount of mulm on the substrate, even after a water change and sucking 99% of it up, within a few days it was all back. I think that is what has been clogging the zoomed. I wasn't impressed with the quality of it either, the connections never stayed tight on the tubes, screw it down and the tubes would come right out. I don't plan on using it again.

If I go with a standard sponge filter, does it have to run 24/7, reason I ask, my air pump is one with 2 outlets, so one goes to the 55g directly above and the other into the 10g, but I only run the air pump (timer) at night and a few hours broken up during the day. I would love to go with a sponge as I would reduce one plug in, which would clean up the area a lot.
 

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Sponge filter has to run 24/7. That is where a lot of the bacteria live. They need a very good oxygen supply.

Have you looked into the smallest Aquaclear? There is an Aquaclear 20, that I have run on a 10 gallon. It is adjustable. 100 gph max, and it can be adjusted to about half that. You can slip a cube of sponge over the intake for added filtration. (Cut a slit or X through the sponge, leaving just the bottom intact and slide it on. You can use an Aquaclear sponge or a slightly coarser one.

If you have that much mulm building up there is something wrong with the set up. The filter is supposed to pick up the mulm, so it is good that it was getting into the zoomed, but bad that there was so much it was clogging the tubing. That is a lot of mulm.

If a filter runs too slowly it won't pick up the mulm. It won't clog, and the Betta will be fine with the slow water movement, but you will be vacuuming the tank a lot.
If a filter runs faster it will pick up the mulm, and you could try placing it where the outflow hits a rock or driftwood and is broken up rather than making a strong flow that bothers the Betta.
 

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An air pump for a sponge filter needs to be on 24/7. If that was not the case when you had one..clearly that was the reason it kept re-cycling. Any bio-filter must be on 24/7.
The beneficial bacteria need the Oxygen provided when water passes over it.
This would be an excelent filter for low flow and outside also. This is a site that sells the one mantioned by squatindog.
http://ca-en.hagen.com/Aquatic/Filtration/Clip-On
Amazon.com: Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Large: Pet Supplies
Also can be use as a filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is all great info, yup the previous sponge was on a 4 on 4 off cycle. I didn't even think about that. Duh! move for sure.
The best placement for a hob on this tank would be placing it to flow from the side. I might extent the out put. I would need to decrease the running water sound. Might try making one of the baskets and growing something in it. Would I be ok placing it there?

My thoughts on the zoomed, with the input being rather large slits, after cleaning its sucking in everything, to powerful when clean, causing it to clog faster. I might just turn it into a pump for water changes.
 

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A Aquaclear mini might be the trick. Problem with a sponge filter for me in a small tank is real estate space, It's already small enough~>
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Crypticlifestyle I agree, im going for most real estate possible. I think im going to replace my jager heater with a colbalt neo heater. I have a 25w on my 8.7 and its a little gangster.
Hob will be my only option. Does placement of the hob affect the functionality?
 

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Aqua-Clears have adjustable flow. I second the AC20 . Not only can you adjust water flow but the 20 increases your bio filtration. Also i didn't see it mentioned but did you have a sponge on the pickup using the canister? This should have protected the canister from clogging up so quickly.

I had a similar experience with the ZooMed 501. Flow was okay but i wanted to extend the tubes and move the canister under the tank. It was suggested not to + it read right on the instructions to keep the ZooMed right beside the tank. I switched to a Finnex canister that was rated for 10 gallons. It rocks! I extended the hoses and installed ball valves in-line. Has been a good runner.

I use AC HOB filters too and totally like them.
 

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Get an aquaclear 20 it 30 hob filter, it will suit your needs perfectly.

Your mulm problem bothers me. Mulm doesn't just show up in a tank, it's created by fish poo, over feeding, decaying plant matter, etc. Correct the underlying problem and you should have a much easier time finding a good filter.
 

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If you want reduced flow that Marina breeder box will do it but to get more flow from an HOB it will do that better but likely more gently on an end of the tank.
Gently in the overall tank. That breeder box uses air to move the water(or a pump)
so it is slower than a regular filter and does need to be adapted for use as a filter but
just by adding filter material not physical alterations.
I now have a filter which produces a current like stirring a bowl. Used to be one like
a clock...down one end and back up the other. Liked that one better.
 

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I use a Tom's Rapids canister. It is small and hangs on the back. Reduce flow by making larger holes in the spraybar. Just a thought

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

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I thought so too, but someone warned me off the 501 for some reason. Been happy with mine

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

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I modified my intake on the 501. All I did was remove the strainer and drilled a few holes in the intake pipe, I then slipped a sponge over the intake pipe and it works wonderfully now. I can go a few weeks easily without a cleaning.
 
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