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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
One big advantage of both the FX5 and CFS500 are their strong bottom motor design which allows on site under-tank purging for light weight transport and easy re-prime for return operation. My step-by-step procedures are the same for both the FX5 and CFS500 and although they may seem long in reality once you have practiced the steps they happen pretty fast in secession.

(1) with the filter running support the valve body and port while with the other hand gently apply rocking pressure torque to each gate valve to brake it loose from its long time seated ON position slightly toward OFF then back to ON. The idea is to crack the valve loose gently in preparation for their quick maneuvering to the full ON & OFF position. Also note the location of the AC plug outlet to make it handy to unplug or the handy location of the screw the cord at the base of the canister for later use to kill power.

(2) With the filter still running smartly but not hurriedly grasp and support the IN-FLOW valve and port and with the other hand turn the IN-FLOW valve to full OFF then press its detach button and lift off the IN-FLOW valve completely letting it dangle.

(3) You will hear the canister being pumped out of water until it gurgles or hisses and at that point you want to shut the OUT-FLOW valve to OFF positions and then unplug the canister AC plug from the wall or unscrew the cord at the base, just make sure you kill power to stop the pump AFTER you have shut the OUT-FLOW valve to OFF.

(4) At this point residual water in the sponge and filter media is collecting at the bottom of the canister so wait 3 minutes and then in exact sequence smartly turn the power to the pump back on and immediately open re-open the OUT-FLOW valve which will pump out the remaining water and the moment you hear the water pump out with air hissing/gurgling, immediately turn the OUT-FLOW valve back to OFF and unplug the power (on the FX5 I do this 3 times to almost empty the canister). Now you can disconnect the OUT-Flow hose and remove the canister for servicing.

(5) After servicing ready to re-install simply connect the IN-FLOW valve first and only and with the OUT-Flow valve NOT connected, crack open the IN-FLOW valve that is primed full of water to 1/3 open and let water fill the canister, listening at the OUT-FLOW port-hole as air leaves for the tell-tale sound of filling up almost, then shut the IN-FLOW valve back off.

(6) Now reconnect the OUT-FLOW valve and open both valves fully, any residual air will flow out of the OUT-FLOW, then and only then turn the power back on and your filter is up and running for another few months.

Now isn't that better then struggling with a water filled Top lid-motor design? This thread was just intended to provide a way and show that only these filters are capable of sustained self draining under tank pressure testifying to there superior flow capabilities, even when the filter is dirty, something no top-lid motor deign canister is capable of.

**OH one important note mostly for the FX5, make sure your tanks has enough top-off room for the water pump out, this means on a 100 gallon about 1.5 inches and on the CFS500 for 50 gallon about the same. I have never over-flowed my tanks doing this procedure but came close for not remembering to check LOL.
 
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