The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys! i planted a tank with HC and i performed a dry start method where i waited 2 full months just to see water in my tank. well literally the DAY AFTER I FLOODED i found this...

i didnt know algae could grow that fast!!!! how do i get rid of it. i have 3 amano and a molly in there right now but they arnt making a dent....just more amano? PLEASE HELP! i need to solve this issue before all my HC get chocked out and i gotta start all over again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,360 Posts
Ew. You sure that's algae? It looks pretty gross, like the buildup of dead green algae in one of the canisters I had laying outside for months.

I would physically remove it, tear it off and scrape where the base was, as there's really no other way you can deal with it right now without killing your HC.

After you flood, just continue to physically remove the algae and do large water changes until you balance your nutrients/co2/lighting. With dedication it'll eventually go away.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
374 Posts
I can't tell 100% based on the pictures (higher resolution would be nice), but it looks like you have two different algae blooms going on. (Can someone else verify?)

To me it looks like you got a diatom (brown algae) and a green algae bloom. I almost always get a brown algae breakout when I start a new tank and I've found the best way to limit the extent of the bloom is to do massive water changes (~80% to 100%) for ~1 week. I think the BA bloom happens because there's an excess of nutrients which leach out of the soil in a new tank. You'll still have to do some scraping and siphoning out of the algae though, but if you do water changes it will really limit the growth of the brown algae (it will probably also slow down the green algae).

Also, keep an eye out for your water parameters... If you're using new ADA aquasoil the ammonia it leaches out into the water column may be enough to kill your amanos...

What kind of substrate are you using?
How large is your tank?
What are your water parameters (ammonia, nitrites, nitrate)?

[EDIT] Also, keep in mind that large water changes will potentially be harmful/stressful to your molly and shrimp. If you go this route, my advice would be to relocate them until you've gone through a week of those water changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
Did you cycle the filter if you did get some ottos they love drown tide the cleaned my 29g in 5 days it wasn't that thick but it was on every thing including the glass. I had five otts. How big is your tank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My tank is a 7.5 gallon rimless.
My substrate is "azoo" plant grower bed.
My filter is a 511 nano with rough to fine filter media in it... Neither the filter or the media had ever been used and its just filter floss so i don't think that's the problem. The lights might be an issue, i did not ease back into the lights. I have 36W of high output 6500K LED's so maybe the plants arnt using up the nutrients?
I have no idea what my parameters are as i go 25% water changes every day and don't bother taking readings as any discrepancies should be fixed with the water changes :p

One thing to note is that i cant scrape it off of the plants that easy cause its stuck on there pretty good...the algae will pull up clumps of the soil as i try to remove it from the surface.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
When you flood a tank after DSM, plants go from c02 unlimited to c02 limited. Since the plants have less c02 available, they need to spend more energy procuring c02. This is why it is necessary to dial back the lights. I think most start around a 4-hour photo period.

How high are your lights above the tank? You may also want to raise them higher as well as reducing photo-period. That sounds like a lot of light for a 7.5g, but hard to tell without PAR measurements.

Are you injecting c02? I have never done an HC carpet, but I thought the stuff has a tough time during this transition without it. Can HC handle excel? If so, you might want to dose excel. It is an organic source of c02 for the plants and has unadvertised algecidal properties. I dosed excel during my transition period for crypts and anubias when i went from dry to flooded.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
374 Posts
L1ttlebear, do you have any CO2 being injected into the system right now? 36W of LED lighting on 7.5 gallons is a bit overkill... With such a high level of lighting you'll need pretty high CO2 injection otherwise you'll be fighting an uphill battle against algae outbreaks.

I don't have much experience with that soil, but I'm pretty sure you're running into an issue of there being TOO MANY nutrients in your water column (instead of too little). There's probably too much for the HC to even absorb, so the algae are probably going to town right now (in combination with the high light).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea i have a CO2 system running right now. I also have excell so ill dump some in and see what happens :p Thanks for the advice guys! Ill place a black mesh over my lights to dial the PAR down a bit and see if that helps!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
374 Posts
No problem. If you have CO2 running, I'd crank up the bubbles per sec as high as you can. Even better, i'd take out the molly and the amano's and crank up the bps to like 3 or 4 and just reduce the lighting. Even putting 1/4" of acrylic in front of a light can dial down to PAR significantly so a black mesh might not even be necessary if you have enough bps.

Of course, make sure you try and scrub/siphon out as much of that algae as you can first so that your HC can grow. The high BPS + high light and good nutrients will make them explode!

Good luck!
 

·
Surrounded by Blyxa
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
Remove the critters, crank up the CO2 and overdose excel by 2 to 3x or so. Manually remove algae the best you can. Before putting in critters again, slowly reduce CO2 level. Use a drop checker to make sure you are ballpark. Your HC is going to melt unless you can keep the CO2 level VERY high for the transition from DSM and it's going to be a mess.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top