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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally have all of the components for my CO2 system, but I have run into a snag- I don not know rate I should set my bubble counter to. I have all of it set up, but I cannot find out where I get the info for this. The tank is a 38g. I do not know if light is a factor, but if it is I am running 2 WPG. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We calculated co2 in bps(bubbles per second) so what I would do is set a timer to 10 seconds and count how many bubbles and just divide by 10 to get your bps. Normally a good starting point is 2bps. What ferts are you dosing?
I am currently dosing Flourish Excel, Flourish Comprehensive, Flourish Iron, Flourish Phosphorous, and Flourish Potassium. So 2bps is a good base to start from for my size tank? Does the bps vary by tank size? Thanks!
 

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I am currently dosing Flourish Excel, Flourish Comprehensive, Flourish Iron, Flourish Phosphorous, and Flourish Potassium. So 2bps is a good base to start from for my size tank? Does the bps vary by tank size? Thanks!
Whats your lighting? T5HO?
You can get rid of the excel. Bps is only on the bubble counter. Of course larger tanks need higher bubble counts but you can adjust it as you go. Be sure to get a drop checker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Whats your lighting? T5HO?
You can get rid of the excel. Bps is only on the bubble counter. Of course larger tanks need higher bubble counts but you can adjust it as you go. Be sure to get a drop checker.
I currently have a pH computer set up, but I have a drop checker on the way. Is there a reference chart somewhere that has info on which bps is appropriate for a particular setup? And lighting is T5HO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well how far ar the lights from the substrate? How tall is the tank? every setup is different so there aren't any particular charts.
OK, that makes sense. The tank is about 19 inches tall, and the lights are about that same height (19 inches) from the substrate once you take into account the height of both the gravel from the bottom and the light fixture above the rim. My lighting is 2x 39W T5HO; one bulb is a Zoo-Med Flora bulb, the other is a 6700k Coralife Freshwater bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So basically they're on top of the tank. Correct? I would suggest you dose EI or dry ferts cuz theyre a lot cheaper in the long run. Seachem sells the same thing just in a diluted form. With EI, youll have a pretty high bubble count. Do you have a sump? What diffuser are you using?
I am using a glass diffuser with a ceramic bubble plate. Yes, the fixture is directly on the rim of the tank; it is a Zoo Med fixture if that makes any difference. I have read a bit about fertilizer options, but to be honest I still don't exactly understand how EI dosing works, or even what it is for sure. I have looked at many of the threads here, but since I don't really have a reference I am not 100% sure I understand what I am reading. (Which is why I am using the Seachem products...) I do not have a sump. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No problem. Basically EI is when you dose excess of what plants need causing supernatural growth. So you just dose what's recommended online and you just watch your plants grow. EI is a fertilizing method.
Thanks for the explanation. Is there a guide that I can refer to that will tell me what is best for my particular plants?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well then you can just look them over in the plant profile section. The moss, sword, fern, anubias, crypts and hygrophila difformis shouldn't be too picky same with everything else ya got... haha
Yeah, I tried to pick the easiest plants for my first real planted tank. I did check some of the plant profiles, thanks for the suggestion.
 

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your bps will vary alot from tank to tank depending on lighting, flow, surface agitation, plant mass, diffustion efficentcy ext ext, with that a generall starting point should be 1-2 bps and slowly increase over a weeks time (start with less to much from the start can stress andor gas your fauna(remember to shut off when adding new fish to or add after its off).

when doing increase watch your tank every 15-30 mins to watch for signs off stress on your fauna. this will always be a trial and error thats why a dc helps first timers as its a visual guide but it does take time to read/show. i would also keep your psi above 40 if ur using a ssr single stage reg for two big reasons, it helps keep a steady bubble rate *some crappy nv dont do good jobs* and two for rise and decay aka end of tank dump even though its a slow prosses it helps keep the increase % to a minimum.
 

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Hey there Floriduh LOL
You're getting some good advice here I think. Kudo's to jkan0228 for helping you out.
When you get it 1/2 way figured out Orlando is right here in G'ville and fast to get orders out.
I settled on GLA because the customer service is fantastic and I watched this 'hobby' grow into his business that now has a store front. All dry ferts are +- exactly the same and the cost is pennies one way or the other ordered online. Recipes for adding water to make solutions that reduce the ppm increase to something predictable are easily found.

NEVER pay to receive a shipment of water containing a minimal chemical content.

Your topic of CO2 bubble rate per second is chasing a dragons tail. Surface turbulence (out gassing), plant density, injection method being placed in different locations in the tank ALL factor into it.

Fish not gasping at the surface is always nice LOL but dial your flow based on diffusion and saturation based on the drop checker when it arrives. I use American Marine controllers and really like them but rely on a drop checker and fish behavior as indication.

haha checking my spelling I see HypnoticAquatic was ninja posting ahead of me. :hihi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
your bps will vary alot from tank to tank depending on lighting, flow, surface agitation, plant mass, diffustion efficentcy ext ext, with that a generall starting point should be 1-2 bps and slowly increase over a weeks time (start with less to much from the start can stress andor gas your fauna(remember to shut off when adding new fish to or add after its off).

when doing increase watch your tank every 15-30 mins to watch for signs off stress on your fauna. this will always be a trial and error thats why a dc helps first timers as its a visual guide but it does take time to read/show. i would also keep your psi above 40 if ur using a ssr single stage reg for two big reasons, it helps keep a steady bubble rate *some crappy nv dont do good jobs* and two for rise and decay aka end of tank dump even though its a slow prosses it helps keep the increase % to a minimum.
Thanks for spelling this out for me. I was really wondering how I should do this, and you saved me from having to ask any extra questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey there Floriduh LOL
You're getting some good advice here I think. Kudo's to jkan0228 for helping you out.
When you get it 1/2 way figured out Orlando is right here in G'ville and fast to get orders out.
I settled on GLA because the customer service is fantastic and I watched this 'hobby' grow into his business that now has a store front. All dry ferts are +- exactly the same and the cost is pennies one way or the other ordered online. Recipes for adding water to make solutions that reduce the ppm increase to something predictable are easily found.

NEVER pay to receive a shipment of water containing a minimal chemical content.

Your topic of CO2 bubble rate per second is chasing a dragons tail. Surface turbulence (out gassing), plant density, injection method being placed in different locations in the tank ALL factor into it.

Fish not gasping at the surface is always nice LOL but dial your flow based on diffusion and saturation based on the drop checker when it arrives. I use American Marine controllers and really like them but rely on a drop checker and fish behavior as indication.

haha checking my spelling I see HypnoticAquatic was ninja posting ahead of me. :hihi:
Thanks a bunch for your help. I am actually starting to feel like I have a pretty good grasp of how this works. Right now I have a Red Sea CO2 test kit which I am trying to use in conjunction with my pH computer while I am waiting for my drop checker to arrive. So far I have only hooked up the CO2 system, and have only run it enough to check my junctions for leaks. Tomorrow will be the first test run while watching it closely- like I would not be doing that anyway!

btw- do you use RO water in your tanks? If you do not, how do you deal with the liquid rock that is Florida water?
 
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