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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i have been battling this GSA and i have been losing. I was trying to do it without CO2 but i even broke down and went and got a setup. Here is what i got going.

40 gallon breeder
eco-complete substrate
coralife 36" T5HO DB. 17" above substrate (on at 1200 off at 2015)work late
CO2 kicking through an atomizer when lights on and 1 hr before off
PH 6.6 (CO2), .25 ammonia/ 0 nitrite/ 0 nitrate/ GH 8 drops/ KH 4 drops
just started dosing Green Leaf Aquariums Pro Pack
cascade 1000 filter spray bar
150 watt heater, set at 80
I do have alot of jungle val so i'm off of Flourish Excel. willing to bring back if need be gradually of course.

I'm guessing that my lights are probably to much for how close it is to the substrate. If need any other info please ask, i'll do the best i can. Don't have any other testing equipment then what i have already tested for. Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What are you fertilizing with? What's in the GLA thing?
Our PPS-Pro Fert Package Includes:

Micros / Trace Elements
Plantex CSM + B
Macros -
Potassium Nitrate (KNO3)
Mono Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4)
Potassium Sulfate (K2SO4)
Magnesium Sulfate (MgSO4)

I mix and dose according to there solution calculator on there website
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You aren't dosing PO4 and CSM on the same day are you?

Anyway, if you just started dosing, you'll have to be patient.
I do dose them the same day every day at there specified dosing amount per tank size. I do know that all tanks aren't the same and that dosing sometimes requires slight adjustments i'm just not sure how to tweak mine for the better.
 

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I see very little evidence of the light being too much/close. The GSA on the wood is mild. Not everyone supports that thing about the nutrients binding, but I follow the
directions of those who do support it and dose the iron on an every other day thing
but I dose once a week after WC so I just do the Macros first and the next day the Micros. Cause why take the chance if it might interfere.
The older leaves on the anubias will get GSA because of how long they stay on the plant. Same thing/w Crypts/Java Fern because of how slow they grow. These plants
don't have as much of this if placed in the shade of other plants(but a few Crypts need high light) but this issue is common in tanks that have higher light and low light plants.
Not 100% the case but you should consider the tank to just have been started or
the plants to have just been put in there from when you started adding the ferts.
Mostly saying I'd wait a month after you started the ferts to evaluate how the tank is doing.
Things that would help:
Do 7 hrs on the lights either just start it an hr later or some people use a break in the middle to help stop the algae as it needs continous light while the plants don't notice
an hr or so break.
Start the CO2 1/2-3/4 hr before light on for it to saturate the water better.
If practicle put the anubias in the shade of some other plants.
With no full tank shot it's hard to say, but one or two bunches of a stemmed plant in a corner would eventually provide such shade and take up more of the nutrients meanwhile. A water sprite plant would do this also.
Almost forgot: The older leaves will not get repaired so you can trim off a couple of the worst ones but just don't get carried away/w it as the plant may be collecting light from the better ones. Just watch for improvement in the new leaves.
 

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I am going to disagree with the green spot on older leaves. That may be true for the majority but for me after the tank became established green spot no longer grows on even the older leaves. I would bring up the PO4 , & if using CO2 higher levels at the same time in conjunction with higher levels of PO4 should contain the green spot but only if the bio mass is high!

It also looks like you have BSA with the GSA. I find that the BSA is WAY harder to contain than GSA! For me , good plant growth & keeping my filters VERY CLEAN all the time with good flow helped contain BSA. It is very pesky . I battled the stuff for many months. I feel high DOC'S cause the BSA . Dosing PO4 in my dirt tank did kill off almost all GSA but I was shortly rewarded with BSA!!!! I am not as concerned that much about it though since I knocked it out of 2 tanks recently. It will not go away over night. GSA is easy to contain but BSA is a whole different game. If you crank up the CO2 with BSA it will not make a difference . It will grow right on the diffuser or atomizer itself! If the tank is balanced the GSA should go away fast. I have many anubius plants that contain zero green spot even though the leaves are years old. I have 2 pressurized tanks that the BSA vanished overnight one day. The 2 things I concentrated on was good clean filters with surface movement & keeping ferts up, & keeping the tank balance with ferts & lighting.
 

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Sorry if anyone got the impression that I was saying it's impossibly to avoid GSA in
older plants. That is certainly not the case. And I put this here just in case anyone gets that idea from what I said.
As Hardstuff said good maintenance/good currant go a long way towards keeping
a lid on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I see very little evidence of the light being too much/close. The GSA on the wood is mild. Not everyone supports that thing about the nutrients binding, but I follow the
directions of those who do support it and dose the iron on an every other day thing
but I dose once a week after WC so I just do the Macros first and the next day the Micros. Cause why take the chance if it might interfere.
The older leaves on the anubias will get GSA because of how long they stay on the plant. Same thing/w Crypts/Java Fern because of how slow they grow. These plants
don't have as much of this if placed in the shade of other plants(but a few Crypts need high light) but this issue is common in tanks that have higher light and low light plants.
Not 100% the case but you should consider the tank to just have been started or
the plants to have just been put in there from when you started adding the ferts.
Mostly saying I'd wait a month after you started the ferts to evaluate how the tank is doing.
Things that would help:
Do 7 hrs on the lights either just start it an hr later or some people use a break in the middle to help stop the algae as it needs continous light while the plants don't notice
an hr or so break.
Start the CO2 1/2-3/4 hr before light on for it to saturate the water better.
If practicle put the anubias in the shade of some other plants.
With no full tank shot it's hard to say, but one or two bunches of a stemmed plant in a corner would eventually provide such shade and take up more of the nutrients meanwhile. A water sprite plant would do this also.
Almost forgot: The older leaves will not get repaired so you can trim off a couple of the worst ones but just don't get carried away/w it as the plant may be collecting light from the better ones. Just watch for improvement in the new leaves.
I will try breaking up the time the light is on. It's hard for me to have it start before the light because i only have the co2 and light on one timer but i unplug the co2 before the ights go out(timer on my phone). I don't have much shade to try and hide my low light plants and yes the tank is farely new being it has only been up and running for 3 months. Thanks for your input.
 
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