The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing a low tech shrimp tank setup. Basically, my confusion comes as, what PAR level should I do for no CO2 setup.

I bought a Finnex StingRAY LED Clip thinking to be an upgrade to the stock LED comes with Fluval Spec 3. But to my surprise the Finnex light is way dimmer. So I tested both with PAR meter:

* Finnex light: top of wood - ~60 PAR, on substrate: 20-30 PAR
* Fluval light: top of wood - 200+ PAR, on substrate: 60~70 PAR, 4 watt.

I put the Fluval light about an inch higher. If put to default position, it can reach 300 PAR at top.

Then I found in here that, high light was considered 50+ PAR. Does it mean the Fluval stock light is way too strong for no CO2 setup? Honestly it doesn't look too bright to the eye, not so much than T5 highlight setup I see in LFS. The Finnex one is way too dim to see the tank. So I don't know what I should trust now. Attached two picture of the two lights on the tank. It's hard to capture the difference in brightness with phone, but you can kinda see the difference in from the curtain brightness.

Also, the tank is about 3 weeks old. It started with this light. I'm dosing PPS Pro, and there are not much algae. But last week it burnt out 3/4 of the chip, so I returned, and put back stock light. Couple days later, hair algae covered top of the wood work. It was then I tested for PAR and shocked by 300+, that's higher than my reef tank... So I took the Finnex light from another tank, as well as reduced fertilizer to half. Now it's several days after running it, the green hair algae seems less but brown algae (I think it's dino) are still some. But the carpet plant, Micranthemum monte carlo, have most old leaves melted away. The melting away was expected as it's tissue culture growing emerge. It's the sudden increase in speed that surprise me. For the first 2 and a half week, the old leaves only get lighter, then the last several day it suddenly completely gone. While it happen when I was running the lower power light, does that cause it to melt faster?

Which light should I continue to use? Or do I need another one?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,678 Posts
Stingray is 4W, Fluval is 8W (10W by power supply rating, not accurate).... 2x the power..
ETA:

The light is listed as 10 input watts, 7.4 LED watts, 821 lumens, 7000k temp, 37 leds. It does look rather blue, doesn't it?

The "on substrate" clearly reflects that................
On top shows the difference between one row and 3 rows.

normally would suggest putting in a dimmer for the Fluval but at 5V power supply that is "problematic" most cheap dimmers work on 12-24V.
I've gone down to 9 w/ no problem but almost 100% positive won't work w/ 5V..........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stingray is 4W, Fluval is 8W (10W by power supply rating, not accurate).... 2x the power..



The "on substrate" clearly reflects that................
On top shows the difference between one row and 3 rows.

normally would suggest putting in a dimmer for the Fluval but at 5V power supply that is "problematic" most cheap dimmers work on 12-24V.
I've gone down to 9 w/ no problem but almost 100% positive won't work w/ 5V..........
Which light should I run? I'm not sure what's the correct level of light should be. I'm currently running only 7 hours a day trying to control algae. Also should I continue dosing fertilizer daily or should I stop?
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top