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Help me choose filter for a 6g rimless please.

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I'm getting a GLA rimless 6g. I was thinking of getting an AC20 but got to thinking that I want something more quite that I think only a canister can provide. I also don't want to look at an HOB on a nice rimless. So, I need help choosing a canister filter. I'm planning on doing FW planted with co2 for a nature style aquarium (amano iwagumi). I'm on a budget because I'm a college student so I don't want to go all out crazy.. otherwise I would have just bought an ADA with all the bells and whistles.

I think I've narrowed it down to with the Finnex PX 360 or the Eheim 2211. There's only about a $20~$30 difference, with Eheim being more expensive. I don't know when or if I'll be getting glass lily pipes so in case i don't, i think i like the tubing and spray bar inlet on the Finnex. The green on the Eheim is really loud and distracting so I'm afraid if i got the Eheim I'll be forced to take the plunge on lily pipes for another $80! One thing I don't like about these canisters is that they seem to be antiquated in not incorporating a self priming feature.

I'm also interested in the Fluval 106, but i think the GPH rate would be too high for a 6g, unless I can dial down the flow. I can't determine if there's a flow control from what I'm seeing online.. This filter is appealing because i like all the newer technology incorporated in it like self priming, sound dampening, and separated media baskets.. Although I've read the Eheims are just as quiet. One thing I don't like are the black hoses... can those be switched to clear ones?

Please let me know if you have any experience with these and what you'd recommend.. Thanks!
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· Carpe Diem
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You can always get clear hoses from HomeDepot or such.
Not sure what self-priming gets you on a 6g.
Finnex 360 has to be on the same level as the tank (I have 3 of them)
You can buy the complete infflow/outflow set from Finnex for $20 (good stuff, 1/2" ID)
Eheims are hard to beat (I have ~7).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh they sell hoses that fit canisters at home depot? Are the hoses canisters use all pretty much the same diameter? What size? Well for the self priming thing, there's a lever on the Fluval you just push and pull a few times. I've read for the Eheim it's a little tricky to get the priming going . Not sure the process, something like filling hoses with water or sucking on them to start a siphon? LOL
 

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Hoses have 2 measurements: Internal Diameter (ID) (more important) and Outside Diameter (OD) that are labeled on all hoses sold in hardware stores.

As long as you know your filter's hose ID and OD, you can replace them with any hose you like of the same ID/OD.

I find that canister filters with 'priming' are harder to get going then the ones without. Finnex 360 (without priming): just fill the filter full of water, plug it in - it starts.

Eheim / AquaTop (that I own): pump the button for 10 mins, get all sweaty and frustrated, double-check all connections, pump for another 10 mins. Give up, call yourself an idiot. Come back in 10 mins, use teacup to fill up the filter (against manufacturer's instructions), spilling water on yourself and all over the place in the process, reconnect the hoses, pump for 10 mins, give up. Come back in 10 minutes - the filter is working. IME.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@OVT - I really appreciate the explanation. I'm a total newb to canisters. I've been keeping fish and planted tanks for years with a HOB on my other tanks and an integrated filter in my nano cube 12g. So should i play it safe then and get the Eheim or Fluval since I'm not sure where the filter placement is going to be. But in terms of the Finnex, you say it has to be level with the tank? I thought i recall reading somewhere that it can be placed up to 24" under?

@pejerrey - wow that's an interesting setup. Pretty neat how the HOB is planted like that! Btw, wouldn't a 2213 be overkill and a 2211, would be more size and flow appropriate for a nano tank? And just to be clear, a UGF is an under gravel filter, correct? Why would you need that when the canister filters more than enough?

I think I'm leaning a bit to the Fluval 106, although i haven't discounted the 2211 yet. I have a Fluval C2 on my dwarf puffer tank and i love it. I'm just uncertain about flow control and swapping out the tubes on the 106. I read somewhere that the outflow nozzle and the inlet tube are proprietary in fit to the black ribbed tubing. However, i guess that would be another excuse to buy lily pipes. They're just too feakin' expensive for something that can break easily. I wish someone would start manufacturing acrylic lily pipes and sell them for a fraction of the price! LOL
 

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You can find acrylic pipes on this forum in the For Sale/Trade section or post in the WTB section.

In my personal experience, if Finnex 360 is even 12" below thetank it will not start circulation. YMMV.

When it comes to filters, "overkill" is good: you can always find ways to decrease/deflect the flow, and pretty much no ways to increase the flow. Some day you might also want to use the filter on a bigger tank.

And answering questions is what this forum does best. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah the more I comb through forums and read up on new material I find, I discovered the the 2211 uses different sized intake / outflow sized hoses. I'm thinking down the road if I got the CAL AQUA LAB Fluxus System - 13 mm / Nano lily pipes? Now I'm considering getting the 2213 instead, which I've read would fit those. For the meantime, if I got the 2213 and not the lily pipes for a while, would the flow be too much though for a 6 gallon that I'm planning on keeping / breeding cherry shrimp in?

I'm not sure if I want to use that spray bar... can I just use it without it? Will using the valve cut offs to constrict the flow be bad if I needed less current?

Thanks for your help OVT and who ever contributes here on TPT.
 

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The setup I have is not too much filtration. IMO. The only way to overkill filtration is by letting the jets stir the tank like a washing machine. You can adjust that with a flow control valve. The bigger the filter, more stable is the water. It's a small tank, it's unstable because of that.

There is not too much current because of the rock/plant layout and the moss cascade.

The DIY undergravel filter only function is to help the buffering substrate (akadama drl) maintain a stable ph day and night as is believed to help the survival of shrimplets. It's just a common shrimp keeper's set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@pejerrey... thanks for the input. I want to keep shrimp too but do I really need an UGF? This is the first hearing about this? I'm going to buy a pressurized co2 system with solenoid, so I think this should maintain stable pH?

As for my search, my 2 top contenders are the Eheim 2213 and (still) the Fluval 106. I sent Hagen/Fluval an inquiry and this is how they responded to my questions:

Questions:

1. Are the black hoses that comes with the 106 interchangable with other hoses? Preferably transparent ones. I don't think the black hoses will look very nice on my setup and I would like to put on some clear hoses... what are the size hoses that I should get if this is possible?

**Answer: The rubber adapter that attaches to the hose is 12 mm, we suggest when buying the hosing to bring along the aqua stop

2. Since the tank is a nano sized tank, being that it's 6 gallons, I cannot have a crazy fast current in there that can blow all the shrimp away. Is there a flow control on the 106?

**Answer: You may use the 106 on a 6 gallon tank, the flow rate is adjustable.

3. Lastly, is the intake adjustable in depth? I've been trying to look for videos and pictures of it and I can't determine if it's adjustable? My tank is only 11" in depth and will be heavily planted with about 2 to 3" of substrate. I would need this to be adjustable.

**Answer: You may cut the hose to size.

I know you guys don't have experience with the Fluval, but now I'm wondering if a 12 mm diameter adapter / hose would allow me to get hosing to fit those CAL AQUA LAB Fluxus System - 13 mm / Nano lily pipes? I sent an email to clarify if the 12 mm is the ID of the adapter or the hoses or what? This is so confusing and I just want to semi-future proof myself a bit. I'm okay with using the stock hoses and intake/outflow accessories for the time being, but I want flexibility down the road if I have the urge to make this tank look more clean with glass lily pipes and transparent hoses.
 

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Well, most people believe that co2 and shrimp shouldn't be mixed. I disagree, it's all about how much. There is a few other examples of cardinias and co2 in well planted tanks.

As for stable ph, I have a tank with co2 24/7 and one without co2. Both with UGFs. Both stable. Both with A LOT of filtration.

You don't "need" UGFs, is just a common practice in the hobby. Are you going to be keeping or breeding shrimp? And what kind of shrimp?

I think the right substrate is more important for certain species. It's the main factor in the overall ph IMO.

I'm not a breeder, I'm a keeper of shrimp. My main focus is plants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I've never kept shrimp before. I am reading a bit on them and also taking notes from more experienced hobbyists such as yourself, so thank you for the advice. I'm looking to keep Red Cherry Shrimp and (maybe) red crystal shrimp. I do want to plant this 6 gallon tank with HC among other flora to create a nature style iwagumi scape. So I'm planning on adding the excellent filtration and inject pressurized paintball co2.

I'm trying to do this on a budget because as it stands, it's already a money pit. I'm a college student, so funds are limited at the moment. I don't want to go completely cheap in all aspects, but I do like to save money here and there.

As for the substrate, I'm planning on doing a two toned look w/ rocks. I'm going to use black Floramax and a little bit of light colored sand to create a beach type of look. I do realize that Floramax only has trace elements and it's not nearly as nice as ADA Amazonia, but it's also a lot cheaper. When I prep the substrate when my tank arrives, I'm going to use some siphoned out water from my current established tank to get more nutrients in the substrate. I also have some Flourish Tabs on hand I plan to embed in there as well. Lastly, I'll be dosing with Flourish, Excel, and API Leaf Zone because I still have a lot of the liquid ferts left. I purchased the CSM+B / NPK dry ferts from GLA so I'll be dosing with that stuff after.

My pH from my tap in Arizona is pretty high, close to 8. The water is pretty hard as well.. so I guess I should be using some RO / DI water for this shrimp setup?

I want to start of with like 10 to 20 shrimp and (hopefully) breed a colony to be double that if not more.. After I get a substantial sized colony, I'm thinking of MAYBE added some nano fish like Galaxy Rasbora or Mosquito (Chili) Rasboras.

Edit:

BTW... here's my current planted tank, a 12g nano cube. I switched the substrate to Floramax (from standard gravel) and planted everything just a month ago. It's running DIY co2 at the moment with 48w of light. I'm getting insane growth... the DHG was yellow because it was grown emergent (from Petsmart) but it shed those leaves and is growing back.
I'm going to give that Rotala Colorata a trim probably tomorrow...LOL

 

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I would skip the seachem/ API ferts you want to use, specially excell.

Just go with the CSM B and NPK dry ferts.

I advice you to go low light no co2 and dose like 1/4 or less of the PPSpro method. It's easier on the shrimp.

Invest in a canister and a sponge filter.

Plant heavy from day one, cycle tank for 2 months before adding shrimp.

Start with neocardinias. Get supreme reds from Speedie or PFRs from Jimko. They are way more solid colors, cheap and hardy as cherry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Gosh... are my ideas of wanting an Iwagumi style setup w/ HC totally in contrast to breeding a healthy colony of shrimp at total conflict? Is there a way to have both? LOL... I checked out Jimko's post on the shrimp, they do look very nice! I wonder how much they'd cost though to ship to AZ?
 

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Gosh... are my ideas of wanting an Iwagumi style setup w/ HC totally in contrast to breeding a healthy colony of shrimp at total conflict? Is there a way to have both? LOL... I checked out Jimko's post on the shrimp, they do look very nice! I wonder how much they'd cost though to ship to AZ?
I don't think there is a conflict, it's easier low light but you can do more intense light and co2. Just make sure there is enough surface agitation to provide oxygen for them.

Excell tho, is known to be detrimental.
 
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