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Filter material that will help decrease organics

1288 Views 19 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  houseofcards
This is not my question originally but I would like to know very much.
What is the difference between products such as Chemipure, OrganitR, IonitR, Redoxiclean? Note the last 3 are all Brightwell products and all claim to enhance the rate of particulate and dissolved organic material decomposition, or something similar.

Does anyone know the differences between such products?
Does anyone have experience using these or other organic reducing products?
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Any ideas?
I'm no expert but I've only heard good things about Seachem Purigen. Personally I've used it in a 65g which it keep clear even after adding new drift wood and having a few plants kick the bucket and deposit a fair amount of organics.

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Have used a few of the chemical media product's mentioned, and have come to the realization that the one thing they all have in common is.. to lighten your billfold.
Can achieve the same effect's with regular maint ,water changes,not overfeeding,overstocking.
With that said,,I used to be quite fond of result's from Purigen,Chemipure when i kept larger south american cichlid's ( often too many)..
+1 to above
Have used a few of the chemical media product's mentioned, and have come to the realization that the one thing they all have in common is.. to lighten your billfold.
Can achieve the same effect's with regular maint ,water changes,not overfeeding,overstocking.
With that said,,I used to be quite fond of result's from Purigen,Chemipure when i kept larger south american cichlid's ( often too many)..
Some people (like me) have water with a relatively high TDS. So to get extremely clear water we have to either use RO water or use a product like Purigen.

Price-wise, which would you choose? A one-time $20 cost for some Purigen or $150 initial cost + recurring costs for RO water?
Not exactly true at least according to seachem. Every regeneration ( which takes using bleach ) takes away 10% of it's effectiveness roughly, and is only good for 6-10 regenerations, and cant get r/o systems for much cheaper, how extensive or expensive is going to be determined by your means for one. I know a few reefers who sell r/o water to a few people for their reef tanks @ 50 cents per gallon, and it pays for any membrane replacements, and eventually the cost of the r/o unit. So long term personally i see it as the better investment, of course depending on each person's situation.
Not exactly true at least according to seachem. Every regeneration ( which takes using bleach ) takes away 10% of it's effectiveness roughly, and is only good for 6-10 regenerations, and cant get r/o systems for much cheaper, how extensive or expensive is going to be determined by your means for one. I know a few reefers who sell r/o water to a few people for their reef tanks @ 50 cents per gallon, and it pays for any membrane replacements, and eventually the cost of the r/o unit. So long term personally i see it as the better investment, of course depending on each person's situation.
Good quality RO systems still cost in the $150-$250 range. You might be able to get a refurb'd unit in the $100-$150 range but you won't find one for the $10 that Purigen costs.

Saying you can sell RO water doesn't really apply when comparing the two. As far as reselling RO water, you could also buy Purigen cheaper in large amounts, break it up into smaller amounts and resell for a profit. For most people Purigen will be much cheaper. Even at 6 regenerations that's 3+ years of use for < $10. Even for the smallest tanks the cost of just the waste water from RO over 3 years is much higher than that.
Depends on how many stages you need will determine the price, but lets say you pick a decent 5 stage system for $200- brand new that can do 75gpd.
If you had several tanks like most of us have you'd be spending more then $10-, but i assume your talking about the big chain store baggy version x's the number of tanks x's the amount of replacements you'll have to buy over time the R/O unit will probably be cheaper, not to mention way more effective, and no risk of use using bleach to regenerate.

A singular tank, or some small tanks i guess the baggy's would be ok, i guess, but not everyone needs it, and people tend to push it without even evaluating if the person actually needs it.

Selling does apply cause my point is based on a long term savings of $, and you can offset your cost's by the example given where you can't offset costs with purigen. How often it's regenerated varies tank to tank. It can take a couple weeks to a couple months per use. There's no set formula as to when, except knowing when.

There's no mention of size of tank or livestock kept.
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Depends on how many stages you need will determine the price, but lets say you pick a decent 5 stage system for $200- brand new that can do 75gpd.
If you had several tanks like most of us have you'd be spending more then $10-, but i assume your talking about the big chain store baggy version x's the number of tanks x's the amount of replacements you'll have to buy over time the R/O unit will probably be cheaper, not to mention way more effective, and no risk of use using bleach to regenerate.

A singular tank, or some small tanks i guess the baggy's would be ok, i guess, but not everyone needs it, and people tend to push it without even evaluating if the person actually needs it.

Selling does apply cause my point is based on a long term savings of $, and you can offset your cost's by the example given where you can't offset costs with purigen. How often it's regenerated varies tank to tank. It can take a couple weeks to a couple months per use. There's no set formula as to when, except knowing when.

There's no mention of size of tank or livestock kept.
Purigen for most tanks is actually cheaper than $10 (~$8) and if you're doing large or multiple tanks you can buy in bulk and it ends up being even cheaper than that per tank. Most people get many years (3+) out of one purchase and even then it's still cheaper then just the cost of the wasted water for a high efficiency RO system (not to mention low efficiency units).

As far as the bleach aspect.. Mishandling anything can be dangerous. Bleach is far from dangerous if you're just a little bit careful. Even RO water can be bad if you don't change the filters often enough and chlorine stays in the water. Of course it's easy to check but it's just as easy to wash the Purigen clean.

And if you want to consider ofsetting costs, you could buy a 20L of Purigen, use what you need and then split the rest up into 100ml bags and resell for a nice profit (more profit than selling RO water at $0.50 per gallon).

Now, if Purigen was super expensive it would be another story but I don't know anyone who would consider a cost of less than $2/year expensive for the spectacular results achieved. On the other hand, the cost of RO filters and waste water make it prohibitively expensive to use on my 260 gallon tank.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree but the winner is clear in my eyes. I own a RO unit to get better water for my shrimp tank and I still use Purigen to keep the water crystal clear.
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I don't actually think Purigen will help with TDS. I"m pretty sure it removes only the organics / contaminants before they breakdown.
I don't actually think Purigen will help with TDS. I"m pretty sure it removes only the organics / contaminants before they breakdown.
TDS is a mixture of organic and inorganic solids. New water is noticeably clearer after going through the Purigen than without it.
TDS is a mixture of organic and inorganic solids. New water is noticeably clearer after going through the Purigen than without it.
That is technically true, but I don't believe Purigen removes organics that are dissolved to that size.
There isn't a "material" that is going to help with organics other than trapping it. You want organics to break down so you need a strong good bacteria colony. I'm not sure if it's feasible and would actually speed up the breakdown noticeably but increasing your bio filtration may be worth a shot. Maybe dedicate a filter just to bio/bacteria
My point isn't against purigen, or debate it as a product, it's offering an alternative option just in case. No mention of tank size, or livestock, and automatically purigen is mentioned. It's become very trendy to, and automatic to say purigen. So i added my 2 cents.

Purigen for most tanks is actually cheaper than $10 (~$8) and if you're doing large or multiple tanks you can buy in bulk and it ends up being even cheaper than that per tank. Most people get many years (3+) out of one purchase and even then it's still cheaper then just the cost of the wasted water for a high efficiency RO system (not to mention low efficiency units).

As far as the bleach aspect.. Mishandling anything can be dangerous. Bleach is far from dangerous if you're just a little bit careful. Even RO water can be bad if you don't change the filters often enough and chlorine stays in the water. Of course it's easy to check but it's just as easy to wash the Purigen clean.

And if you want to consider ofsetting costs, you could buy a 20L of Purigen, use what you need and then split the rest up into 100ml bags and resell for a nice profit (more profit than selling RO water at $0.50 per gallon).

Now, if Purigen was super expensive it would be another story but I don't know anyone who would consider a cost of less than $2/year expensive for the spectacular results achieved. On the other hand, the cost of RO filters and waste water make it prohibitively expensive to use on my 260 gallon tank.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree but the winner is clear in my eyes. I own a RO unit to get better water for my shrimp tank and I still use Purigen to keep the water crystal clear.
When we talk about organics and TDS things can be misleading. TDS meters count an ion or bound molecular compound to have a charge of at least +/- 1. There are some organics that simply are neutral which a TDS meter will not detect.

Purigen will take out many organic compounds from the water such as tannins, and other charged and non charged organics. It's pretty selective what it picks up. Usually only the larger molecules are able to bind to Purigen's media.
I believe we can all agree that Purigen will not help in reducing the build up of dissolved organics such as nitrates and nitrites. These can only be removed via water changes, nitryfing bacteria or taken up as nutrients by plants.

As far as tannins, large cation/anion and other non-desirable organics that discolor your water, Purigen should work just fine.
As far as tannins, large cation/anion and other non-desirable organics that discolor your water, Purigen should work just fine.

Right, but those r not typically part of TDS.
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