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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently received a bunch of free stuff from an old friend. One item was a 18 watt UV sterilizer. I was told everything was operating until he tore it down, which was quite some time ago.




Bulb was burned out, and still had some salt creep. It just so happens I have a spare 18 uv pc bulb, and id like to get this working.
Before connecting the new bulb, i wanted to check out the wiring. I was a little rough. It was held together with brittle wire caps, so i removed them and would like to solder the connections instead. I am no electrical guru by any means, and would like someone to hold my hand through this.

Here is the pc fixture:



There was also this weird fuse thing I have never seen before. I asked a few local aquarium shops but could not find an answer. Here it is, and how it was wired.
Do I even need one of those?



And here are the ballast cords. Which colors get soldered together? Green is the ground right?:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Right, so would I solder both red wires to the black, both yellow wires to the white, attach the ground, and call it a day?
It that glass fuse/regulator, or whatever it is not actually needed?
 

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A bit of honesty:
If you don't know the "fuse" is a starter" and is missing the usual support circuitry capacitor..just toss it..
Personally I'd toss it even knowing what the parts are..;)
 

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I would just replace the ballast with an electronic type. You can find them for around $20. That eliminates the "starter" you have and is more efficient anyway. The ballast will come with a wiring diagram just follow directions. On a side note, is the bulb you have a UV-C bulb? If not then it's not the same. A standard UV bulb will give you a nice tan but won't kill the bugs like the UV-C does.
 

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That little "fuse" looks to me like a light bulb as in "ON" indicator and it looks burnt out.

Going to be honest with you...I do A LOT of DIY electrical stuff, mostly low volatge DC stuff, but occasionally I play with the big boys...110V.

I would not waste the time and piece of mind rebuilding that unit. One wrong connection, leak etc. you got 110Vs to deal with....it makes your toes tingle!!
 

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That little "fuse" looks to me like a light bulb as in "ON" indicator and it looks burnt out.

Going to be honest with you...I do A LOT of DIY electrical stuff, mostly low volatge DC stuff, but occasionally I play with the big boys...110V.

I would not waste the time and piece of mind rebuilding that unit. One wrong connection, leak etc. you got 110Vs to deal with....it makes your toes tingle!!
AFAICT that would require a resistor as well.
Neon Lamp Technical Application Info | ILT
 

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you do know a new 13W UV c sterilizer is only $30 inc. shipping?
NEW DESIGN! 13W UV Sterilizer Adjustable Pump Filter 150 gal Aquarium Fish Tank

CLL Pet Supplies

Quantity:
More than 10 available / 822 sold
Price:
US $30.99
Feature:

• Adjustable Flow Rate (NEW FEATURE)

• Easy maintenance design (NEW FEATURE)

• UV Power: 13 Watts (G23 Base)

• Pump Power: 8 Watt

• Max Flow: 211gph

• Max Tank Size: 150 Gallon

• 13W UVC Light Bulb Included

DIMENSION: 3" x 2.5" x 13.5"

INCLUDES:

UV unit with built-in pump

UVC Light Bulb

Suction cup mounting brackets

Air tubing


WARNING:

UV-C LIGHT has an intense burning effect on human skin and can quickly damage your eyes. Do not expose your skin or eyes to an unprotected UV-C light.

If you want to check the working status of it, always do so through the indicator.
 
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That's a great price for an outdoor rated ballast Jeff! It should work, but if they had another rated for a little higher wattage for a comparable price that's the one I'd go for. Occasionally, there's not enough "juice" to start the bulb with cheaper electronic ballasts.

Here's a nice article, including a video, explaining UV sterilizer troubleshooting.

Troubleshooting Guide for UV Sterilizers, Replacement UVC Bulbs/Lamps

I think the most important thing they say in the article is "you get what you pay for". I suspect the cheapo UV sterilizers are exactly that. Repairing a decent unit would be a better choice in the long run IMO PROVIDED your new bulb is of good quality.
 

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Just to be a tad sarcastic.. Once you replace the bulb and the ballast and possibly a few asst. parts.. what does one use to define a "good" UV tank?
10 yr old UV baked plastic??????
 

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Just to be a tad sarcastic.. Once you replace the bulb and the ballast and possibly a few asst. parts.. what does one use to define a "good" UV tank?
10 yr old UV baked plastic??????
That's true. No argument here. I would still rather have a good bulb and ballast than a cheap system. If the chamber is clear and the unit does not leak well...
 
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