Tom Barr has an interesting method of removing GDA. Essentially, you leave the GDA alone for several (3-4) weeks and it will create a mat. Once this occurs, it will simply slough off, and should not come back.
Yes that would help. Reducing light lowers demand for CO2 thereby increasing the amount available! You can adjust the amount of ferts added accordingly. Plants and animals are carbon based so think of CO2 as the most important food item that plants need.Oh yeah sorry its a 10G, i have 2 coke bottles and a little Hagen water pump so diffusion is good. Do you suggest i keep only 1 of the lights on? I just feel like the nutrients would go to waste
That's great but shouldn't the OP fix the reason the algae is there? 30 watts of t8 and cfl sitting right on top of a 10 gallon tank is a good amount of light over a shallow tank wouldn't you say?try tom barrs method. worked great for me. if you keep scraping it it wont go through its whole life cycle. let it sit and it builds up and lives its life out. you will pretty much see it falling off of the glass. then scrape it and do a huge water change (80%). that should solve the problem. if it doesnt work the first time you might have to do it one more time
I have found no support for NO3 swings.water params? GDA sometimes occurs from nitrate swings.
I am relatively sure that you are confusing BGA (cyanobacteria) with GDA. BGA can be related to low nitrates.water params? GDA sometimes occurs from nitrate swings.
I am relatively sure that you are confusing BGA (cyanobacteria) with GDA. BGA can be related to low nitrates.
It's definitely as tough to remove as GSA. But IME GSA has always been those larger green blotches (a few mm diameter). This is much more like... well, dust. Which is what brought me here.if its on the rocks its not gda. and gda is very easy to take off. you must have gsa