Not with water, but with plants, hardscape or a handful of substrate that has the 'good' bacteria in it. Even better, move over some filter media from your established tank.
Right now the parameters of my established tank are a little out of whack. It's a Fluval Spec V 5-gallon, medium planted, with 10 cherry shrimp and a betta.What is the GH and KH of your water? And tanks?
Worst case scenario, the shrimp can remain in a tank or bucket with no filtration. Add an air stone for extra oxygen and keep an eye on the parameters.
Do this while you are getting the second tank up and running.
I'm wondering if replacing my carbon filter did it. Can I bump up the GH with mineral rocks? And decrease ammonia with an ammonia toxifier? How come my Nite-Out II wasn't bringing nitrites and ammonia down with the water changes? I could just forego both the Stress Coat and the Nite-Out II and get Amquel.
I'm probably doing everything wrong. I filled the new 2.5 gallon tank with water, waited 30 min, put in some dechlorinator, then put in the dead body of the cherry shrimp earlier today and some mini-pellets. I just rinsed my established's tank inner sponge filter in the new tank's water until the water got really cloudy. I took the nasty old biomax bio rings from my old filter and put it in the new filter, in the bottom compartment. Then I transferred a few handfuls of gravel, some plants, a moss ball from the old tank to the new one. Am I on the right track? I'll check the ammonia levels tomorrow when I find my master test kit.
Alright then, small water changes every three days, with just a little bit of Stress Coat and the remineralizer in the established tank.If you want to use the conditioner straight in the tank, then care needs to be used as too much will cause stress. So, rather than adding even more stuff to the tank that could result in stress, why not just do frequent but small water changes to get the current levels down? You want to do them at least every 3 days, if not a little more frequent, until things get stabilized.
Done! Luckily none have gone in through the slits (one was on them but didn't go in), but it's all clear so they can see the betta is inside. Ever since the betta has gone in the isolation box, my previously hidden shrimp have come back out, wewt! It's driving my betta nuts. He hasn't tried to attack any before but he likes to creep up on them and make them jump/flee, so when they clean the roots of the frobit near him, he gets antsy.If you can isolate the betta in the current tank, definitely try that! Shrimp though can sometimes find their way into places they shouldn't be.... such as breeding boxes, canister filters, HOB's.
Luckily I haven't had much of this problem with the Fluval Spec V. The first time I got cherry shrimp, a few of them checked out the inside/top of the filter, went 'meh' and never went back in. I pull the filter up now just enough that they can't go inside. Though the other day after I got my new additional shrimp in, the filter was heavy enough that it went back down, and I found a yellow diamond back sucked into the lower filter bypass. About had a heartattack about that. I had to gently pull him out with tweezers because the rest of him was too big to go all the way through. Luckily he wasn't dead, he swam right off after. Now I keep a pen in place under the handle of the filter to keep it raised just enough to block off the slits... Case in point, I pulled 4 shrimp out of the HOB on my 20 gallon tank. I'm surprised I didn't kill them since the HOB was turned off and drained of water (massive water change caused the water in the HOB to drain out... tank is doomed...). I started a drip acclimation back into the tank, then remembered I saw a shrimp in the HOB, and it would probably be a good idea to drip the water back into the HOB to keep the bacteria alive. In case the shrimp was still alive, despite the HOB being drained of nearly all the water, I moved the drip to the HOB. Three days later, tank still isn't filled back up and I check the HOB and see 3 shrimp just sitting at the edge right where the water flows back into the tank! I look inside and there's 4 shrimp! I'm honestly not convinced that there isn't a 5th or 6th shrimp hiding in there somewhere!
I got nervous and went ahead and did that, although I gave it more than just a squeeze. I tried washing it off in the water, I squeezed it a LOT... Hopefully I haven't just messed with my established tank's parameters even more when I put it back in.As far as your choices... I would go with "B". Take the filter and give it a good squeeze or two into the new tank or into the new filter media, then place it back into your first tank.
I figured his death wouldn't be for nothing! That and I have nowhere to buy pure ammonia from in my tiny town. Should I take him out and just stick with fish food? I have mini pellets right now but tomorrow I'm going to buy fish flakes.I would have also tossed the dead body...
We don't have one, but I found regular ammonia at the grocery store today!If you have an Ace Hardware, they'll have ammonia!
Would I be wrong in saying I think Fluval Spec III and V have these? It's a big sponge thing with cartridges, next to a compartment that has the air pump.Sponge filters are popular in the shrimp hobby... the type driven by an air pump. To give you an idea... linked to some below. Not necessarily these specifically, but these style of sponge filters!
The trick to the Fluval Spec tanks is to pull the sponge/foam filter? thing (I'm still learning the terms, so I don't know what to call this thing yet) up so that the mesh/sponge blocks the holes. I run a pen underneath the handle so that the weight of the water doesn't drag it back down to its original position.For your Fluval, you might want to consider getting some extra foam to cover the holes or even stainless steel mesh. The adults might not go into the small openings, but babies probably would! (making foam better...)
It's called Signature Home All-Purpose Cleaner Ammonia. It's clear but when I shake it, it foams up a lot at the top. Ingredients are ammonium hydroxide and surfactant. Contains no phosphorous.Shake the ammonia. If it looks like clear water, you are good!
If it's colored or foams up at the top, it's bad.