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I can't see the algae from the picture, but if you do have thread algae, a Siamese algae eater should help bring it under control. Make sure you get a *real* Siamese algae eater. There are a number of guides online that help one to differentiate them from the "lookalikes"

tom
 

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specs of the tank, better pic or description of algae, and budget is needed in making a determination for the best course of action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi all thanks for the input it is greatly appreciated. The tank is a 110 gallon that recieves 40% water changes almost weekly, it has a hang on the back filter for a 60-70 gallon tank and an undergravel filter in 30% of the tank.
2 spotted bristlenose
1.5", one longfin albino bristlenose 4"
green phantom pleco 3.5"
two fire belly newts
one pictus catfish
8 tiger barbs 3/4"
4 buenos aires tetral 2"
3 diamond tetra 2"
3 gambusia (mosqitoe fish)
4 lyrtail brichardi 3" (4 babies also 1" or less)
2 gold angel fish 1.5-2
a ton of malaysian trumpet snails

The suspect in question is fiberous and lightly covers the tank decorations and is beginning to form on the walls it is not bad or unsightly at times I just do not want to let it get out of hand. It looks exactly like a bunch of thread throughout the tank, is green and can be as long as 2". My budget is as big or small as it will need to be. If I do get Siamese algae eater will work for the life of the fish or will it stop at some point.
Thank you Jason
 

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what kind of lighting? co2? How long has it been since you changed your hob filter. Without knowing this I would say that you should start dosing excel at 1 1/2 normal dosing according to the bottle, and start only after a 75% water change. Then if you have the time, do a 30% wc twice a week, or 50% once a week. Add excel every day and manually remove as much as possible. Adding another fish to your bioload while there is something limited might not be the best idea ...
 

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Hi all thanks for the input it is greatly appreciated. The tank is a 110 gallon that recieves 40% water changes almost weekly, it has a hang on the back filter for a 60-70 gallon tank and an undergravel filter in 30% of the tank.
2 spotted bristlenose
1.5", one longfin albino bristlenose 4"
green phantom pleco 3.5"
two fire belly newts
one pictus catfish
8 tiger barbs 3/4"
4 buenos aires tetral 2"
3 diamond tetra 2"
3 gambusia (mosqitoe fish)
4 lyrtail brichardi 3" (4 babies also 1" or less)
2 gold angel fish 1.5-2
a ton of malaysian trumpet snails

The suspect in question is fiberous and lightly covers the tank decorations and is beginning to form on the walls it is not bad or unsightly at times I just do not want to let it get out of hand. It looks exactly like a bunch of thread throughout the tank, is green and can be as long as 2". My budget is as big or small as it will need to be. If I do get Siamese algae eater will work for the life of the fish or will it stop at some point.
Thank you Jason

Your tank is heavily under filtered! Go buy an Eheim 2217 or equivalent canister and get rid of the under gravel filter. As the above poster suggested Excel may help as well.

What is the type and wattage of your lights and do you fertilize and with what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
what kind of lighting? co2? How long has it been since you changed your hob filter. Without knowing this I would say that you should start dosing excel at 1 1/2 normal dosing according to the bottle, and start only after a 75% water change. Then if you have the time, do a 30% wc twice a week, or 50% once a week. Add excel every day and manually remove as much as possible. Adding another fish to your bioload while there is something limited might not be the best idea ...
The lighting on the tank is 40 watts of flourescent, one 2' and one 18". The filter gets cleaned about once a month and changed completly every three. What is excel. I do my best not to add chemicals to the tank except a dechlorinator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your tank is heavily under filtered! Go buy an Eheim 2217 or equivalent canister and get rid of the under gravel filter. As the above poster suggested Excel may help as well.

What is the type and wattage of your lights and do you fertilize and with what?
I do not fertilize except maybe once a month with florapride @ 25 gallons worth of fert. What would make it under filtered the ammonia levels read at less than .02 consistantly (I have a 6 month reader on the glass and a 2 month ph reader. My next big purchase will probably be a canister filter for asthetic purposes but the tank has ran for 7 months now with no problems. thank you for time and help.
 

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Ok.
So you have 40Watts all together? That is not much light for 110 gallon tank.
How are your plants growing? How long do you leave your lights on for?
I do agree that you are underfiltered, but it is good that you do 40% water changes a week,
because of that, your readings are good.
I think maybe a powerhead to get some water moving around might be beneficial to you. Are you using the fish waste for your fertilizer?
Anyway... check this out. Might help you identify your algae.
http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok.
So you have 40Watts all together? That is not much light for 110 gallon tank.
How are your plants growing? How long do you leave your lights on for?
I do agree that you are underfiltered, but it is good that you do 40% water changes a week,
because of that, your readings are good.
I think maybe a powerhead to get some water moving around might be beneficial to you. Are you using the fish waste for your fertilizer?
Anyway... check this out. Might help you identify your algae.
http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/
Yes it is just 40 watts that are on for 11-12 hours a day. The plants grow at steady rate albiet slowly for some (I see about one to two new leaves on the swords a week and the anubias and others grow consistantly but I do not know how fast.) The plants are all as green as in the picture at the top. I do have a powerhead for the undergravel filter that constantly kicks the gunk off the bottom so the HOB can catch it. What did you mean by fish waste for fertilizer? And the type of algae is Spirogyra - Silk Algae, Water Silk.
 

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fish waste is the fish poop. People who do not fertilize on a weekly basis sometimes use the fish waste in their tank for fertilizer for the plants in the tank. You can do this, not use fertilizer and NPK, which is nitrogen, potassium and phosphate, as long as your lights aren't heavy on the wattage for your size tank.
I would read that page and try to figure out why you have the algae. You have to try to do a process of elimination as to why you have it, and what you can do differently to get rid of it.
Most times algae is due to lighting, too much, and lights left on too long. CO2, too little. filtration, not enough, circulation, not enough.
 

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The lighting on the tank is 40 watts of flourescent, one 2' and one 18". The filter gets cleaned about once a month and changed completly every three. What is excel. I do my best not to add chemicals to the tank except a dechlorinator.
I know you don't like dosing, but getting back to the original question : What can I do about my thread/hair algae. Excel. The algae will stay and stay and may get worse and worse until you finnaly decide on a copper filled aglaecide to rid yourself of it. First thing I would do is purchase some Seachem Flourish Excel and start dosing that. Manually remove as much as you can. And then do the large water changes to get yourself back in balance. If it's been working fine for 7 months, then don't change it. Just get it back in balance and you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay so I did some research on EXCEL. It says it is a liquid form of carbon for daily dosing. At the bottom of thier facts it says that as long as used as directed it is safe for fish. First question, is thier a form of tablet carbon that is able to be used long term rather than daily. Second question, what do they mean by it may not be fish safe? Is this a "suffocation" factor if over dosed or something else. Also what can I do about excess Iron, the site you referred me to says that my algae can be caused by excess Iron. Also in regards to my filtration, is the Ehiem filter one of the better ones and is it quiet.
 

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Lack of water flow will also lead to algae. Stagnant water is ideal for thread algae growth. I can definitely testify to to this.

You might want to upgrade the HOB and underwater filters to a canister or add a pump to help increase the circulation.

...is there a form of tablet carbon that is able to be used long term rather than daily.
No there isn't. All the CO2 tablets for sale don't last more than two days and produce negligible CO2 levels.

what do they mean by it may not be fish safe? Is this a "suffocation" factor if over dosed or something else.
It is 100% fish safe when used as directed. As with any product, do not overdose.

Also in regards to my filtration, is the Ehiem filter one of the better ones and is it quiet.
I'm a big fan of the Eheim classic line. When operating correctly, it doesn't make any noise at all.
 

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In using Excel, you are going to use it for more as an"algaecide" then a carbon contributor. Spot treat the most affected areas of your plants as to slow or even kill the thread algae. I do agree with the stagnant water comment. Any sitting water will most definately contribute to algae breakouts, however my experience in stagnant water has lead to more bga, and green water then threads. Oh BTW, that .02 ppm of ammonia may not be much, but it's too much for any aquarium who is more than 2 months old. The cycling process is disturbed. Could be your filter. Could be a myriad of other causes ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh BTW, that .02 ppm of ammonia may not be much, but it's too much for any aquarium who is more than 2 months old. The cycling process is disturbed. Could be your filter. Could be a myriad of other causes ...
The ammonia is .02 or less I do not test it only moniter the doohickey ammonia gauge. Come to think of I have never tested any of my water parameters what is an inexpensive yet efficient test kit for the majority of testables. Also after examing my tank maybe another powerhead and a canister filter will be coming soon as this may solve it also. Any reccommendations for a good powerhead and filter combo. Also how does a Venturi work
 
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