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Could be any number of deficiencies or other problems. A few good quality photos are needed along with the ferts you are adding, the light fixture you have, and how long it is on for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Zapins, here's a few pic of my rotala butterfly mini, macrandras, and ludwigia Senegalensis.

The butterfly and macrandra dobt look that healthy and some of the new tips grow abnormal, stunted look.

I used t5ho 39 watts x 4 = 156 watts on 48 gallon with pressurized c02. Dose EI with dry ferts.

KNO3, kh2p04, csm+b, Chelated 10% iron... 50% we every week
 

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I use 156 watts on a 40breeder. Its a lot of light. I only use that much for 3 to 4 hours. Its a must to have everything in check. starting with your co2. If you have two ballast I would suggest running lower light to start as in 78 watts.

Running that high of light on 40 gallons or so you may have to be a bit more heavy handed on ferts.

How do you diffuse your co2 and how do you know its high enough?
 

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This frequently happens to R. macrandra, this is why it is considered a difficult plant to grow. It is finicky and occasionally does this kind of thing.

Is that tank newly set up with aquasoil? If so, what are the ammonia levels in the tank?

How long are the lights on for?

How much of each nutrient are you adding and how often?
 

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Can be green spotted algae too. I am currently running the same exact amount of light in my tank and have finally found the way to beat most algae blooms in my 50 gal. Dude all 4 bulbs running for 10-12 hours is too much let alone 6-8 is still too much. I have the fixture where there are 3 electric plugs instead of all built in one. Some may argue that the all in one plug is a lot simple but if you want to intense your light up another notch (if you know what I mean, the extra kick at mid day that boosts their growth to the extent that they can reach), you can't with the all in one because that'll be too much light for extended periods if you have timers set. I have dwarf hair grass, glosso and pogo helferi in the front of my tank so the two front bulbs are my main focus but balance is always key. First I turn my co2 on for 1 hour before switching any lights. When my co2 reader reaches lime green, I then flip on my back switch. Let it kick for an hour two until the co2 reads "pure" yellow. Then I flip on the front lights and let both lights run with the co2 running for about another hour to two. The co2 then goes off and so does the back light. Let it run for another hour or two and then lights go off. This method save my but a lot from scraping algae and seeing plants covered in algae. The most I tried was 8 hours altogether from light on to off. Though I would recommend applying this method for 6 hours first and see if you need to decrease or increase the time duration of when both light kicks on. I wish that I have timers on my plug :wink: Soon I will. Don't be afraid to test your tank with yellow reading of co2. I have found through experience that the more gallons you have, the more your fish can bare. I've let mines stay yellow ever since the first day that i got my co2 set up and have never seen one fish gulp for air but they do hide more in this co2 level. Oh yeah and I really can't answer about the tip turning like dark dark green. So dark that it almost look like the plant is melting. The only plant that I encounter growing like this was my java fern. Idk man java's just don't really run in my tank. Some plants just ain't meant to be in your tank you know?
 

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If you are talking about what the 1st and 2nd picture shows then that is green spot algae. This is mainly caused by 2 things. Phosphate deficiency or your tank is brand new and the silicone is still leaching out silicate. Green spot algae feeds on silicate too. I advise you to up your phosphate dosage if you are encountering green spot algae. Trust me, it will slowly die away. If you are referring to the 3rd picture then the cause can be of many reasons. I doubt light is one but can be because my java fern is in a low lighted area as floating plants float right above it. To me I don't even know the cause but I would say its either potassium or if its still the same stem that you received way back when. I noticed some of my plants had to like completely die off in order for the new shoots to grow up adapted and show colors according to what your water chemistry hold. My Bolbitis H. is a very good example. Came with 3 long leaves but they all just pearled but never grew also decaying too altogether. As time went on I nearly pulled it out but didn't only because I was lazy at that time and a month later... It grew new stems and I was amazed at how it was able to bounce back. I only learn everything that I can when I am patient enough :icon_smil
 

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You think the stunted tip growth is caused by too much light??

I used a glass diffuser at 3bpm

I hope you mean 3bps.
Some claim to use 2bps 3bps whatever the count. I am not sure if they want to have the lowest bubble count in the world or if they are being truthful.
As for me I have never even be close to this low. I am usually at 7 to 8 or just plain uncountable. That has been with reactors....diffusors ...atomic diffusors....ect...ect..

Check your Co2. You have a lot of light. Usually a problem with ferts will start with your fastest grower showing signs. If you act when the first sign shows you can remedy the issue quickly. I just restarted my tank back up after a 3 or 4 year break. I bought some Myriophyllum Mattogrossense. Its a fast plant and a good indicator. Within a day or two of my start up it began to pale a bit at the new growth. I new I bottomed out on nitrate.... I added more and within a couple hours you could see the plant regaining color.

All of these abilities to see the problem take time and experience. I for one do not know nor claim to know all about this hobby. I do know from experience that if your Co2 is right you have a chance. If its not you are doomed.

Do you have fish? How do you know where you are on co2?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since I am running 156 watts in a 48 gallon, i just turned the co2 higher today to 6bpm. I read a thread by Tom Barr and he said stunted growth is caused by low co2.

I have ada soil and ammonia is 0. This tank been up for 6 months.
 

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If they are using EI, it's not a fert thing, this is a water change and CO2 issue. If the KH is higher, that might be some of it, say 4(71 ppm) or higher KH.

This is why EI is particularly useful to hobbyists, you can easily rule things out like this and then move on to other potential issues, typically light/CO2.
 
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