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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's green, it comes in round "spots" and it's definatly algae. I have some I believe. I've also been searching/reading here about algae. One thing I find weird is that there is alot of it on the ceramic disk of my co2 diffuser, and it follows the path of the tank current for the most part. I don't have much, but I do have a sand section in my substrate. The sand isn't planted, but I have to keep changing it because this algae settles on top of the sand - too much work.

I dose basic EI, but I have gone an extra day in between here and there. Not to mention I don't do traces, since I can't convert the 5/ml dose recommendation into a dry dosage, and I don't have the fancy equipment to make a solution. I hope thats not the problem. I've also been doing 2x weekly water changes - makes my tank look better, so I don't know if thats screwing things up. co2 read between 40-50ppm. I have no way to test nitrates or phosphates.

I find removing the little bit off the glass very difficult. Not so much the removing, but the water turbulence when I wipe uproots over 50% of my plants. I need a better way. Right now I use a clean rag and wipe it off.

Another thing that currently is worrying me: My co2 tubing is silicon. When I bought it it was supposed to be good for co2. Now I read that it loses up to 6% per foot. So I'm going to change over to some other stuff I have thats rated for co2.

Is this going to screw up the wonderful balance I have going so far (minus the little bit of algae)? Please no, Please no... I've been having pretty good luck so far... I'm hearing that co2 changes can take a long time to settle in before you can measure them. I don't use a solenoid or anything, just steady 24/7 flow.
 

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Ed, you really need to be dosing TE/trace also, you are shooting yourself in the foot by not doing so.
It really is not hard to mix up a bottle of trace, a measuring spoon a bottle and some water and thats it.

Pick the dosing schedule that fits your tank size here, there is also info on dosing trace dry just below the regime's.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html
Get some Trace in the tank, add to your dosing regime a bottle of Flourish Excel and use that for a few weeks.
Any more questions you need to ask? feel free.
Clean soak your disk weekly in bleach water, cleans it right up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Wö£fëñxXx!

I used those formulas from soemewhere else to come up with my dosing. I just never noticed anything about mixing plantex.

Can you or someone else clarify what is meant below for dry dosing plantex? It is jibberish to me:

If you choose to dose Plantex dry here is a formula.. Thanks jgc
Originally Posted by jgc
Another conversion. In a 1 tablespoon to 250ml, 20 ml = 1/4 teaspoon of fert. (there are 12 - 1/4 teaspoons disolved. 250ml/12=20.83ml

...and if I dose plantex dry, where does that leave the magnesium sulfate?
 

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1/4 teaspoon of Plantex= appro. 20ml of mixed solution based on the formula of 1 Tablespoon to 250ml H20.
So, if you want to dose 5ml then cut the 1/4tsp four ways giving you 1/16tsp dry powder.
1/16Tsp=5ml
1/16Tsp x 4= 1/4Tsp dry or in mixed solution 20ml per 1/4Tsp, or 5ml per 1/16Tsp.

What makes you think you need to dose magnesium sulfate?
You should have enough for your needs in either the trace mix or in your water supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again Wö£fëñxXx!

What makes you think you need to dose magnesium sulfate?
You should have enough for your needs in either the trace mix or in your water supply.
I had found the instructions for mixing the CSM+B on Greg Watsons site, and it says to mix in magnesium sulfate. But if I'm good to go without it, I won't bother. Thanks for the fertilizer table as well, very helpful!
 

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Greg did mix Mg in with the CSM+B once upon a time, I wonder if he stopped doing that.
I will have to call or email him and ask him what exactly he is talking about there "roll your own" that sounds like making root sticks, or incense, or certainly he is not talking about us smoking CSM+B now... :alien:

That last batch I got from him very recently did look a little different, I have not used any of it yet so can't say for sure.
 

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use a razor blade to remove the GSA.. it's the easiest way. And I found that GSA is usually caused by too much light either too much wattage or too long a photo period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wö£fëñxXx - On my bag of CSM+B, the ingredients lists Mg, so I guess it's in there like you said. Maybe mixing more Mg would help it mix in to the water column or something (I'm thinking of a word that medical people use, but I can't think of it. I think it starts with a J).


mistergreen - Thats funny. Yesterday I was contemplating both a longer photoperiod and more lighting, because my tank isn't keeping me busy enough. Theres just not enough to trim. I have 36 watts suspended 4" above my tank, and my photo period is 9 hours I think. I had kicked it up from 7 1/2 maybe a week ago, but I thought even 9 hours is too short?
 

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From what i understand these plants adapt to what we throw at it as far as Co2 levels, nutrients, light, and water quality but don't adapt quite as fast as algae. The change in photopoeriod can be a cause for your new algae since you changed recently. While I don't think 9 1/2 hours is too much as many people use ten, I do think the change is the cause. I think once the light period is stable again at your 9 1/2 hours for awhile and the plants have the nutrients they need it should go away. Also, I believe some people wait out the life cycle of GSA and it dissappears you'll have to do some research on that though as I have no experience with that.

Whats the wattage on your VHO and what color bulbs?

I agree traces are completely neccesary.

If you do dose exel note that it can adveresly effect some plants. I know my vals don't like it.

Lastly, make sure you have enough ferts with your increase in light.
 

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Gsa

I have a GSA problem in my 75g.:help: Most of it is on the back of my tank, where most of my current flows. I run my light at 130w of 12000k from 11 to 9 and another 130w blast of 6500k from 3 to 8. 260w max. Right now i use only diy co2(2 2liters), and excel daily. No dry ferts yet. I have a moderate amount of plants and a large fish load. Would like some advise on things to try, for now i'm just going to let it do its thing. Hopefully it will cycle out.
 

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edacsac: I don't mean to be the bearer of bad news but your algae sounds more like Green Dust Algae rather than Green Spot Algae. You said it settles on the substrate and is easy to wipe off the glass. GSA is not easy to wipe off and it doesn't settle on the substrate. I'd put my money on you having Green Dust algae. For your sake I hope I'm wrong. GSA is relatively easy to cure, GDA on the other hand......well just do a search and you'll see what I mean. Not good. As GDA builds up on your glass it will form circles that get large enough to look almost exactly like Green Spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
edacsac: I don't mean to be the bearer of bad news but your algae sounds more like Green Dust Algae rather than Green Spot Algae. You said it settles on the substrate and is easy to wipe off the glass. GSA is not easy to wipe off and it doesn't settle on the substrate. I'd put my money on you having Green Dust algae. For your sake I hope I'm wrong. GSA is relatively easy to cure, GDA on the other hand......well just do a search and you'll see what I mean. Not good. As GDA builds up on your glass it will form circles that get large enough to look almost exactly like Green Spot.
Yep iyour right, t is GDA. I've been doubling my water change frequency and it's hardly a nuisance anymore. I still have to clean it, but it's as simple as wiping down the glass and sucking up a little sand with the water change hose. I have read about letting it run it's cycle, but I may wait on that for now. I have a couple of other more invasive algaes kicking up that I'm focusing on.
 
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