Help needed building Matheson 3104c

1900 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by kwheeler91, Apr 5, 2014

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · Apr 2, 2014 (Edited)

So I bought a used Matheson 3104c a couple days ago. I have yet to recieve it but I want to get all the parts I need ordered so I can get it a going as fast as possible. That being said im a noob. Im going to use the noob guide over on the barrreport as a template because all the part numbers, well most parts, are already listed and it looks simple enough. I dont know if I can link to that here but its easy to find. Here are the parts as they appear on the site, all to be ordered from swagelok :
(I changed the "SS" to "B" because I want brass to keep costs down)
B-4-HLN-2.00
B-4-RSE-2
(solenoid)
B-2-ME
(needle valve)
B-2c2-1/3 (male threaded check valve)
B-6MO-7-2 (swagelok tube adapter replaces JBJ bubble counter)
B-6M5-4M (tube insert)

The only other things I will need are a solenoid (planning on burkert) and the cga 320 nut and nipple. The guy who im buying the reg from said he had an aluminum one laying around i can have for free. Is this acceptable or shoud I buy a brass one?

Also I will need a plug for the extra port, from what I have read and seen in pics the 3104c has two. Does anyone know the part number for one of these from swagelok or otherwise?

I appreciate any help. Im on a budget so getting it right the first time is essential. Trying to keep it under $200 in total and right on track as long as this isnt horribly wrong.

I should mention if anyone has a post body laying around that would fit this shoot me a pm. 1/4" NPT port... I think

Thanks

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #2 · Apr 2, 2014

Anyone?.... I will single out the questions I was actually asking maybe that will help.

Is it ok to use an aluminum CGA nut and nipple?

Anyone know the part number for swagelok npt 1/4" plug or where I can get one swagelok or otherwise?

oldpunk78

· #3 · Apr 2, 2014

The aluminum cga is fine. It will wear out quickly but it's fine. You can find those plugs anywhere. Here's an example: 110506236111

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 3, 2014

oldpunk to the rescue!

What do you mean by wear out? Will it break or do you mean the threads?

neilshieh

· #5 · Apr 3, 2014

kwheeler91 said:
oldpunk to the rescue!

What do you mean by wear out? Will it break or do you mean the threads?

He means the threads, as long as you don't plan on screwing and unscrewing it frequently you should be fine. Keep in mind the aluminum ones are only like 1.5" long lol so if you're regulator has 2.5" gauges it won't be able to screw onto the tank upright.

AlanLe

· #6 · Apr 3, 2014

I can send you the fittings for free. Well you pay shipping. Shoot me a pm.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 3, 2014 (Edited)

Got my regulator today.

Big question here, are 1/4" ports refering to the radius of the fitting? Reason being the ports on here measure 1/2" diameter.

Also there are two holes on the back portion of the regulator and two holes on the front in between the handle and the face of the reg. I can see the spring inside and I was wondering if I have to plug these as well?

oldpunk78

· #8 · Apr 3, 2014

You don't want to plug those other holes. And the port sizes are 1/4 npt. There's no inch about it.

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 3, 2014 (Edited)

Oh I see thanks for clearing that up for me

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 4, 2014

I see that must of You guys take off the outlet shut off valve. Is there a reason for this concerning functionality or is it just personal preference?

oldpunk78

· #11 · Apr 4, 2014

kwheeler91 said:
I see that must of You guys take off the outlet shut off valve. Is there a reason for this concerning functionality or is it just personal preference?

You don't have to. You can certainly leave it there if you want. I remove it to keep as few parts as possible involved.

neilshieh

· #12 · Apr 4, 2014

kwheeler91 said:
I see that must of You guys take off the outlet shut off valve. Is there a reason for this concerning functionality or is it just personal preference?

you can keep it but it makes the whole regulator build unnecessarily long. The only time I use them is when I don't have a 1/4 mpt nipple and the shutoff valve is small. The ones you see on victor, concoa, and air products regulators are too big/bulky.

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #13 · Apr 4, 2014 (Edited)

Im trying to find a used metering valve with 1/8npt but not really having any luck. From what ive read the parker hr3 is supposed to be good but a used one is no where to be found. Ive found some swageloks but they are either 1/4 male or have tube connections or simply too expensive. Which brings me to my next question, how do you connect the tube connection valves to the post body?

Also if anybody has something for sale that would work shoot me a message.

Darkblade48

· #14 · Apr 5, 2014

kwheeler91 said:
Which brings me to my next question, how do you connect the tube connection valves to the post body?

There are tube to NPT adapters that Swagelok sells. An example is B-2-TA-1-2

kwheeler91

Discussion Starter · #15 · Apr 5, 2014

Darkblade48 said:
There are tube to NPT adapters that Swagelok sells. An example is B-2-TA-1-2

Ok thanks. I was startingto figure it out. Are those meant to be used with or without some type of sealant?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.