How the heck do I use my Swagelok SS-SS2-D?

4218 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Bettatail, Aug 22, 2012

jcgd

Discussion Starter · Aug 19, 2012

I bought this metering valve and it has outputs for that dinky 1/8" tubing. For thee life of me I cannot figure out how to convert it to use 1/4" co2 tubing.

http://www.swagelok.ru/images/product_images/large/SS-SS2-D.jpg

Can anyone explain how I convert this to something useful?

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oldpunk78

· #2 · Aug 19, 2012 (Edited)

B-2-HC-A-201

Replace the 'B' with 'SS' if you want it in stainless. There are a couple other parts that might be of use to you in the how to regulator thread. I wouldn't recommend mounting that thing. It's too heavy to safely use a 1/8 tube to hold it out there. If you are dead set on mounting it, you need swagelok part # SS-2-TA-1-2.

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kevmo911

· #3 · Aug 19, 2012

Okay, there are a couple things you can do. One, you can run it inline with 1/8" OD tubing (what we generally use is twice that size, or 1/4"), and you'd need 1/16" inserts. SS-205-1 is the Swagelok product number for tubing insert for 1/8" OD and 1/16" ID. You'd also need 1/16" to 1/18" barb (or compression fitting - much more expensive) adapters.

The other thing you can do is use two 1/8" tube adapters. You'll need the SS adapters, as the airtight connection depends on the opposing metals being similar. SS-2-TA-1-2 is the Swagelok model number for a 1/8" tube to 1/8" male NPT adapter. On the intake end, you'll probably want that exact type, or the female type (substitute "7" for the "1"). On the output, you can go with male or female 1/8" NPT, or a 1/4" compression fitting (with 1/4 OD, 1/8 ID insert).

Check swagelok.com for more info, and do a google search for "tylok cross reference", which will give you a spreadsheet link with compatible model numbers of some of the competing brands (though it's missing several, at least). Swagelok sells direct, with a minimum shipping charge of $13 or so, but Evilbay is your best friend if you're willing to type in a bunch of different model numbers.

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jcgd

Discussion Starter · #4 · Aug 19, 2012

Okay, that's what I thought. I have the barb adapter. My check isn't meant to be mounted either and I'm good there with all the tubing installation how-to's. That connection just seems strange.

You are supposed to put the nv's nut over the "stem" and then insert it into the nv and finger tighten the nut. Once I do this, the adapter is still flopping around like a fish. I haven't tried that 1/4" turn with a wrench because it just didn't seem right.

Once I do that 1/4" turn will the adapter get locked into the fitting? Or am I missing another ferrule or something?

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oldpunk78

· #5 · Aug 19, 2012

There should be 2 ferrels inside the nut the tubing goes. Those 2 crush down on the tubing and make a permanent connection between the ferrels and tube. If you don't have the right ferrels or adapters it will not work the way its intended too. If its just a little off you can just tighten it gown a bit more. Pics of what's going on would help a lot.

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jcgd

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 19, 2012

Okay, it looks like I'm missing the furreles for the needle valve.

So the only difference between the tube adapters and actual tubing is the barb you would put in the tubing? With the adapter, it is rigid and only requires the ferrules and the nut?

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kevmo911

· #7 · Aug 19, 2012 (Edited)

Yes, you need a front and back ferrule. And a SS adapter. What you have is brass. I have no experience in combing a SS ferrule with brass adapter, but I've read that it can leak. Remember, compression fitting adapters require a metal-on-metal connection, that you don't use dope or tape on.

SS-203-1
SS-204-1

...are the front and back ferrules. Though you can sometimes find them cheaper if you search Evilbay for 1/8 tube fittings. Even if you buy something completely useless to you, as long as it has a 1/8 double ferrule compression fitting on it (anything from Swagelok, for example), you'll get yourself a complete set, SS-200-NFSET is the Swagelok model for nut and 2 ferrules.

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Cab123

· #8 · Aug 20, 2012

.....

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Bettatail

· #9 · Aug 20, 2012

no adapter needed.

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jcgd

Discussion Starter · #10 · Aug 22, 2012

So is that a solenoid there under the needle valve? It just has the proper female threads to accept the needle valve?

My solenoids don't have the proper connection but it would seem I can order the specific part I need? I'd much rather mount the needle valve to the reg.

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oldpunk78

· #11 · Aug 22, 2012 (Edited)

jcgd said:
So is that a solenoid there under the needle valve? It just has the proper female threads to accept the needle valve?

My solenoids don't have the proper connection but it would seem I can order the specific part I need? I'd much rather mount the needle valve to the reg.

Bettatail modified that manifold. (Nuematics(?)solenoid or similar w/ Clippard mouse manifold or similar) It would appear he has drilled and tapped the brass block with probably a tapered dye that is close to the proprietary threads that Swagelok uses on their tube fittings(Keep in mind the Swagelok tube threads are not tapered). It's not something I recommend doing. (You shouldn't modify anything that has to do with pressurized gas, IMO) It probably goes together just fine since the brass is soft and the steel is hard(probably not the best seal either), but every time you would take it apart and put together, it strips just a little bit.

I would strongly urge anyone considering this method to rethink what exactly is going on there. In plain English, it's Jerry rigged.

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jcgd

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 22, 2012

Oh, I see. Well... that was a little misleading. I got a little bit excited there for a minute.

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Bettatail

· #13 · Aug 22, 2012

oldpunk78 said:
Bettatail modified that manifold. (Nuematics(?)solenoid or similar w/ Clippard mouse manifold or similar) It would appear he has drilled and tapped the brass block with probably a tapered dye that is close to the proprietary threads that Swagelok uses on their tube fittings(Keep in mind the Swagelok tube threads are not tapered). It's not something I recommend doing. (You shouldn't modify anything that has to do with pressurized gas, IMO) It probably goes together just fine since the brass is soft and the steel is hard(probably not the best seal either), but every time you would take it apart and put together, it strips just a little bit.

I would strongly urge anyone considering this method to rethink what exactly is going on there. In plain English, it's Jerry rigged.

You are correct, it is not for the average hobbyists that can machine the parts without proper tools.
The modified connection has been tested which can withstand 800 psi, even though the stainless steel solenoid is a 100 psi working pressure rated.
The swagelok tube connection thread size was not easy to find, luckily found the thread size chart and the right size drill bit and tap, made, then tested. It seals pretty well especially when the steel meet the brass, with enough torque the steel thread engrave into the brass.

if you want to try it out, let me know.

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Bettatail

· #14 · Aug 22, 2012

jcgd said:
Oh, I see. Well... that was a little misleading. I got a little bit excited there for a minute.

I have all the fittings, swagelok and stainless steel.
But don't want to use them because it may not look good, and stainless steel 1/8 compression tube connection is a little bit weak against torque, which means you can use your hand to turn the parts from where the ferrules meet the 1/8 OD tube.
Brass ferrules connections are even worst, much weaker against torque.

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