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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a new table to hold my fish tank. It wasn't made for a fish tank so I'm paranoid that it is going to fail. I've had it on there for about a week and I'm convinced the left side is bowing out. For peace of mind, I'd like to reinforce it. My idea was to put a single 2x2 at the back under each shelf (so a total of 4 2x2's). I'd secure them with screws on either side.

Do you think this would sure up the stand? Do you have any better suggestions I could try?

 

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Wood is stronger on end rather than horizontally. Placing 2x2 where you are suggesting could potentially help make the stand more rigid but you would still need to have a better means of bringing the weight to the ground. This may be achieved by running some 2x2s vertically as well. I'm also wondering what size tank you have on top to consider how much weight you are supporting?
 

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I would not go that far but some of the same. At the second red line, I would go for a 1X2 with the broad side to the front. Fastened with glue to the shelf and screws at each end, this will be plenty to keep the sides from bowing out. Use a good wood glue and be sure to scrape the paint, etc off the bottom of the shelf so the glue can penetrate to real wood not just the finish? Clamping while gluing would be nice.The weight of the tank will be fine since the weight can be supported at the ends only without a problem. That weight can't go down if the corners are supported.
That brings the question of how those corners are built at the bottom. We can't see if the wood at the bottom corners are down to the floor or if they end and are held up by being attached to the trim. If the wood extends to the floor directly, fine, but if not, I recommend adding blocks of wood at the inside bottom of each corner so that the weight is on a stack of solid wood, top to bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The tank is 10 gallons so with rocks + decorations its around 100lbs.

@Planted Rich - I'm not sure I followI'm not sure I follow. Do you mean run a 1x2 horizontally from back to front? Glue the 1" side to the shelf and screw the 2" side to the side?

** Edit: The side pieces go straight to the ground the outside piece at the bottom is just the facade
 

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Is there any particle board in this unit? If it is in the vertical or shelves then there would be so much reinforcing to do you might as well get a new stand.

I'd be screwing the shelves down all the way across the stand to prevent bowing. They are probably supported with dowels that are pulling free. Using L brackets is likely to be needed in the center to get that done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is there any particle board in this unit? If it is in the vertical or shelves then there would be so much reinforcing to do you might as well get a new stand.

I'd be screwing the shelves down all the way across the stand to prevent bowing. They are probably supported with dowels that are pulling free. Using L brackets is likely to be needed in the center to get that done.
This is solid wood, no particle board.

Thanks for the L-bracket suggestion, never thought of that.
 

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Sorry, Got a better look now and see that the center upright is a single piece instead of the shelf as a single piece. What I had proposed was a single piece under the shelf left/right but that won't work.
That's a nice old piece that should be saved!! But the warping seems to be not too uniform. At the back of the left there looks to be more movement than at the front. Or is that look from the finish not being applied the same?
From the larger gap at the top of unfinished board and looking at the amount inside at top left, it looks like the whole may be leaning a bit toward the right as we view it? Does it wiggle if pushed left/ right? This might be the major problem and might need the back attached or perhaps a stronger back if it is some of the really thin stuff. Maybe the whole would be fine if pressed back to stand straight up and a good solid back placed to avoid leaning sideways called "racking"? Just some thoughts to check.
The problem with old wood which is bowed is that it resists being pulled back straight without some large clamps like a bar clamp to reach fully across the front left and right.
 

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Just reinforce each shelf and each level with reinforced L brackets the type found at building supply shops,

My 10g is in a simple box, look at what the jewel Rio cabinets are made of mdf, or even chipboard with a melamine cover,

Cabinets built by most members of these forums are often over built by there ego,

As long as the edges and corners have a support running to the floor, it will hold,my do it for a living, some of the stuff IV seen on some of the stupidest looking stands would shock you, but Gravity is our friend

You have two options, running 1x1 ad own the middle of all shelfs and side woods, so making a box in each level, would reinforce it, and a new fibber board back

Job done
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey all, ended up putting some wood screws in the sides and some L-brackets on each of the shelves. Also put a cross brace in the back.

Here are the screws in the sides at each shelf. I’m going to put another bit of stain on them tonight, the pic makes it look like they are a lot more noticeable than they actually are.



The following two are shots of the L-Brackets I put on each shelf. I had to use decorative ones on the base of the shelve to hide them. The ones on top are fine because you can't see them unless you look inside the shelf.





Here is a pic of the cross brace I put in the back. It’s a 1x2 piece of wood running from the top corner to the bottom opposite corner.



The finished product! Much sturdier than before.



Bonus pic of the kitty cat who seemed a little too curious with the tank on the floor. Had to keep it there while I was repairing the stand.

 
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