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High Tech 40 breeder tank (first high tech tank)

4170 Views 41 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  DOJOLOACH23
I figured it would be best for me to make a journal on my tanks progress. I would very much appreciate advice on foreground plants that would be suitable in warmer water (82F), my CO2 system, and fertalizing. This will be my first time dabbling with a higher light system and here is my equipment list:

- Aquaclear 70 HOB filter
- CO2 System (still haven't decided between a beginner CO2 system and making my own kit using used regulator and parts from Ebay. Also looking at aquatek for a 5lb tank
- Finnex Ray 2 ds dual 7000k LED light (36")
- heater

Layout material:
- fluorite black sand (30lbs)
- manzanita branchy driftwood from a local shop.
- white/gray granite from my backyard... also considering ordering some nicer stone from ADA such as seiryu stone.

Here is a pic of my tanks current state while I decide on the co2 system and wait for layout material to come in the mail. I could use some recommendations on foreground plants and red midground plants as well.

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Good luck, what are you gonna try to grow?
2
I'm looking to grow dwarf HC, hairgrass, red crypts, crypt partva, anubias nana and petite.

Other suggestions for foreground cover, and background plants? I was looking at glosso... I also decided to make my own co2 regulator for a 5lb tank.


Here is my tank with my driftwood (dont ask how much I spent on that wood:/), I'm so lost on how I will do the hardscape. I think I need another bag of seachem black sand, there doesnt seem enough to make a slope to create depth

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Here it is with driftwood... still no rocks. I'm liking it so far, but want some opinions as far as balance goes. I Think it could use a longer branch going towards the back top left corner of the tank (Ive got spare driftwood I can cut into branches).

What do you guys think?

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Here it is with driftwood... still no rocks. I'm liking it so far, but want some opinions as far as balance goes. I Think it could use a longer branch going towards the back top left corner of the tank (Ive got spare driftwood I can cut into branches).

What do you guys think?
Guys... Here is my plant list, If you see any issues please speak up, and if you see any compatability issues between discus temp of around 84 for 2-3" discus and these plants... Please let me know!!!

Plant list is shown below:

Foreground
- Glosso
- patches of HC
- patches of crypt parva

Midground
- crypt wendtii green gecko
- crypt walkerie legro
- blyx japonica

Driftwood
-petite nana
-anubias nana
- pygmy chain or plain chain sword at base of some driftwoods
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please make sure your up to the task when it comes to discus...do a lot of research and know what your getting into..also co2 in a tank with discus I have heard can go either way..some have success others not so much..not trying to bring you down and I dont know your skill level..also with the pointy driftwood in the tank can be a trouble too!


Guys... Here is my plant list, If you see any issues please speak up, and if you see any compatability issues between discus temp of around 84 for 2-3" discus and these plants... Please let me know!!!

Plant list is shown below:

Foreground
- Glosso
- patches of HC
- patches of crypt parva

Midground
- crypt wendtii green gecko
- crypt walkerie legro
- blyx japonica

Driftwood
-petite nana
-anubias nana
- pygmy chain or plain chain sword at base of some driftwoods
Bump: also some of the plants you are suggesting dont need co2...of course co2 helps all plants but some of the plants are slow growing and are prone to getting covered with algae issues
You may want some bigger plants (stems etc) as well to cover some vertical height. Even stuff like Java Fern or other bushy epiphytes would be good.
I would slope the substrate a bit higher towards the back.
You'll need to soak the driftwood before you get the tank running by the way, or else you will have a serious MESS on your hands (you probably knew this already but just in case).


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So first, i have kept plants low to medium light for 6 years or so, aquariums for 10. No highlight plants though.

Ok ii know what you mean about the driftwood being messy, I've tried to boil it before but nothing seems to help... Tips?

As far as the slowgrowing plants getting algea, wwill that be the case regardless of co2? I'm guessing out of the plants i listed, the anubias will cause me trouble but the cryptd will be fine? can anyone suggest alternatives? I was planning to put anubias in shades areas at bottom of tank.

I believe the foreground plants I've selected will be fine as far as no algae and growth. someone please confirm.

Haven't heard the driftwood being bad for discusbefore. I assume it's because iit I pointy and sharp, but this risk is okfor me and if its bad I can move them.

I'm planning to add discus a long time after tank is established,have not had them before.
I'm gonna slope the substrate higher in the back behind the wood, I don't think I can make the driftwood much higher though since I'm using a lid.

Here are some background plants I'm looking at. (All off aquariumplants.com and aquabid.com)

-Green Temple Narrow Leaf (Hygro Corymbosa 'Siamensis')
-Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
-Ludwigia Peruensis (Ludwigia peruensis aka Ludwigia glandulosa).

Still could use some input on replacements for the anubias however. Or maybe I should just forget about it all together.
You said if we see any issues then speak up. I see two main issues:

1. Your stand needs more structural support. The weight of the tank is being held by screws. I would add a piece of wood or two in all corners supporting the top frame. This would help tremendously with support and torsion.

2. I would't recommend discus in a 40 breeder. It can be done, but its not best.
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You just need to keep soaking the wood till it sinks.
With good CO2 the slowgrowers (Anubias) shouldn't get algae ridden as well. Especially if they are shaded.


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Okay I was thinking if they were shaded they may be Ok. I'll keep them added to my stocklist and towards the bottom.

As far as structural issues with the stand, I apporeciate you looking it over, however the loadbearing part of the stand is the 4 2x4 columns which sit directly under the tank's plywood sheet and go directly to the ground. the screws hold it together but are not under stress. I've had the tank running for a few years in multiple locations so it will be OK. Planning to soak the driftwood this evening.

I've been reading in depth on other discus specific forums and this 40 would be a growout for 5-6 of them. I'm still deciding though because of the co2 injection the DIscus will not like the Ph swings between day and night.
Maybe just go for smaller schooling fish, so the fish don't take away from the hardscape (which I really like by the way!). The hardscape is really dynamic and big Discus may just drown it out. Although Discus are pretty damn gorgeous.
Soaking can take a while before it sinks, sometimes weeks. Another thing to do is just setting up the tank with it unsoaked, but put some rocks/other heavy objects to weigh it down until it doesn't float anymore.


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Opare, that's what I was thinking. maybe some nice rainbows amongst other school I fish. I may try discus despite the wood but we will see. I appreciate the input!

All ofI my co2 equipment is Coming in slowly but surely . I ended up buying a used Victor regulator... hhopefully it is still functional lol
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As far as structural issues with the stand, I apporeciate you looking it over, however the loadbearing part of the stand is the 4 2x4 columns which sit directly under the tank's plywood sheet and go directly to the ground. the screws hold it together but are not under stress. I've had the tank running for a few years in multiple locations so it will be OK. Planning to soak the driftwood this evening.
The tank's entire weight is under the hold of the screws. Rimmed tanks weight sits on the edges. That weight transfers down into your rectangular shape directly under the tank. This weight is transferred to your vertical 2x4's through the screws. It will probably be fine, but I've seen a lot of screws break. Why not just add a couple 2x4's and know if will be structurally sound?
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Thank you for the clarification, it didn't hit me that weight will be over those screws (before I had a acrylic tank and it wouldn't have been an issue). Thanks

I've been reading in depth on other discus specific forums and this 40 would be a growout for 5-6 of them. I'm still deciding though because of the co2 injection the DIscus will not like the Ph swings between day and night.
Regardless of co2, planted tanks make terrible grow out tanks for discus. They're fine for adults, but not young ones. With young discus, it is imperative that the water be beyond pristine - which with young fish that require a lot of food to grow properly means large daily water changes. Bare bottom tanks are typically recommended for growing discus because it's just not possible to clean the substrate (that's obviously required for planted tanks) to the degree that growing discus need. They can move to tanks with substrate once they're a bit older, but it's not a good plan with juveniles.

There isn't an inherent issue with discus and driftwood, but a very branchy piece with lots of pointy edges in a relatively small tank with relatively large fish is setting up for issues. It really hinders their swimming room as well as they're too big to maneuver in between most of the branches. They'll also just overpower the really neat driftwood. Imo, it needs smaller schooling fish that accent it vs compete with it.

Lastly, discus really do best in larger groups (not 2 or 3 as originally mentioned). In smaller groups, there can be a lot of aggression (they are cichlids afterall), and in a smaller tank like this, there's a lot less room for them to spread out and get away from aggressors.

You mentioned rainbows - a school of dwarf neon rainbows would be awesome in this tank, and would look great with the driftwood :)
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Alright well I've abandoned the discus idea. Now looking at other fish for this sucker. Got an exciting package from a who lesale rock supplier. Like 25 lbs of Seiryu stone shipped for 32 bucks! Soaking the wood right now so I can't add it yet, but here is a pic

Edit: I like those rainbow fish any other recommendations you have? I'd like a couple schools of 10 or so fish, and a predator or two to keep them schooling. Also gonna try a school of panda corys for ground crew, maybe some kuhlis to clean up good in the glosso carpet. Not sure if they would uproot an established glosso root system tho

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I know they're horribly common, but I really like the look of my neon tetras with my dwarf neon bows. The blue in the neons looks really good with the colors in the silver/red of the bows and they make a great accent without taking away from the bows because of the size difference (it's always my preference to have a pretty good size difference when keeping two types of schooling fish together). I'd do 10 bows and 15-20 neons if I was doing that tank, then a ground crew of some sort. I think the role of a predator fish is overrated, at least outside of really long tanks with true predators. Neither of dwarf neons or my neon tetras really "school" in my 46 bow, despite the presence of a couple of medium sized angelfish. I've seen it explained that the fish doesn't really feel the need to school tightly in most tanks because the smaller space means they can always see or quickly find their group. If you want a centerpiece fish though, maybe a pair of rams or a gourami of sort?

I've never kept kuhlis (nor glosso), but I think they'd be more prone to disturbing the glosso than cories would. I think a group of pandas would work really nicely in that setup.
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