[manini]

I've been collecting plants for awhile now and like any hobby, I am having space issues. Growing plants in their emerged form not only is an easier way to house more of them in a smaller space, but also much more easier to keep track of them. I do keep a lot of my plants submerged still but a few of my emerged stem and sword collection does very well outside. Many of them still needs to be transitioned out and one day I hope they all will. Those that need a little more humidity I keep indoors. Here are some photos of my indoor project. Hopefully one day the empty tanks will be filled. These are mainly my aroids and a few crypts that has transitioned.

 

[lbacha]

Let me start by saying amazing set-up..

How long have you been using the humidity domes and have you had any issues, I've had mine going for a couple months and I'm trying to figure out what the drawback might be, I want to go with something more permanent like you have on the top shelve but I'm having a hard time sourcing a good affordable tank.

Len

 

[Centromochlus]

Thanks for sharing these photos JoJo. The domes look like a really good option for crypts/bucephalandras. You have quite the collection!

Can you maybe give us some specs, specifically what type of lighting you're using and what substrate?

 

[manini]

Let me start by saying amazing set-up..

How long have you been using the humidity domes and have you had any issues, I've had mine going for a couple months and I'm trying to figure out what the drawback might be, I want to go with something more permanent like you have on the top shelve but I'm having a hard time sourcing a good affordable tank.

Len

Hi Len, Thanks. I've been using these humidomes for a little over a year now. I think the only drawback to these humidomes is its tray. If they were made a bit more ridged, it would be a lot easier to pull out of the shelves with out the pots shifting and falling. The best part of it is that they are cheap. The permanent ones are made by Zoo Med and yes are expensive. Those are the ones that house my taller growing plants.

 

[manini]

Thanks for sharing these photos JoJo. The domes look like a really good option for crypts/bucephalandras. You have quite the collection!

Can you maybe give us some specs, specifically what type of lighting you're using and what substrate?

Lights that are on the humidomes are 36" t5HO 39W Giesemann Midday. Most pots contain brand new AS Amazonia normal capped with powder. A few of the crypts do have a mix of sand,AS amazonia, peat, and crushed almond leaves (just for experiments). Hope that helps.

 

[lbacha]

Hi Len, Thanks. I've been using these humidomes for a little over a year now. I think the only drawback to these humidomes is its tray. If they were made a bit more ridged, it would be a lot easier to pull out of the shelves with out the pots shifting and falling. The best part of it is that they are cheap. The permanent ones are made by Zoo Med and yes are expensive. Those are the ones that house my taller growing plants.

I agree on the trays I actually stack 3 together (at a $1.50 each it's not too expensive) and it makes the whole setup rigid enough to pick up half full of water, I ussually siphon them dry before moving though. Glad to hear you havn't had any issues with the domes, what is you normal humidity and temp in the room they are in if you don't mind me asking, so far mine has been around 73' F and 55-60% humidity I'm not sure how much outside parameters affect the domes but I'm thinking of trying some experiments in different environments, especially with winter (and dry conditions) coming..

Len

 

[nonconductive]

wow very nice!

 

[manini]

I agree on the trays I actually stack 3 together (at a $1.50 each it's not too expensive) and it makes the whole setup rigid enough to pick up half full of water, I ussually siphon them dry before moving though. Glad to hear you havn't had any issues with the domes, what is you normal humidity and temp in the room they are in if you don't mind me asking, so far mine has been around 73' F and 55-60% humidity I'm not sure how much outside parameters affect the domes but I'm thinking of trying some experiments in different environments, especially with winter (and dry conditions) coming..

Len

Awesome tip on the trays. Thanks. As far as temperature and humidity in the room, I have never measured it. I know that the temp fluctuates between 79-86'. For humidity, I take it it's roughly between 80-85%? Not too positive on that though.

 

[lbacha]

Awesome tip on the trays. Thanks. As far as temperature and humidity in the room, I have never measured it. I know that the temp fluctuates between 79-86'. For humidity, I take it it's roughly between 80-85%? Not too positive on that though.

I figured humidity and temp was higher there than here, my biggest concern with the domes is that the thin plastic isn't a great insulator so temp variations and humidity variations may affect the levels here in ohio.

Len

 

[matt12]

I ENVY YOU!!!!!!!!! lol. Great idea for the domes. now i know what i need to do! are those 2.5'' pots?

 

[manini]

They are 3 inch pots.

 

[Sharkfood]

Are you eventually able to grow your emersed crypts without the humidity domes? I have a few growing in covered tanks, but am irritated by the condensation obscuring my view. I've searched around for information on the minimum humidity for crypt growth, but have not been very successful.

I realize the humidity is very high where you live, but am curious whether these plants could survive at 75-80% humidity or at least a non-condensing level, as well as whether this requires replacement of all the existing leaves. I have sword plants growing in regular housepots without humidity trays, and they grow very well, but a similar experience with lucens was unsuccessful.

To Ibacha: I have grown Crypts in water that was under 70F. Your typical tropical plant is ok as long as you don't let the temperature get into the 50's. Some are much more cold tolerant, but then again, some are much less. Sword plants seem to handle temperatures in thes 60's fine emersed, but melted on me when submerged in similar temperatures.

 

[lbacha]

Are you eventually able to grow your emersed crypts without the humidity domes? I have a few growing in covered tanks, but am irritated by the condensation obscuring my view. I've searched around for information on the minimum humidity for crypt growth, but have not been very successful.

I realize the humidity is very high where you live, but am curious whether these plants could survive at 75-80% humidity or at least a non-condensing level, as well as whether this requires replacement of all the existing leaves. I have sword plants growing in regular housepots without humidity trays, and they grow very well, but a similar experience with lucens was unsuccessful.

To Ibacha: I have grown Crypts in water that was under 70F. Your typical tropical plant is ok as long as you don't let the temperature get into the 50's. Some are much more cold tolerant, but then again, some are much less. Sword plants seem to handle temperatures in thes 60's fine emersed, but melted on me when submerged in similar temperatures.

Sharkfood

The reason for heating the water isn't because they need higher water temp but to increase the humidity or in my case make sure it dosn't drop, while some crypts can grow in humidity levels as low as 70% they need to be aclimated to this level over time and they will lose their submersed leaves, I'm trying to aclimate them as well as bucephelandras so I really don't want my humidity dropping any lower than 85% to make sure they don't melt. As for swords I have heard they are much more forgiving of lower humidity levels which is why you probably had no issues with the sword but the lucens didn't work out, if you had aclimated the lucens to the lower humidity they probably would have been fine, they would have grown completly new leaves though.

Len

 

[Sharkfood]

I assumed the lucens died because of improper acclimation. I was mosly curious how low the humidity levels could be maintained with good acclimation.

Swords are definitely very forgiving. I don't bother to acclimate them at all. The old leaves dry up, but new ones shoot out so fast that it makes little difference.

 

[lbacha]

I assumed the lucens died because of improper acclimation. I was mosly curious how low the humidity levels could be maintained with good acclimation.

Swords are definitely very forgiving. I don't bother to acclimate them at all. The old leaves dry up, but new ones shoot out so fast that it makes little difference.

the key is not letting the rhizome dry out, I would put enough water to cover it then once it sends up new emersed leaves you can lower the water level.

Len

 

[manini]

Are you eventually able to grow your emersed crypts without the humidity domes? I have a few growing in covered tanks, but am irritated by the condensation obscuring my view. I've searched around for information on the minimum humidity for crypt growth, but have not been very successful.

I realize the humidity is very high where you live, but am curious whether these plants could survive at 75-80% humidity or at least a non-condensing level, as well as whether this requires replacement of all the existing leaves. I have sword plants growing in regular housepots without humidity trays, and they grow very well, but a similar experience with lucens was unsuccessful.

Yes, I have had success growing C.wendtii and C. lucens outside fully exposed to the elements. Like anything, acclimation is key. Here are 2 photos of my 75g tank that I have about 65-70% humidity with 2, 3 inch fans to help circulate the air. C. 'mioya' and lucens is in the front. The tank has not been cleaned in 2 weeks and you can see i've lost about 1 1/2 of water due to evaporation. You can see the original water line in the first photo.

 

[Crispino L Ramos]

I hope you and your tanks are alright after all the temblors/earthquake today.