Converted picture so people good see it without having to open pdf
Final Sump layout
What do you guys think of final sump layout? Anything I should change or should I give the builder the OK to start? The first baffle area that 7.625, is going to also have a drip tray. Also the entire sump will have a Lid.
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I still don't see how a drip tray is going to work as a drip tray (unless I'm missing something), but it looks good other than that.
Don't you want your last baffle to flow over the top into the pump chamber to control sump water height?
Whoops, I missed that part. I had originally made that suggestion in the OPs original thread. My reasoning was that you would only need to worry about water loss in the return section rather than the return and bio section (and the bio media drying out).Don't you want your last baffle to flow over the top into the pump chamber to control sump water height?
And its generally not a good idea to have a baffle go all the way to the top of the sump. It will help reduce the chance of an overflow.
They are supposed to update the image for me next week to show how this will work, along with a few other changes. I will post when they send it.I still don't see how a drip tray is going to work as a drip tray (unless I'm missing something), but it looks good other than that.
Thanks for feedback.
What is the height of the final baffle? Also, what return pump do you plan on using?
From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action.
It's just about there!
From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action.
It's just about there!
Info below, not sure, what happened to my postWhat is the height of the final baffle? Also, what return pump do you plan on using?
From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action.
It's just about there!
Forgot pump info
Waveline DC12000 pump with Controller
Model: DC-12000
Input: DC24V 7A
(Converted by AC100-240V 50/60Hz
Wattage: 170W at full speed
(Measured After Adaptor)
Flow rate: Max. 3170GPH / 12000LPH
Flow Height: Max. 6 meters / 19.9 feet
Dimension: 7.1" x 4.2" x 5.8"
Water inlet: External D: 50mm, Internal D: 1.5"
NPT
Water outlet: External D: 40mm, Internal D: 1.25"
NPT
6 speeds controllers included
Will also have 2 other small pumps in that section, one for my CO2 reactor, and one for my UV. Both will just dump right back into that area. That why 2 holes in the front and back. Waveline will be in the center.
Waveline DC12000 pump with Controller
Model: DC-12000
Input: DC24V 7A
(Converted by AC100-240V 50/60Hz
Wattage: 170W at full speed
(Measured After Adaptor)
Flow rate: Max. 3170GPH / 12000LPH
Flow Height: Max. 6 meters / 19.9 feet
Dimension: 7.1" x 4.2" x 5.8"
Water inlet: External D: 50mm, Internal D: 1.5"
NPT
Water outlet: External D: 40mm, Internal D: 1.25"
NPT
6 speeds controllers included
Will also have 2 other small pumps in that section, one for my CO2 reactor, and one for my UV. Both will just dump right back into that area. That why 2 holes in the front and back. Waveline will be in the center.
What is the height of the final baffle...Not sure sent them email to find outWhat is the height of the final baffle? Also, what return pump do you plan on using?
From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action.
It's just about there!
From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO. Both are on the bottom, what do you suggest would work better?
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action. Yep on bottom, what do you suggest I have them change?
Thank you for your help, it just annoying the guy coming up with how to built it would take it into account as well, since they do this every day for a living. :icon_roll
Make sure that last baffle is higher than the height of the pump. I would assume it is since it is a 75g sump (?), but now is the time to make sure.Forgot pump info
Waveline DC12000 pump with Controller
Dimension: 7.1" x 4.2" x 5.8"
If you have a decent height difference from the baffle to the top of the drip tray, you can keep it if you want. Just double check that you will be getting some sort of drip, or else you're just going to be paying for extra material.
Any info on that second-to-last section?
From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO. Both are on the bottom, what do you suggest would work better?
** You want an over - under flow of water. The way it is set up now water is just going to be going over and over, meaning that there will be all that undisturbed water that isn't on the surface of that section. Granted there will be SOME water movement, but the large majority of that area will be nearly-stagnant. To correct this, have them put in a suspended baffle (just like the left vertical piece of the drip tray) to the right of that last baffle. That way water will have to go under that suspended baffle before going over the final one, giving you some better water movement in that second-to-last section.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action. Yep on bottom, what do you suggest I have them change?
** If you want to keep that drip tray, just make sure that there will be a height difference to allow for the drip to work properly.
Thank you for your help, it just annoying all these things you point I out which is great, I would thing the guy coming up with how to built it would take it into account as well, since they do this every day for a living. :icon_roll
** Any time. If I'm missing something, hopefully someone will jump in as well. You have to remember that these guys usually do SW setups, which require some different designing.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, you might be able to go without that second-to-last section (7.250"). What were you planning on putting in it?
** You want an over - under flow of water. The way it is set up now water is just going to be going over and over, meaning that there will be all that undisturbed water that isn't on the surface of that section. Granted there will be SOME water movement, but the large majority of that area will be nearly-stagnant. To correct this, have them put in a suspended baffle (just like the left vertical piece of the drip tray) to the right of that last baffle. That way water will have to go under that suspended baffle before going over the final one, giving you some better water movement in that second-to-last section.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action. Yep on bottom, what do you suggest I have them change?
** If you want to keep that drip tray, just make sure that there will be a height difference to allow for the drip to work properly.
Thank you for your help, it just annoying all these things you point I out which is great, I would thing the guy coming up with how to built it would take it into account as well, since they do this every day for a living. :icon_roll
** Any time. If I'm missing something, hopefully someone will jump in as well. You have to remember that these guys usually do SW setups, which require some different designing.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, you might be able to go without that second-to-last section (7.250"). What were you planning on putting in it?
Thanks for the info. Not sure what I was going to put in that area, not really set in stone, I had the extra room so I had them make that area, do you think it would be better off to do away with it?From the picture, I can't tell where the last two baffles are (the two that make up the 7.250" section). If they are both touching the bottom, then that is just wasted space IMO. Both are on the bottom, what do you suggest would work better?
** You want an over - under flow of water. The way it is set up now water is just going to be going over and over, meaning that there will be all that undisturbed water that isn't on the surface of that section. Granted there will be SOME water movement, but the large majority of that area will be nearly-stagnant. To correct this, have them put in a suspended baffle (just like the left vertical piece of the drip tray) to the right of that last baffle. That way water will have to go under that suspended baffle before going over the final one, giving you some better water movement in that second-to-last section.
As far as the drip tray section goes, the section will be under water (most likely) up to the height of the 2nd to last baffle (the one that says "we may need to add holes", although it may actually be the last baffle depending on heights). If that is the same height as the top of the grating for the drip tray lid, then the bio bale will be completely underwater. If there is a difference in height, then that difference will give you some media out of the water, giving you a better "drip" action. Yep on bottom, what do you suggest I have them change?
** If you want to keep that drip tray, just make sure that there will be a height difference to allow for the drip to work properly.
Thank you for your help, it just annoying all these things you point I out which is great, I would thing the guy coming up with how to built it would take it into account as well, since they do this every day for a living. :icon_roll
** Any time. If I'm missing something, hopefully someone will jump in as well. You have to remember that these guys usually do SW setups, which require some different designing.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, you might be able to go without that second-to-last section (7.250"). What were you planning on putting in it?
Personally, if I didn't have anything else planned for putting in the sump, I'd get rid of it.
That will end up cutting 7-8" off the total length of the sump, meaning that it [should] end up being cheaper.
I don't remember if you mentioned previously, but what is your planned tank size? If you wanted to keep that section, have them put in that suspended baffle and you can always put in some more bio media and/or water polishing materials.
That will end up cutting 7-8" off the total length of the sump, meaning that it [should] end up being cheaper.
I don't remember if you mentioned previously, but what is your planned tank size? If you wanted to keep that section, have them put in that suspended baffle and you can always put in some more bio media and/or water polishing materials.
The tank is 200 gallons, it something I plan to keep for very long time, so wanted to get nice sump with it as well.Personally, if I didn't have anything else planned for putting in the sump, I'd get rid of it.
That will end up cutting 7-8" off the total length of the sump, meaning that it [should] end up being cheaper.
I don't remember if you mentioned previously, but what is your planned tank size? If you wanted to keep that section, have them put in that suspended baffle and you can always put in some more bio media and/or water polishing materials.
I wanted to use the drip tray for bio-bale, the next section for poret foam, then after that, I guess more bio media or polishing materials as you suggested.
In that case, I would probably keep that last baffle and introduce more media or whatever else you find you'll end up needing.
At the cost of sounding cliche, it's better to have an extra section and not need it than to need one and not have it. If you end up not needing it, you can throw a heater in there or whatever else.
At the cost of sounding cliche, it's better to have an extra section and not need it than to need one and not have it. If you end up not needing it, you can throw a heater in there or whatever else.
Ok, I will keep that in mind. What do you think about having the last baffle raised for the return area so the water would come over the 2nd baffle from the left, and under into the return area? I could have them put a tray in that area like at the bottom of the wet/dry, and put my heaters under that section, and more bio media on top? Doing a search online, I have seen several online like this. Don't know if it would work or not?In that case, I would probably keep that last baffle and introduce more media or whatever else you find you'll end up needing.
At the cost of sounding cliche, it's better to have an extra section and not need it than to need one and not have it. If you end up not needing it, you can throw a heater in there or whatever else.
If you only use one baffle raised at the end like you described, then you will have water loss in the last two sections rather than just the last section alone (like the last baffle here? : http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=312777&d=1398717897).
I would put two baffles at the end: one coming up from the bottom and one raised up from the bottom. For your setup, it doesn't really matter which side you put the raised baffle on (ie before or after the one attached to the bottom). If you had a saltwater setup, then it could matter depending on where your skimmer went, but I've never seen issues in freshwater setups with microbubbles as long as a double baffle was used.
If you want to be careful, you can put the raised baffle AFTER the bottom baffle. That way, any microbubbles that show up from the water spilling over the bottom baffle get stuck in the gap and hopefully go up and out rather than into the return section. Of course, some will end up there, but I've never seen any microbubbles end up in the display tank.
I would put two baffles at the end: one coming up from the bottom and one raised up from the bottom. For your setup, it doesn't really matter which side you put the raised baffle on (ie before or after the one attached to the bottom). If you had a saltwater setup, then it could matter depending on where your skimmer went, but I've never seen issues in freshwater setups with microbubbles as long as a double baffle was used.
If you want to be careful, you can put the raised baffle AFTER the bottom baffle. That way, any microbubbles that show up from the water spilling over the bottom baffle get stuck in the gap and hopefully go up and out rather than into the return section. Of course, some will end up there, but I've never seen any microbubbles end up in the display tank.
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