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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm looking at getting an FX6 soon to go along with my purchase of a 90 gallon aquarium, but trying to find different pieces of equipment that are compatible with it's 1" hose is proving to be quite a challenge. It looks like I will probably have to DIY some of the setup but just want to confirm my thoughts and get any additional insight from more experienced people. I'm located in Canada at the moment and while I have considered other canister filters, the FX6 does seem to be the most bang for my buck at it's price point of $350. The pieces of equipment I'm looking at or need advice are below. Ultimately I'm looking for a clean looking setup with minimal DIY.

Inline Heater - Hydor 300 Watt

I can't seem to find any inline heaters that fit the 1" tubing and these Hydor heaters have been highly recommended from my research

CO2 Reactor - NA Co2 Reactor | Clear Reactor Chamber With Bio-ball (24" tall with a 1" fitting)

This actually comes with a 1" fitting and is the only piece of equipment I've found that does. I'm worried about buying the 1" fitting for the reactor though as I would have to place it earlier in the line (before the inline heater) which might cause some of the CO2 to dissipate. On that note, will I have to get CO2 tubing to be used after this in the line when using a CO2 reactor? Also does the 1" fitting apply to just the water line or the CO2 line as well?

Lily Pipe Outflow/Inflow - Chihiros Lily Type Glass Outflow L & Chihiros U Type Glass Inflow L

I'm not too hung up on the brand, from what I've found online it seems alright? I can't find any 1" lily pipes either and it looks like other users online haven't found anything either. Open to suggestions on a better brand or if someone know of a 1" lily pipe....

Diagram of Possible Setups


EPIGdTi.png


Above is a very crudely drawn diagram of the possible setups for the filter. I've never done any plumbing before but I'm pretty sure I can figure it out.

Setup 1

The most simple for me to do but I don't think I will use it as the flow will be restricted quite by converting the tubing to 3/4".

Setup 2

More of a pain to do but I won't have a restricted flow this way. I think I will probably join the lines back together with another T so I can save on the costs of buying another lily pipe and having less equipment in the tank

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Well, that's it. Thanks a lot for taking the time to read this and I would greatly appreciate any feedback, suggestions, or your experience with setting up an FX6.
 

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@BourgeoisGoblin - to the best of my knowledge, the FX4 and FX6 both use the same 1" id tubing. If correct, I added a FX-4 to my 75 gallon tank about 1 year ago. The link below should give you some useful information. I would not recommend Setup 1 in your above diagram. Setup 2 would be a much better alternative. To help simplify my install I converted to Tetra Brand 1" ribbed pond tubing - smooth on the inside, ribbed on the outside. I then had to sand down the ribs (barbs) on a standard 1" nylon barbed fitting the I bought at your typical big box store (Menards, Lowes, Home Depot). Once that is done you could then convert to a pair of 3/4" lines as shown in your drawing.
A couple of suggestions to your Setup 2 - move the heater to one of the lines and the reactor to the other. Also, add a valve (ball or gate) just after the heater - this will allow you to better tune the performance of your reactor. Also, if you do convert to the ribbed pond tubing, read post 878 on the linked thread below.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/12-tank-journals/843353-immortal1-75g-journey-new-plants-4-8-20-a-59.html
 

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I would just convert to 3/4. I think mostly it will increase the water's speed through your tubes without decreasing your turnover too much.

I should clarify! I definitely think you should have a bypass around your reactor, as you show in your setup #2. My comment was really about not having to find specialized lily pipes and reactors etc.


Whatever you do, bypassing the reactor with part of your flow will allow you to tune it in a way that you could not if all your flow was blasting through it. For what it's worth, here's what it looks like on my FX4 (68G tank). You'll see that in the end I just stepped down to 5/8 anyway because that was the size of the pipes and inline heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@BourgeoisGoblin - to the best of my knowledge, the FX4 and FX6 both use the same 1" id tubing. If correct, I added a FX-4 to my 75 gallon tank about 1 year ago. The link below should give you some useful information. I would not recommend Setup 1 in your above diagram. Setup 2 would be a much better alternative. To help simplify my install I converted to Tetra Brand 1" ribbed pond tubing - smooth on the inside, ribbed on the outside. I then had to sand down the ribs (barbs) on a standard 1" nylon barbed fitting the I bought at your typical big box store (Menards, Lowes, Home Depot). Once that is done you could then convert to a pair of 3/4" lines as shown in your drawing.
A couple of suggestions to your Setup 2 - move the heater to one of the lines and the reactor to the other. Also, add a valve (ball or gate) just after the heater - this will allow you to better tune the performance of your reactor. Also, if you do convert to the ribbed pond tubing, read post 878 on the linked thread below.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/...rtal1-75g-journey-new-plants-4-8-20-a-59.html
Thanks for your response. Couple questions for you though

- Why did you remove it only to sand it off?
- Does the ribbing matter?

I was going to most likely purchase this 3/4" vinyl tubing but your comment about buying a specific type of tubing is making me question it

I should clarify! I definitely think you should have a bypass around your reactor, as you show in your setup #2. My comment was really about not having to find specialized lily pipes and reactors etc.


Whatever you do, bypassing the reactor with part of your flow will allow you to tune it in a way that you could not if all your flow was blasting through it. For what it's worth, here's what it looks like on my FX4 (68G tank). You'll see that in the end I just stepped down to 5/8 anyway because that was the size of the pipes and inline heater.
Thanks for the picture and your feedback. I have a few questions for you to!

- By tuning the CO2 reactor, do you mean dialing the the appropriate amount of CO2 for the tank?
- How does restricting the flow to the reactor help you to tune it?


Thanks again for both your responses.
 

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Thanks for the picture and your feedback. I have a few questions for you to!

- By tuning the CO2 reactor, do you mean dialing the the appropriate amount of CO2 for the tank?
- How does restricting the flow to the reactor help you to tune it?


Thanks again for both your responses.
By tuning I'm referring to the amount of flow through the reactor and the pressure in the reactor.

You need fast enough flow to break up bubbles but not so much that bubbles are flowing out of the reactor undissolved. If you allow some of the flow to bypass the reactor and include a back pressure valve after the reactor before it rejoins the tank return, you can hit that sweet spot of flow in the reactor without impacting your overall tank turnover. You get the added benefit of increasing the pressure in the reactor which helps with dissolution of co2.

Once you have the reactor tuned, you adjust the amount of co2 at the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Had to go find this pic - probably explains what I did the best

OHHHHHHH that makes a lot of sense! Thanks for going through the effort!



By tuning I'm referring to the amount of flow through the reactor and the pressure in the reactor.

You need fast enough flow to break up bubbles but not so much that bubbles are flowing out of the reactor undissolved. If you allow some of the flow to bypass the reactor and include a back pressure valve after the reactor before it rejoins the tank return, you can hit that sweet spot of flow in the reactor without impacting your overall tank turnover. You get the added benefit of increasing the pressure in the reactor which helps with dissolution of co2.

Once you have the reactor tuned, you adjust the amount of co2 at the regulator.

Okay yeah, I see what you mean. You don't want a lot of flow going through the reactor or the water so it can have more of an impact when dissolving the CO2 into the water. Thanks a lot!
 

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The way I solved this problem on mine, was running a separate loop for the CO2 and heater. My FX6 is on one side of the tank, and a loop with an external pump is on the other side. Check out my journal in my signature for more info.

On a separate note, I just sent you a PM about a custom glass Lily pipe I’m getting. I found a glass blower near me that was very interested in the project, and is working on it now. Once I get it in and check out the quality, I’ll share his info.
 

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I had an FX5 on my 100g and it was hooked up in a similar way to your Setup 2 option. I used Eheim tubing and it was really good vs the Fluval tubing.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to the both of you. I think I've determined I will go with setup too. I also realized that I'm dumb and if I want an aftermarket glass intake filter I will have to do a similar setup for the intake and have two of them in the tank so as not to restrict the flow. This is something I don't want though as I was trying to put as little equipment in to the tank as possible. Two glass lily pipes and intake filters aren't too bad though and I can make it symmetrical at least.

As for the tubing, I'm not particularly crazy about Eheim tubing and will probably just end up going with a clear vinyl tubing.
 
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