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Discussion Starter #1
Right now i am in Baton Rouge finishing my summer internship. I will be returning right back to my school Sept 6th which is in MN.

When i get back to school i will be starting a new tank. I started with a 10g at college and now i am tricking the system by going with a 29 since it can pass off as a 20g (which is the limit). I bough the aquarium, stand, filter, heater, lights and powerhead on craigslist for 100$.

Here is a quick description of what i have:
Stand
10lb co2 cylinder
Spectra Gases Reg (Stainless Steel and super high grade, with a 580 nipple)
Filter: Discription from craigslist. "Its a HOB, it has a bio wheel and can hold 2 filter cartriges. It is good up to 50 gallons."
Lighting: 30" 2x65W Coralife (50/50 bulbs)
That is all i won for co2 but l will buy the rest when i get back
UV light (just in case)
Powerhead: 75 gallon/hour

What I want to get:

Substrate:
Seachem Flourite Black

Diffuser I am not to sure about this one but it looks good. Any suggestion?
I also need a solenoid, bubble counter, and check valve. I was thinking this.
O am also thinking about splitting the co2 and use some of it in my 10g

Fish:
Mating pair of Blue Rams
Mating pair of Dwarf Gourami
Algae eaters (some dwarf pleco, siamese algae eater's, ottos)
and most of the community fish from my 10g (tetra, platy, danios)

I have an established 10g with lots of plants and two 18w lights over it and lot of plants. I want to breed some blue rams and gourami's. I will install a sponge filter in my 10g and hopefully i can use that as a breeding tank.

As far as aqua-scape i am going to make the gravel into 2 levels, like this.
I really liked glmory's design. On the lower level i will want some grass plants (tall in the back and low growing grasses in the front) maybe Dwarf Hairgrass or Glosso in the front with Corkscrew vals in the back.

On the back wall i want to build a moss wall/rock cave mix. (diy project)

On the higher end i am going to build a cave for the rams and i want a nice piece of drift wood. I am thinking the drift wood will be slanted and laying one end on the cave. As far as plants in that area it is still tbd.

Any suggestions on plants? I am also thinking about splitting the co2 and use some of it in my 10g breeder so grow some plants for the fish to hide in. Should i do that? Is that diffuser good? Any suggestions or ideas? Dry ferts? Drop checker ideas?
 

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Definitely go for dry ferts. It is much, much cheaper not to mention easier.

I use an AC20 powerhead to diffuse CO2 in my 29g. I needed the extra flow in my tank to begin with so I use it to accomplish both. Works pretty well, not as good as an inline reactor but still effective.

And remember if you split the CO2 you will need a manifold and two needle valves. Otherwise one tank(whichever offers the least resistance to the CO2) will get all the gas.

And the 29g works great with tall plants. Plants like vals and swords look good in them IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I might get an Eheim Filter 2213, if i do i might build the rex reactor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is that going to replace the HOB? If so I find the Eheim 2213 barely adequate for my 20 gallon so I would get a 2217.
Really? I thought that the filter would be more than enough. Of not then i guess i would use both. Mmmm, I expected it would be more than enough.
 

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If you put a reactor inline, you'll need a larger Eheim.

I've got a 2217 on my own 29gal ATM and it blows the fish and plants all over the place (it's just temporary till I set back up my 46gal) but an inline reactor may slow that flow level down to perfect.

I'd say at least a 2215. Or a Rena XP3.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The reason i am looking at the 2213 is because of this. If it is sold I might consider buying a 2215 but the large sicker price is really holding me back. Would i be ok with the HOB and a smaller filter? How would i then dissolve the CO2?
 

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Fresh Fish Freak
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HOBs will outgas CO2 unless you're diligent about keeping the tank topped off.

Another option is to use a powerhead to both boost flow and to diffuse CO2. If you stick a sponge prefilter on the powerhead it will also serve to boost your mechanical and bio filtration.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
whats is the difference from the eheim classic 2215 and the eheim ecco 2234? And what would be recommended?
 

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I strongly recommend against the 2213. That is what I originally bought for my new 29g but there wasn't enough flow. After a few weeks I moved some things around an put a 2215 on it along with a powerhead and saw growth dramatically increase.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
yeah, i am now(*edit) looking at 2215's. how are you configuring the powerhead? i have never used a powerhead before so i dont know exactly what you mean.

*edit
sorry i did not mean not i meant now
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If i buy a 2215 is the power head needed, since the flow is increased already? or so i still need it? and thi powerhead would be put in the input of the rex reactor instead of the 2215 or would both be going in the inflow of the reactor?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Also, what plants would be good for the driftwood side, seeing as i am going to be have high wpg and [pressurized co2? As far as ferts, i have never used them. What am i aiming for? I still need to buy a freshwater kit but i think any would do. Which ferts should i buy?
 

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For the powerhead I went with a Koralia 1 that I had from another tank. Here is a url:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=15955

I probably isn't needed right now, but maybe after I hook up the inline reactor since flow will slow down a bit. I release co2 through a GLA diffuser currently, but according to the drop checker and resulting growth there is enough co2 in the water column.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have found some filters and wondering which would be the best for my future set up.


80$ each for the fluval and cascade

"fluval 305.. rated up to 70 gallon..*still new in and out...the filter pads are still new plus carbon ...*I never replace it yet because they look like brand new..*you can check it out*before you buy it.
cascade 1000 ..*rated*up to*100 gallon.......both canister are in very good shape.. they both look brand new to me....filter pads*and carbon are clean"


This one also 80$
Rena Filster XP2 Canister filter

Pro II Canister Filter with Media - 2026 -100$

I am leaning towards the eheim 2026


Also should I buy an RO system? There is one for sale for 60 bucks with this description:

Don't*remember*and it doesn't say*on it anywhere. But it wouldn't matter because all*what the* plastic white cover*basically is a housing for the media.*It has four compartments. Three on the bottom, one on the top for the final*micron* filter (was replaced 8 months ago but considering that this filter lasts for 3 years (or over 10,000 gal, it doesn't need replacing for a long time), the other three are still good and will*probably be*good for 2000 gallons.* I don't use the RO unit much, just for my 28 gallon tank, which requires only 20 gallons*a week. So, depending on how much you are going to filter, the unit as is will filter out about 2000 before you would need to change anything in it. The unit is always in use so there is no dried media*(once the filters*were in use, they must be in use all the time or they'd need a replacement because they*dried out).


Thanks in advance.
 

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Which ferts should i buy?
KNO3 - for nitrate and potassium
KH2PO4 - for phosphate
GH Booster or Seachem's Equilibrium if your water is soft
K2SO4 - optional for extra potassium
CSM+B - for trace (other good trace mixes are Seachem's Flourish {comprehensive} and Tropica's Plant nutrition liquid)

GLA
AquariumFertilizers.com
Rex Grigg

EDIT: I see that you already have some info.
 

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