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Female betta with ovipositor?

20505 Views 36 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  LilGreenPuffer
Would this mean shes ready to breed??



You can see it sticking out. Its been like this for 3 days. Is she ok?

Thank you,

kelly
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She's plump, so yeah she's ready. Usually another sign is vertical bars on her body but it's not possible to see in a white or blond betta.

Did she make those bubbles above her?

Don't introduce a male in the tank with her at first. Let them meet through a divider first.
Oh thats exciting!! I wanted to breed her, but i haven't got the male yet. How long will she stay like this? How long until the male and the female can breed?
As long as she is fed well, she will stay that way.

Lower the water level and fill a glass mason jar with the tank water, put the female in the jar and lower the jar in the water. Let the male loose in the tank and when he is done building the nest (could take a day or three), release her, once they breed remove the female. Wait 3 days or until the male cannot control the fry, remove him. Feed the babies infusoria, once big enough then bbs
Oh, thanks for the fast reply. It was very very helpful. I must get a male first. :/ Im hopefully getting one today. My females about an inch and a half do I need a male at least 2 inches?

Should I remove the gravel in the breeding tank as well?
Bare bottom tank would be easy for clean up and for the dad to pick up the eggs, but isn't extremely necessary. Almost all male Betta's you can buy are old/big enough for breeding. Also turn off filtration/airstone, and slowly start adding water back once the fry are getting older. Another tip is to cut a styrofoam cup in half and float it on top of water, with tape holding it in place, He will most likely make the nest there.
The big time breeders start their breeding at around 4 months old. Most fish at the store are at least that age to ensure good size and fins.

From what I understand, you do want the male to be bigger than the female.

Google some betta breeding tips; there's tons of info out there about it, and it can really help if you get caught in a tough spot and aren't sure what to do.

Another great food to give to fry is vinegar eels. They are stupid easy to culture and will help give your fry some variety.
ultimatebettas.com has a big breeding section with articles and so forth. Do lots of reading before you get started!
Bare bottom tank would be easy for clean up and for the dad to pick up the eggs, but isn't extremely necessary. Almost all male Betta's you can buy are old/big enough for breeding. Also turn off filtration/airstone, and slowly start adding water back once the fry are getting older. Another tip is to cut a styrofoam cup in half and float it on top of water, with tape holding it in place, He will most likely make the nest there.
Would I have to do many water changes with the young fry? And i shouldnt use a filter when breeding?
Yes, lots of water changes to keep the tank clean and the babies healthy.
No, no filter during breeding- it'll disturb the bubble nest.

Before you breed, I'd really suggest reading a few different articles. Bettas are very time consuming to breed and raise properly to adulthood.
Would you do water changes every day? How much water would I take out of a 10 gallon tank, if I cleaned it for the fry? Do I need a sponge filter when fry are free swimming? Do i remove the male when the fry are free swimming? Sorry to ask all these questions. Ive been doing my research though! :)
I would start a sponge filter once they are free swimming, at a really slow rate, and slowly increase the bubbles throughout brooding. I wouldn't change too much water at a time. Maybe remove a half gallon, and replace with a gallon. As often as you see fit, until the tank is filled back up.

You will want to remove the male as soon as they are free swimming, because he will still try to put them back in the nest, and then he will go crazy trying to manage them, and eat them.
I always kept a running air-driven filter, either a little corner box filter or a sponge filter, in both my spawning and my fry-raising tanks to keep the tanks cycled. I just kept the air turned way down low to minimize current and water surface disturbance. As long as I had floating plants for the male to make his nest in, the filter didn't bother the bubblenest.

+1 for www.ultimatebettas.com
Alright, I think I understand it all now. She's a bit fat, but not to much anymore. Im not sure anymore if she has eggs. :/ The male is pretty agresive, I hope they would get along and not kill each other.

"Don’t add water (yet). For the first month or so, don’t add water level. Keep the tank where it’s at (about 1/2 empty)."

( I found this on the web, Should I still do water changes when I need to anyway?)


Would hatching BBS be easy? For the fry's food? ( I didn't breed them yet, by the way)





Wouldn't they make a nice couple. :)
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I always kept a running air-driven filter, either a little corner box filter or a sponge filter, in both my spawning and my fry-raising tanks to keep the tanks cycled. I just kept the air turned way down low to minimize current and water surface disturbance. As long as I had floating plants for the male to make his nest in, the filter didn't bother the bubblenest.

+1 for www.ultimatebettas.com
Thank you Lauraleellbp, I will probably go to the store soon and pick up a sponge filter. I don't have any experience with sponge filters.
Yes, hatching BBS is very easy. You'll want to be sure to start up a new culture every other day, though, as as the BBS age, they use up their yolk sacs, which is the nutrition that benefit the fish most. You might also try feeding decapped brine shrimp eggs, I've heard some breeders have success with that and don't even hatch eggs any more.

Personally I always started fry off with infusoria, and I believe feeding infusoria helps ensure even the smallest of fry have a food source, plus feeding infusoria doesn't risk fouling the water like you risk if you overfeed with most other food sources (boiled egg yolk, BBS, etc). I'd switch over to BBS after the first week or so.

I didn't do water changes for at least the first week- I just added an inch of water every day until the tank was full before I started doing small water changes.
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Oh- and you'll probably want to re-condition your adults at this point. Feedings at least 2x/day with good quality foods for at least 2 weeks.
Yes, hatching BBS is very easy. You'll want to be sure to start up a new culture every other day, though, as as the BBS age, they use up their yolk sacs, which is the nutrition that benefit the fish most. You might also try feeding decapped brine shrimp eggs, I've heard some breeders have success with that and don't even hatch eggs any more.

Personally I always started fry off with infusoria, and I believe feeding infusoria helps ensure even the smallest of fry have a food source, plus feeding infusoria doesn't risk fouling the water like you risk if you overfeed with most other food sources (boiled egg yolk, BBS, etc). I'd switch over to BBS after the first week or so.

I didn't do water changes for at least the first week- I just added an inch of water every day until the tank was full before I started doing small water changes.



To get infusoria you have to put a piece of lettuce in a cup with water for a few days? Than the water clouds up, than the infusoria make the water clear and you net them out and feed to fry? ( does this seem right?)

How long should I feed them infusoria?
I can feed them boiled egg yolk?
Instead of infusoria can I just feed the fry BBS?
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