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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a tank for two months now.
First I got cianobateria that butchered most my plants.
Now I have murky water, not green. I read it is bacteria.
I have some decaying plants.

All I have in the tank is some shrimp. I really do not want snails.
Is it because I do not have snails?
What are my options? Feels frustrating
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
tank is about 60 gal, aquatlantis light (40 W LEDs), big dual sponge filter, substrate is seachem gravel and seachem fluorite sand in the front, ph around 6.7-6.8

Bump: plants:
tiger lotus, half dead wendii green crypt, ludwigia, hygrophila, myrophilum, needle fern, echinodorus belheri, and 3 other tissue cultures that may or may not survive (star grass, postegemon erectus, bacopa monieri)
 

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At two months it sounds like the tank is still cycling and establishing itself. In my experience it should settle down by itself over time.

What do your Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates test at?

Even after the nitrifying bacteria are established there are other bacterial colonies that need to get established for the plants and tank to come to a balanced level.

Being impatient myself I understand how frustrating it can be to just wait for the tank to fix itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thank you

I do not mind waiting.
I have PRL shrimp in the tank and they seem undisturbed, no deaths and molting is fine.

But my fear is that the murky water makes it that not enough light gets to the plants, and I do water changes of 50% every couple of days and then after two days its very murky again
 

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thank you

I do not mind waiting.
I have PRL shrimp in the tank and they seem undisturbed, no deaths and molting is fine.

But my fear is that the murky water makes it that not enough light gets to the plants, and I do water changes of 50% every couple of days and then after two days its very murky again
Could you add a picture? A bacteria bloom usually only lasts a day or two in my experience. Are you testing for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
7 hours

My original problems were at 10 hours, at the first two weeks, I learned my lesson and reduced.

I will try to load a pic later, but it is not that clear in the pic at all.
 

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Purigen or activated carbon would probably help clear up the water quite quickly and make it healthier for the shrimp while the tank is getting established. I am not sure how you would use activated carbon with a sponge filter though. A cheap corner filter might work. You will probably need a media bag if you want to use purigen in one of these box filters since the purigen particles are quite small.

We have one of these in my daughters axolotl tank. Just remove the media that comes with it and replace it with activated carbon.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquapapa-Bio-Sponge-Ceramic-Aquarium-XY-2010/dp/B01N5PIY97/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=aquarium+corner+filter&qid=1599768067&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Oxygen-Breeding-Corner-Filter/dp/B008FLYYOE/ref=sr_1_56?dchild=1&keywords=aquarium+box+filter&qid=1599768401&sr=8-56

https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Bubbler-Bottom-Filter/dp/B0002AQ2LY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=aquarium+box+filter&qid=1599768484&sr=8-1

Tableware Liquid Drinkware Ingredient Food


Any of these types of air powered box filters should do the job and be shrimp friendly. This is more of a patch until the aquarium balances itself. If the problem persists for several months I would start searching for another cause of the cloudiness other than new tank syndrome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
my sponge filter is a dual filter and there is also a media area that has ceramic balls inside it

I can remove the ceramic balls and put carbon
but which carbon media do you recommend to get?
 

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Would it work to just put a little bag of charcoal somewhere in the filter area, anywhere water will run over it?
I would want water to flow through the charcoal. However you can accomplish that I am sure will work fine.

my sponge filter is a dual filter and there is also a media area that has ceramic balls inside it

I can remove the ceramic balls and put carbon
but which carbon media do you recommend to get?
Aquarium activated carbon. I am sure there are different grades and some brands are probably more effective that others... I usually just go for cheap. Even Petsmart stuff should get the job done.



Activated carbon absorbs organic molecules and will last for a few weeks before it needs to be replenished (i.e. replaced). It will absorb the nitrogen compounds (Ammonia, nitrites and nitrates) lowering the excess nutrients in your tank. As the tank settles the nutrients should start to balance with plants, algae and bacteria and the activated carbon should no longer be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
seems I had active carbon in a package that came with the original filter of the aquarium (that was broken), but the package is closed, so opened it and put the carbon in my filter.
Let's see :)
 

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When I have used activated carbon on a new tank in the past I usually see very noticeable results in 2 to 3 days. I usually use a pretty large amount of carbon though. How much active carbon you are using and how much water you can push through the active carbon will make a big difference in how quickly the water will start to clear up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
did 50% water change and kept the carbon running
The water is still a little murky but much much much better than before.

How often would you change the carbon in the filter?
 
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