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Discussion Starter #1
:icon_idea After starting a few threads and reading a lot of them. I have come up with this...:icon_idea
Note: I have bought none of these yet...

Now the questions I have:
1. I need to know if I need to upgrade to the Eheim 2028 because of the resentace from the heater, UV Ster., and the Defuser, or can I stick with the Eheim 2026??

2. Is there better choice than the Hydor ETH 300? I have heard no reviews on it and just need to know if there is something better, or if you all have used it any.

3. Is there anything that you all see that could be a problem?
 

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Many people use the inline heater and Hydor is the only one I belive.

Can I ask why you have the T connector right before going into the UV sterilizer?

I'd go with the Eheim 2028 since your slowing the flow down with all the equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Your on the money why to put the UVS in there but your going to have some air lock issues for sure with this lime map. You may even burn up the bulb if it runs with little water in the UVS after water change. Your pretty close to my setup except for the in line heater part. I run reactor and UVS off my 2026. In the chain is Canister out, UVS, Reactor, Spray bar. Try to keep the hose runs short as possible. For example my UVS is connected to the top of the reactor by 1.5" of hose. :)

I have a 2026 on my 55 and need to keep it trimmed back for this filter to really move water in a mature tank. 2028 is not much bigger but has another media tray and a bit bigger pump.

If it grows in too far the water will become stagnant. Been there done that. :)

In lieu of this I have a rio200 on the other side of the spray bar to keep thing moving. Still not enough though so soon as I can afford one another filter will go in there...

Benefit will be additional mechanical filtration and can alternate canister cleaning to maintain the beneficial bacteria.

I'm also not 100% happy with my reactor and am going to add a diffuser for day use and Keep and low bubble count on the reactor 7/24.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Your on the money why to put the UVS in there but your going to have some air lock issues for sure with this lime map. You may even burn up the bulb if it runs with little water in the UVS after water change. Your pretty close to my setup except for the in line heater part. I run reactor and UVS off my 2026. In the chain is Canister out, UVS, Reactor, Spray bar. Try to keep the hose runs short as possible. For example my UVS is connected to the top of the reactor by 1.5" of hose. :)
What do you mean by air lock?

The first T connector will have a switch on it so the full flow of the 2028 will go into it. (so do you think I will burn it out with that???)



I have a 2026 on my 55 and need to keep it trimmed back for this filter to really move water in a mature tank. 2028 is not much bigger but has another media tray and a bit bigger pump.
So go with the 2028, or the 2026?
 

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If you like the 2028 will work... Just heed my warning. If your tank turns into a Jungle water quality will suffer. To kept it looking good stay on top of the bio mass.

As for the air lock part what you could do is add a valve on the UVS bypass. This way once you start up the pump dry you'll force water through the UVS to prime it. Then throttle the bypass to slow the flow through the UVS. BTW the slowing down the water is the only benefit to this setup. Helps keep a longer exposure time on the bugs it's designed to kill.

For ease of maintenance and restart I have placed ball tap unions before heading to and from the tank so I can fill these sections with water before re assembly. Helps minimize the amount of air trapped in the reactor. the trapped air is dissolved on a few hours...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you like the 2028 will work... Just heed my warning. If your tank turns into a Jungle water quality will suffer. To kept it looking good stay on top of the bio mass.
So are you saying keep it trimed or find another choice of Filters??

As for the air lock part what you could do is add a valve on the UVS bypass. This way once you start up the pump dry you'll force water through the UVS to prime it. Then throttle the bypass to slow the flow through the UVS. BTW the slowing down the water is the only benefit to this setup. Helps keep a longer exposure time on the bugs it's designed to kill.

For ease of maintenance and restart I have placed ball tap unions before heading to and from the tank so I can fill these sections with water before re assembly. Helps minimize the amount of air trapped in the reactor. the trapped air is dissolved on a few hours...
Ok see below pic and text......

So I need to have a way to split the flow into 2 paths. Path A (into the UV) at say 50% of the water flow, the Path B (the bypass) with the other 50% of the flow. This slows the flow into the UV to make it work but not toooo much flow to make it work correctly.

Did I get this right?
 

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Sorry I didn't get back to you... Didn't see this pop up in my CP.

You'll only really need one at the B location. On initial startup turn it off (close the bypass). Then open it up to allow the water to run slower through the UVS.

You are making this more complicated doing this but it's your choice.:wink:

As for the trimming/filter thing yeah. Wolfenex and I had a little chat about flow in that thread. I'm in the market for another canister so I can grow out the jungle. :)
 
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