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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, bare with me here. I took a crack at plantedtAnk about 3 years ago and fail miserbly. So now I'm back and want to do it right. I've read the whole thread on EI dosing and search this forum like crazy but I'm still confused. I'm more of a physical visual type person than reading on paper. I currently have a 40gal which is heavily planted. I'm using pressurized co2 and running t5ho. The only ferts I've been doising are Flourish comprehension, potassium, and iron. 2x weekly. The only algae problem I have is GSA.

Well I found a seller who is getting out of the hobby and is selling these ferts ( Potassim Nitrate,Iron Chelate, CSM+B, Potassium Sulfate, PMDD, Mono Potassium, GH Booster). What exaclty does each do to the plants and what are the scientific abbreviation for them?

SORRY for the long post. tHanks
 

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Plants specifically need potassium, nitrogen, phosphorous and various other elements, but in very minute quantities, so they are lumped together as "trace elements". Potassium nitrate, or KNO3, provides both potassium and nitrogen. Mono Potassium Phosphate, or KH2PO4, provides phosphorous and a very small amount of potassium. With just those two chemicals you are supplying the major nutrients the plants need. CSM+B is a trace element mix which provides the various elements called "trace elements". If you dose just those three substances you are fertilizing the plants with a complete diet of what they need to grow well.

If your tap water contains high nitrates, and that is the case for a very few people, you could eliminate dosing nitrogen (potassium nitrate), but that would leave the plants short of potassium. So, you could dose Potassium Sulfate, or K2SO4, to provide the missing potassium. Iron chelate is a substance that can be used to supply extra iron to the plants, although there is no demonstrated need to do so. PMDD, which stands for "poor man's dupla drops", is an obsolete mixture of the above chemicals, minus the phosphate, that was one of the first efforts to DIY aquatic plant fertilizers. It is not an adequate mixture to use. GH Booster is primarily intended for those who use RO/DI water - it replaces the calcium, magnesium and other minerals that plants need, which were removed by the reverse osmosis, deionizing process. It is also used to increase the hardness of the water, and make sure that adequate magnesium is included in the GH.

The specific effects of those chemicals isn't necessary to know - they help the plants to grow in good health.
 

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Okay, bare with me here. I took a crack at plantedtAnk about 3 years ago and fail miserbly. So now I'm back and want to do it right. I've read the whole thread on EI dosing and search this forum like crazy but I'm still confused. I'm more of a physical visual type person than reading on paper. I currently have a 40gal which is heavily planted. I'm using pressurized co2 and running t5ho. The only ferts I've been doising are Flourish comprehension, potassium, and iron. 2x weekly. The only algae problem I have is GSA.
EI is about as simple as it's going to get, if you are confused, then it may be from over thinking things/worry wart.

Add ferts(there are 3-4 things only to add), do water change to prevent build up.

That's pretty simple.

The toilet is full, flush it.

Same thing:cool:

40 Gal tank with T5's, this is a fair amount of light, even if it's 2 x 39W.
I'd run decent current, good filtration.

Add plenty of plants.

I think the issue for most has much more to do with too much light and not enough CO2/poor usage of CO2.

Nutrients are easy.
It's not all about nutrients, they are just one aspect plants need.
If you want better growth, in general, focus your efforts of watching the tank, and adjusting the CO2 slowly and carefully over time. Do not rush, do not get impatient.

For a 40 Gal tank with sand/flourite EC etc:

KNO3 2-3x a week 1/2 teaspoon
KH2PO4: 1/8th teaspoon 3x a week
Add 1 tablespoon of the CMS+B to 1 liter of water, add 10mls of this 3x a week
GH booster: 1 teaspoon after water change

Do a weekly 50%(or more, or a little less, up to you)
That's it.

You can modify it to suit after..........you fully master good CO2(much more difficult than anything nutrient related).

The other option is to use something like soil or ADA aqua soil alogn with water column dosing, this makes dosing the water column easier and more forgiving.

So lower light, good CO2 focus and just general consistent dosing.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am honor. But Tom and Hoppy to the rescue. I pretty much have just about everything right then as far as co2 distribution, lights, and substrate. Thanks for help guys. Now I feel more comfortable EI dosing. Thanks again.
 
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