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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, got the double heater module in the mail yesterday and it is HUGE! Luckily, I have a taller stand and even then it may be a squeeze. Was checking the dimensions again seeing if I could use a single but they only take heaters 12" long (probably a heater <200 watts) which wouldn't be big enough for my 130 even with the inline hydor :(.

OK, here's the trouble, the directions are a joke. Here's a link to the instructions provided:

http://www.marineandreef.com/PDF/R175149_AF_SERIES.pdf

They put in the box a couple of fittings and some teflon tape, but how does this all go together? I decided to also get a single chemical module yesterday, so it'll be attached too. Does anybody have first hand experience putting these things together? Do I need to glue or is it secure (leak free) with just compression and tape? (this scares me especially if there is any back pressure anytime down the line). Instead of the Quiet one pump, I'm getting an Eheim 1060 pump (but I also have a Mag 5 pump too). Also, does the top of the heater stick out of the heater module? How much goes in and will that rubber O ring deteriorate after a while being exposed to the hot heater?

Any help with this thing will be appreciated!

Tina
 

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It will be OK!

Tina,

Can you tell me all he components of your modular system from pump to tank return?

The modules will operate without glue. Many people prefer to PVC the units together to avoid possible separations. The system operates at very low pressures and shouldn't come apart on its own. Knocking them over is another thing though!!

The heater module: There is an o ring that will fit your heater. Yes the top of the heater sticks out of the module so you can adjust the temp. There is no risk of melting, this is not a hot section of your heater. Because of water flow, the heater module remains relatively cool.

Using teflon tape is critical to avoid leaks at the connections. The only place you don't need them is at the heater insertion where the o-ring functions.

Let me know more specifics so I can try to help.

-Karl
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Karl,

I've found a good site with pictures, but it still isn't too clear:

Cloudy Tanks Rainbow Lifegard Review

They had some push in parts that had threaded holes and I was wondering do I put teflon tape on those too?

I was going to put on the chemical module (was thinking Purigen or some other media in there), then the heater module and then the Hydor 300 heater after that. the two heaters will be controlled by another temperature controller. Also, I was thinking of using Magnum double tap connectors for shut offs, but they show another type of valve in the pictures. Is there another source for these valves without buying that Pentair kit?

Tina
 

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Tina,

Are you not going to use a AF-94 mechanical module?


Teflon tap should be wrapped around any threaded connection but not the slip connections.

I used the Magnum disconects on one of my lifegard systems. They work great, just make sure they are the right size for the tubes you are using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, no mechanical module, I'll put an intake sponge on it. This filter is secondary to the Fluval FX5 and is mainly to get the heaters out of the tank. So, those slip connections are tight enough not to leak without any tape?

I got the 5/8" connections that are used for the 350.


Hmmm, I was thinking I could also use it to drain water during water changes :).

Tina
 

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Yes the slip connectors are fine, but honestly I would just pvc glu them together to be safe. The use of threaded connectors, like in the link you provided is more difficult to get right initially, but would allow you to add additional modules at a later time.

I modified a chemical module and use it as a CO2 reactor. If you are interested, let me know and I'll provide details.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I'd like the details of converting the module :) (though I'm scared to death of using CO2, LOL).

Tina
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, I confess, I'm primarily a discus keeper and have seen too many horror stories of the CO2 tank being too high or emptying too much in the tank and killing off all the fish.

I just had a bad episode with that tank already and lost 12 discus to a low oxygen situation when the spraybar came undone and went below water :(. Just getting it resituated again.

My 46 gallon bow I had before had plants and discus and was low tech, going to try this one low tech too at first, but you guys may persuade me with some of the plants and pictures to come to the other side. :)

Tina
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I hear that the probes wear out over time? How often do they need to be calibrated and/or replaced?

Tina
 

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I hear that the probes wear out over time? How often do they need to be calibrated and/or replaced?

Tina
Once a month calibration with at least pH 7 calibration fluid. Some people do pH 4 calibration also. This is for the Milwaukee controller that most people use.
 
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