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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, so I’ve had this little guy for about 4 months. Up until today when I cleaned their tank he has been doing fine. Now his eyes are looking really weird and he is hovering around the top of the tank. Does anyones know what this is? How can I help him?
Water Vertebrate Liquid Fluid Organism

Water Liquid Fin Fluid Fish
 

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Might be pop eye but I am not great with identifying fish illnesses. How often are you changing water and how long has tank been setup? and what are your tank measurements of ammonia nitrite nitrate and ph? Why is it that you think your PH is not good? If you have just been using tap water I personally wouldnt change your water parameters while your fish is trying to recover from whatever is ailing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Might be pop eye but I am not great with identifying fish illnesses. How often are you changing water and how long has tank been setup? and what are your tank measurements of ammonia nitrite nitrate and ph? Why is it that you think your PH is not good? If you have just been using tap water I personally wouldnt change your water parameters while your fish is trying to recover from whatever is ailing it.
I change every week or two. Ammonia .5, nitrate 0, nitrite 0.5-1 (in between) the ph is low. Tank has been setup for around the same time. We made a rookie mistake and didn’t let the tank fully cycle. Now it seems to have cycled though.
 

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ammonia and nitrite of anything other than 0 is usually indicative of not being cycled which usually takes a month or more. You should probably do water changes daily or very least every other day to maintain water quality for your fish while he is ill. Are you measuring these using test strips or liquid tests? You may also want to look up how to do a fish in cycle.

You didnt give a number for the PH. How does your PH look compared to water out of the tap? Are you using RO water? softened water? Do you have aqua soil in the tank that can be buffering your water?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ammonia and nitrite of anything other than 0 is usually indicative of not being cycled which usually takes a month or more. You should probably do water changes daily or very least every other day to maintain water quality for your fish while he is ill. Are you measuring these using test strips or liquid tests? You may also want to look up how to do a fish in cycle.

You didnt give a number for the PH. How does your PH look compared to water out of the tap? Are you using RO water? softened water? Do you have aqua soil in the tank that can be buffering your water?
Sorry bout that. So we have strips right now, also the ph is 5.5. Out of the tap it’s 7.5. I only have a gravel substrate because I don’t have plants currently. Where I live they are difficult to come by.
 

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5.5? Are you adding CO2?
That sounds awfully low for the usage of tap water. Then again, strips can be wrong.

Pop-eye can have several causes:

  • Gas bubble disease
  • Too much CO2
  • Bacterial infection
  • Injury from a little fight
  • Too high ammonia or nitrite level

You need to figure out, which one of those it is.
As a first countermeasure, you should do a quick water change to reduce the germs/pathogens. Use water that has about fish tank temperature, let it sit in the bucket for a few minutes before you put it in the tank and slowly let it run in. The gas bubbles form mostly because of the high temperature difference and the water going in too quickly from too much height.

Does the fish have any other weird things you can see, like red spots?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
5.5? Are you adding CO2?
That sounds awfully low for the usage of tap water. Then again, strips can be wrong.

Pop-eye can have several causes:

  • Gas bubble disease
  • Too much CO2
  • Bacterial infection
  • Injury from a little fight
  • Too high ammonia or nitrite level

You need to figure out, which one of those it is.
As a first countermeasure, you should do a quick water change to reduce the germs/pathogens. Use water that has about fish tank temperature, let it sit in the bucket for a few minutes before you put it in the tank and slowly let it run in. The gas bubbles form mostly because of the high temperature difference and the water going in too quickly from too much height.

Does the fish have any other weird things you can see, like red spots?
Hey so just wanted to say thanks for your help. I don’t add co2 to the tank. I do know this guy gets nipped but the yellow guppy. I have noticed a slight change in color but I think it’s maturing age maybe. I know with the ph. I can’t figure it out. I’ll probably order a liquid test kit. I’ve also ordered some aquarium salt to help him.
 

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Yes maybe retest your pH with the test kit.
pH dropping by 2 points and to that low level without adding CO2 is more than strange. Or do you add anything else to your tank?

If the colors got pale, that might also be stress from the fights.

2 points pH is about 100 times as much CO2 as there is in your tap water, do you use soil?
But even then, without a CO2 system, even a ton of driftwood and no aeration shouldn't lower it that much.

Did you clean anything with vinegar in the tank before starting it? Like soaking a root in it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes maybe retest your pH with the test kit.
pH dropping by 2 points and to that low level without adding CO2 is more than strange. Or do you add anything else to your tank?

If the colors got pale, that might also be stress from the fights.

2 points pH is about 100 times as much CO2 as there is in your tap water, do you use soil?
But even then, without a CO2 system, even a ton of driftwood and no aeration shouldn't lower it that much.

Did you clean anything with vinegar in the tank before starting it? Like soaking a root in it?
Yeah. I highly suspect the strips are wrong. However all that is I. The tank is decor and a couple fake plants. I don’t clean with anything in particular. Just water. The only thing could be the water here. We get from a spring and the water has a lot of minerals and aeration when it gets put in
 

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Yeah. I highly suspect the strips are wrong. However all that is I. The tank is decor and a couple fake plants. I don’t clean with anything in particular. Just water. The only thing could be the water here. We get from a spring and the water has a lot of minerals and aeration when it gets put in
What are you treating your tap water with when you add it?
 

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Two things here…



I seriously doubt your pH is actually 5.5. I would, under no circumstances, add pH up to this tank until you’re confident that your pH is actually that low. Buy the liquid pH kit or a pH pen to measure the water.



I’m like 95% sure that this fish is sick because your tank isn’t cycled. You need to do a water change ASAP to lower the ammonia and nitrite in your water. Use Seachem Prime after the water change to bind both ammonia and nitrite. Read up on how to do a fish-in cycle, and start following those instructions immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Two things here…



I seriously doubt your pH is actually 5.5. I would, under no circumstances, add pH up to this tank until you’re confident that your pH is actually that low. Buy the liquid pH kit or a pH pen to measure the water.



I’m like 95% sure that this fish is sick because your tank isn’t cycled. You need to do a water change ASAP to lower the ammonia and nitrite in your water. Use Seachem Prime after the water change to bind both ammonia and nitrite. Read up on how to do a fish-in cycle, and start following those instructions immediately.
Yeah that’s what I thought. I’ve bought a liquid tester kit. Also, I will start a fish in cycle, after he heals a bit. Till then I’m going to be doing water changes.

Also update he is doing pretty good today, the swelling has gone down in his eyes.
 

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Yeah that’s what I thought. I’ve bought a liquid tester kit. Also, I will start a fish in cycle, after he heals a bit. Till then I’m going to be doing water changes.
You have fish in a tank that isn't fully cycled so you're currently doing a fish-in cycle.

Taking care of the ammonia and nitrite and doing water changes is what's going to make him better. He's currently dying.
 

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the pH Up product will NOT help you. It is a worthless product. If ever you wish to lower or increase pH, it is better done using buffers such as Acid Buffer and Alkaline Buffer. I keep a container of Seachem Acid Buffer, Equilibrium, and Alkaline Buffer on a shelf near my planted tank if ever needed. I don't need them alot but they are MUCH more effective than using the API pH Up and pH Down products which believe me are useless. They may temporarily adjust pH for a very short while but using buffering products are much much better for you to keep on hand.

You may have other issues going on but I am only responding to your topic about the API pH Up/Down products.

I suggest a reference book that lists common fish illnesses. Try to see if you can isolate the problem to bacteria or fungus or other. There are a variety of products out there such as API General Cure, Copper Power Green, Methylene Blue, Aquarium Salt that you may wish to consider having on hand as well. Prevention is always better than treatment after the fact. Based upon how many fish you have in the tank, isolation of an affected fish in a quarantine tank is advisable to reduce the chances of other fish getting the same infection.

My 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
the pH Up product will NOT help you. It is a worthless product. If ever you wish to lower or increase pH, it is better done using buffers such as Acid Buffer and Alkaline Buffer. I keep a container of Seachem Acid Buffer, Equilibrium, and Alkaline Buffer on a shelf near my planted tank if ever needed. I don't need them alot but they are MUCH more effective than using the API pH Up and pH Down products which believe me are useless. They may temporarily adjust pH for a very short while but using buffering products are much much better for you to keep on hand.

You may have other issues going on but I am only responding to your topic about the API pH Up/Down products.

I suggest a reference book that lists common fish illnesses. Try to see if you can isolate the problem to bacteria or fungus or other. There are a variety of products out there such as API General Cure, Copper Power Green, Methylene Blue, Aquarium Salt that you may wish to consider having on hand as well. Prevention is always better than treatment after the fact. Based upon how many fish you have in the tank, isolation of an affected fish in a quarantine tank is advisable to reduce the chances of other fish getting the same infection.

My 2 cents
Well, for now I’m going to not worry so much about it. I’m doing daily water changes and decided to just buy a larger tank, cycle it, and move the fish. Also I’ve been treating him with salt and he is better.
 
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