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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to start with Rex's basic dosing for my high lighted heavy planted tank. His dosing is here. my questions is about making the solutions and dosing hte correct amounts.

I made the solutions per his directions. For instance:
Mix 2 tablespoons CSM+B (30 grams) with 2 cups (473 ml) of water.
Then his instructions say dose 10ml of that solution. Simple enough.

But this is less clear:
Mix 1½ teaspoon KH2PO4(7.2 grams) with 250 ml of water
Then his instructions say 1/8th teaspoon KH2PO4 three times a week
1/8 tsp of the solution or 0.5 ml, correct? Or is that 1/8 tsp of the dry?

color me confused.
 

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Sup WarDaddy.
It depends on what size tank you have and the levels of NPK and trace you're aiming for.
Some of Rex's information is better off left alone. You can fool around with your own premixed solutions using Chuck Gadd’s dosing calculator or add dry ferts directly to the tank. It's up to you.

Stock Solutions:
Each stock solution is 500 mL of distilled water

KNO3 (2 Tablespoon)
+ K2SO4 (1/2 Tablespoon) = NK
CSM+B Trace mix (1 Tablespoon)
+ DTPA Fe, (1 tsp) = trace
KH2PO4 (1 Tablespoon) = Phosphate

For every mL of stock solution added to a 20 gallon tank:

1mL NK solution
KNO3 = 0.54 ppm Nitrate (0.34 ppm Potassium)
+ K2SO4 = .11 ppm Potassium
1mL CSM+B solution
+ DTPA Fe = 0.04 ppm Fe
1mL KH2PO4 solution = 0.27 ppm Phosphate
Example:
to raise the nitrate levels in a 20 gallon tank by 8 ppm divide 8 by 0.54 to find approximately 15 mL of NK solution is needed.

or

add it dry - for a 20 Gal:
GH booster: 1/4 tsp after water change
(K+, Mg, Ca are more like plain old salt in terms of use by plants. They can be fairly high and left there.)
1/4 tsp of KNO3 2-3x a week
(or 15mL NK solution from above)
Dose 1/16 tsp CSM+B 2-3 x a week
(or 5mL CSM+B solution from above)
1/16th of the KH2PO4 2-3x a week
(or 4mL PO4 solution from above)
That's it.
 

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Once you get your mind wrapped around it, dosing is rather routine. Simple enough even I can do it. :proud: What will take the most observation, when you keep fish in the same tank, is adding CO2. Water flow, O2 and CO2 all need to be optimized to benefit the plants and keep the fish healthy. You'll get bored with the ferts soon enough. Thats what makes EI so appealing. The testing is not necessary. Once you confirm that for yourself you'll be able to save a lot of time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tug, your post helped me a lot. I was confused by the amount of trace that he had me dosing, 10 ML seems way too much. Turns out I need more in the neighborhood of 1 ml of that 3x a week. That makes way more sense.

So I am beginning my dosing now... but with not running halides yet, I am dosing at 1/4 strength, and will bring it up to full strength as my lighting period and cycle completes.

Thanks for the help
 

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Looks like we might not be done yet. I can't tell you all of the wherefores and whatnots (I'm still trying to get a friend of mine to check the math with CSM+B) but the general consensus is for a 20 gallon tank you dose 5 mL of the trace solution we just made. A 40 gallon tank dose would be 10 mL 2-3 x a week.

So I am beginning my dosing now... but with not running halides yet,
You will never need the amount of light your going to get from that MH, sorry. Lighting advice is not really my expertise but starting out less is always better. IMHO, that MH is going to get you knee deep in algae.

I am dosing at 1/4 strength, and will bring it up to full strength
Reducing the number of times you dose is better then reducing the amount of dose. Keeping the dose the same provides non-limiting levels when you do dose. If you don't need to dose three times a week thats fine. Just when you do dose, dose the same amount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The MH gives the tank something like 3.75+/- watts per gallon. The light is pretty high above the tank, about 15". I am running that light because of the $$$ to replace it with 100 watts of t-5. I would prefer to have 150 watts of t-5, but it is not in the budget. A $25 bulb was in the cards, where $80 in t5 bulbs and 60 in reflectors and ballasts are not :)

Interesting with the trace elements, thanks for the help. Getting the solutions made and then figuring out exactly how much to add of that solution has me scratching my head. Once I have the formula down, I am looking forward to getting the routine going. :)

I will post a complete break down of my solutions, and how much of that solution I am using tomorrow. It is always good to have other people to confirm my thought process. I can not wait to see the plants growing and some fish in the water :)
 

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Tug,
thanks for the help
Very appreciated, even though I sometimes cross the line into memory loss. I'll push off; gives yea off the bay.
"Not sure why so many love canisters, they are nice and all, I've tended towards wetdrys, HOB's myself.
But canisters are nice also, if you use the better ones." -Tom Barr, http://www.barrreport.com/


Like that arr algae grower? That RFUG, is not denitrification yeae britches away in that thar rapture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tug, you have not scared em away... I went back to 10ml of CSM+B If I have a few minutes in the next few days I will post the solutions I made and the dosing I am using for review. Right now my primary focus is CO2, and getting that right. I have been trolling at the Barr Report and he has an interesting design for reclaiming out gassed CO2 by placing the return line a sealed box so that all the gasses that are captured there can be routed to a reactor. I am going to play around and see what I can come up with to mimic his suggestion in my sump. Biggest issue I have is making it easy to get the Filter Sock in and out of the chamber. poor little sump is becoming full again :)
 
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