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Help! Oscar is dying!!!

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Okay I made some serious mistakes. My 6 inch oscar in a 40 gallon tank had ick so I tried treating with "Ick Remedy"

day 1- 4 I used ick remedy directions 25% water changes and medicine everyday. I noticed he had locked fins so I discontinued using idk (only sponge filter)

day 5- 25% water change 10 teaspoons of salt ( Switched to salt ick treatment)(only sponge filter)

day 6- 25% water change 15 teaspoons of salt -changed temperature from 82-86F(only sponge filter)

day 7- 25% water change 15 teaspoons of salt- Changed temp from 86-89F(only sponge filter) Seemed better so decided to give another dose of the "Ick remedy"(Really bad idea!)

day 8- oscar showing very little movement, not eating and laying on its side- 25% water change 9am-25% water change noon(changed temp back to 82)- 25 % water change 8pm added bubble line(only sponge filter)

day 9- oscar showing in less movement- 25% water change 7 am- 25% water change noon -9pm oscar not moving I set up 3 air lines with air stones I have switch the sponge filters I had to a carbon packages to my hang over the back cheap 60 . I added a 110 Fluvial back hang filter with sponge, carbon, and biomes. tank readings(test strip)- Nitrate 20, Nitrate 0, hardness 75, alkalinity 80, PH 7.2

day 10- Oscar is not moving much but still alive


Please help me! I love my fish. I just bought him a huge tank this past weekend to transfer him into.

Thanks
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Stop changing treatments and stick to one. Meds will not be effective when you have a carbon filter in as it will remove the medication.

My suggestion would be to do a large 50% water change, put in a new carbon filter. Increase water temp to 87 and increase the surface agitation as Warner water holds less dissolved oxygen. Do a 25% water change every 2 days using a conditioner like seachem prime. Keep the temp at 87 for 14 days. This usually works without any casualties but at this point your fish is not doing well and may not make it so prepare yourself for that. I would discontinue salt at this point. Oxygenation is very key so extra air stones lowering the waterline if you have a HOB filter etc. are good options.

This is what has worked for me others may have different suggestions

Dan

Make sure the water your adding to the tank is the same temp as your tank. With tour fish in poor shape already you need to avoid as much stress as possible.

Dan
 

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What is your ammonia and nitrite levels? Ick is usually a side effect of stress typically caused by poor water quality.

A 40B isnt a terrible grow out tank for an Oscar...and honestly I would personally rather see an O housed in a 40B rather than a 55G so commonly suggested. The fish could at least turn around...
 

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I would also suggest doing more right now to get the water in as good shape as possible. Ich is not a killer by itself unless it really gets to the point that is ruins the gills. What ich does do is open a lot of tiny wounds which almost automatically creates several types of secondary infection points which do kill the fish. Think of it as death by a thousand pinpricks?
So when treating for ich, one of the more important points is to keep the water better than ever. In doing the water changes it is important to match the water going in to the existing on temp and all the other parameters that we can. Stress is not good, especially when sick. Also during the water changes, you can cut down the potential ich population as you can remove/ siphon those which are lying dormant on the bottom.
I go for meds, very rarely as it can lead to a death spiral if not done correctly. We treat the disease but wind up killing the good bacteria and then we have ammonia, nitrite spikes and that can kill the fish quicker than the first disease we thought we were fighting.
Good water, choose a treatment and stick with it but hold it steady as possible and it may help to cover the front, sides to make him less stressed.
Pretty far gone, though.
 
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