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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
One of the great failings of LED's (esp "just" white) is the design flaw of being based on a blue LED and phosphors. Top it off w/ engineers refusing to push the phosphor limits to include certain spectrum components (notably cyan/violet/deep red) means LED's have a "look" short of their potential..and became a "good enough" product.
Well times are changing hopefully..
For the curious, I've mentioned Yuji and their violet pump based emitters before. Unfortunately the true violets were relegated (currently) to low output .5W emitters.
Their line of high CRI blue based do, at least, cover th deep red/cyan flaws but of course not the violet.
well found today (not exactly new) another "brand" (but AFAICT no "bare" chips) of lighting products for the more DIY inclined but not from scratch crowd.
Soraa..
Oddly enough the only "weakness" (and it is not very weak) is in Royal or deep blue..;)
Anyways here is a pr sheet:

A bit expensive and current variety is limited though:
https://www.earthled.com/collection...5watt-equal-95-cri-sr111-18?variant=896172761

For plants/people/ and fish it is worth considering...

Another source, link to 5000k (highest):
https://www.energyavenue.com/Soraa/5000K
 

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I wonder how the beam angle of 120 degrees is achieved on the LED's. Is it done with reflection or refraction? Working with the bulb, spot and cheaper Marine Land Hidden strips LED's that have very little beam angle has proven difficult because of burned leaves and strong algae growth. I am trying wax paper and angular glass to spread and lessen the intensity. I don't want to raise them so high off of the tank that it spills light all around the room. Using just cut/angular glass covering the lenses did not work for me, and I had to add four layers of wax paper. Amazingly the lights are still bright. I'm hoping they will grow plants this way until the industry catches up to planted tank needs with reasonable pricing, circuit boards that don't quit within a year, and that 120 angle.

I had great success with CFL's. Not so much with LED's yet, but I won't give up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wonder how the beam angle of 120 degrees is achieved on the LED's. Is it done with reflection or refraction?
small silicon or "plastic" lens .. Remember that "natively" the greatest angle one can have is 180-ish.. ;)

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A lot of their lamps are too narrow a beam dispersion of planted tank use.

Spots instead of floods. Also noted they don't have great watt to lumen output, I suppose this will improve with time.
Yea the 60 degree aren't too bad..Fairly low K as well but.. point is it is a start..

Tried to get some loose chips but no luck..
Yuji's 5730's are OK if one wants to do a smd array. Need lots of chips w/ a not so cheap price. Though to be honest not really more than "retail" name brand emitters..well maybe 2x at $1/.5W so $6 for 3w..
VTC Series High CRI SMD LED - VTC5730 - 100 pcs ? High CRI LED Webstore
Just a bit hard to deal w/ on a DIY level..
 

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I've got an old Compac laptop power supply/charger, 6 amps at 18 volts. It would be nice to have available an LED chip that could be run in series of it without needing an extra regulator circuit. It could drive a lot of lumens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I've got an old Compac laptop power supply/charger, 6 amps at 18 volts. It would be nice to have available an LED chip that could be run in series of it without needing an extra regulator circuit. It could drive a lot of lumens.
Yea 5 in series and 50 strings in parallel..125W..
Constant voltage w/ resistors..(4.7Ohm 1/4W on the end of every 5 leds)
105W of LED output..
$237... ;)
to do constant current you can get "LED display" drivers..
http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3599ff.pdf
 

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I know not the same as aquatic plants but here is the Yuji BC "cheap" $45 COB series LED growing orchids. These are in completely dark Mn basement all winter. This orchid starting blooming about a week ago. The COB is turned down to about 1/3 max brightness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
High CRI blue base emitters are still a step above the "normal" whites..
Still... knowing the high CRI high watt violets are out there and not really available to "normal" people in a DIY form is quite annoying.
Sorra won't sell loose chips and no word from a Korean supplier. of like product. Not holding my breath of course..
Luxeon makes "crisp white" COB's but at best a high of 4000k (may be specialty purchase) but mostly 3000k and "only" 90CRI
http://www.lumileds.com/uploads/482/DS138-pdf
got a Yuji design in the works if I decide to dump the $100 on sub-watt chips..
But it will be a hybrid of high CRI ww and High CRI violet cw design..
Don't want to learn Eagle for this though..
Anyone want to volunteer building an eagle (or related) file to spec???

Related:
Need to check this out a bit.........
http://www.unistars.com.tw/en/index.php
http://www.unistars.com.tw/en/uploa... High CRI LED Emitter Specifications_SV-4.pdf



South Korean company:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...sSK2R3zTQ&sig2=H6RXOzOcodn__nSggOQipQ&cad=rja
http://www.high-cri-led.com/ramax-technology/about-ramax.php
 

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Jeffkrol-
Those unistar LEDs use the same solder pad dimensions as the cree xp-g2. Check fleabay or cutter electronics for a pre-made bare PcB designed for the cree and solder in the unistar LEDs in their place. Easy as pie.
 

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Ahh.. now I get it? Gimme a few more details and I might be able to help you out. You want 8 channels with 3 yuji LEDs in series, a COB array smack dab in the middle, all on a 2.5" x 2.5" square? Sounds easy enough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Ahh.. now I get it? Gimme a few more details and I might be able to help you out. You want 8 channels with 3 yuji LEDs in series, a COB array smack dab in the middle, all on a 2.5" x 2.5" square? Sounds easy enough...
4 to 2 channels.. The 8x3 series diodes just need to be bridgeable one driver from 3
The last channel is the COB..
so really 2 channels but the option of 4.
3.6 x 8 = 28.8 driven at 120mA
120mA x 3 = 360mA
LDD-h350.. ;)
Unless I eventually just divide up the series parallel string of Yuji emitters..
Haven't decided yet.. but not likely . ;)

Something like this:


There is a 1"x1" hole in the circuit board so the Luminous COB will direct mount to the heat sink..But want the +/- to be attached to the circuit board. Not really necessary though..
SMD5730's flipped every other one so as to easily trace from one to another..PIA for placement though.. ;)
 

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I had a design idea similar to that. Mount a COB in the middle of a heatsink, then I was going to mount a strip on each of the 4 sides on separate channels.

My morning coffee read was the unistar datasheet.

Those unistars have lot a going for them....They should run nice and cool with a <4 thermal resistance as well!
I wonder how moisture sensitive they are?
 
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