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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hatching decapped brine shrimp for them. At what point do I start feeding. Some are on the leaf, some on the bare bottom and some on the sponge filter. Do I wait until they are free-swimming in the water column to feed?

Even with a magnifying glass I'm not sure I'll know when the egg sack is gone.

I haven't raised angels since 1969. Most of that experience was using liquid fry food in a tube to pollute the water and kill them all.
 

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i'm completely in the dark on hatching decapped brines. didn't know you could hatch those

feeding free swimmers here is day 2. if they start releasing today i feed the following day when all are off and moving. if you feed on the first day many will overeat and go to ground

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I buy decapped eggs from brineshrimpdirect.com. They have both hatching and non-hatching. Hatch rate is low (about 60% or so) but it beats messing with all the shells. Fed them daily for several years to my SW prop system. In SW I'd just hatch, strain and dump it all in.

Fry are moving, just not moving around much. I started a hatch batch last night so I should have some to feed tonight since it's been warm here. This is all in my garage at home. This is their first spawn and it seems the male didn't get the aiming thing down yet. lol

I pulled the spawn from the tank to stop the aggression. I'd planned on trashing it but the wife wouldn't let me. lol
 

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bwahahaha! wife says; oh my! they are soooo cute!
hehehe i gotta dozen tanks outta that one

the method i use gets me around the shell issue for the most part
i'll poke around and find my detailed blah blah on how i'm doing it

typing sucks right now
 

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bbs farming

2 - 2 liter bottle base units sold on foster & smith.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...fm?pcatid=4445
Cost currently is $9.99 (LOL 5.99 when I bought mine) add to that the smallest air pump, check valve and air manifold along with empty soda bottles, that's it.
I reset one bottle every night.

Feeding;
I pull the airline off the manifold pinning it above the bottle, just holding it above the hatchery water level. Allow the water to settle and the shells float up. With a light low on the side of the bottle the shrimp go low. after about a minute I lower the tube holding it over a brine shrimp net which is held over a plastic cup for about 3-5 seconds then reconnect the airline.

Carry the net to the sink for the fresh water rinse and put them in the tank. The brine water from the drain cup pours back in the hatchery.

Tricks that work;
When you cut the bottom out of the 2 liter soda bottle,,, save it.
The soda bottles are flared slightly before rounding for the bottom where the plastic is thicker. I cut it on the straight part and place it upside down back on the now top of the hatchery to collect condensation and muffle the bubble noise as an inverted lid. New spawns for the first week or until fins form and the fry gain size I add a small spoon of new eggs from AngelsPlus everyday. When the fry are larger like now in my 55g I load two spoons of eggs everyday.

Fish breeders often talk about setting up new bottles every day with fresh saltwater and killing off bacteria. That makes raising brine shrimp much harder than it needs to be. The old/used egg shells are easily removed and the water re used. If it stinks I change it. 13 days on the same water and more if it passes the sniff test.

Once the babies have been fed the second or third time on a bottle (end of the day) before pouring in the water strained though the net gathering bbs 'I 'clean' the bottle. How is I hook the air line back up, at this point the bottle usually has about 1/2 the water still in it. Using the same fine mesh shrimp net used for harvesting I net out the husks by repeatedly scooping though the water rubbing the sides with the net frame loosening anything stuck to the sides and rinse the net in the sink. Reload with fresh eggs, add the water from the brine drain cups back in and put the lid on.

done!

2 liter brine shrimp rig.




HTH :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use that same base. I had to drill out the hole and force feed the tubing into the bottom. I think the barb broke off the first time I used it.

Never thought of draining/collecting them out the bottom of the hatchery.

Thanks for the replies and pics. It really helps.
 

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haha thanks, one handed and hurting worse than ever but the meds help.
doc said he cut all the crap out so it should heal right given time.
i forgot to give my wife credit as she helped on the big post lol

i should get the use of my fingers on the left hand back friday
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've managed to keep about 50 alive to this point. They're actually starting to look like an angelfish.

I'd guess most of my losses were from starvation or from bad water quality. I had made a dumb move when I added the sponge filter to the tank at the same time I added the methylene blue and before they had hatched.

I'm using a 10g tank filled to about 8g and changing 4g 5-6 times a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have two hatching bottles and with the continued warm weather I get a good hatch in about 36 hours. Each bottle will last about a week before it needs to be restarted. I just add a small amount of decapped eggs everyday. To feed all I need to do is turn off the air pump 30 seconds and then strain a bit through the brine net. The unhatched decapped eggs sink.

I tried some crushed flake last night but it's hard to tell if they're eating eat.
 

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Adding flake
Once the body size is about 1/4 - 3/8" (around 5 weeks) I add just a pinch of flake rubbed to powder between my fingers before feeding the shrimp. Giving them a few minutes to get curious it doesn't take long and they are eating it. Food is right there with good water for development so I continue feeding brine's until they get bigger and truly are copies of the parents guessing the average is about 2 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They'll eat anything now. I had a die off after about 2 weeks and assume they didn't get enough to eat. Still have a 10g tank full of them though. lol

Both parents showed natural stripe coloration but very few of the fry do. One has deformed twisted pectoral fins. An interesting deformity in one is a hole in it's body right at the dorsal fin. The babies are a little smaller than dime size and this particular one shows almost no color and the only way I see this hole is if it's against the dark background so I can see through it. It's really a hole and not a total lack of pigment.

This shows the approximate position of the hole. No way I can get a picture of it yet. Even with my reading glasses and a magnifying glass it's hard to see. For scale, the hole is about twice the size of it's eye. About half the hole is in the body and the other half in the dorsal fin itself.

 
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