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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I would like to have the shimmering effect, as well as the power/heat saving effect of LEDs, and I'm going to be making a DIY hood and stand for my new 75G tank. :bounce: My question is, can I use some of the screw in LEDs listed on amazon.com for the LED lighting?

I was thinking about using some of these: http://www.amazon.com/Feit-Electric...P2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1312919074&sr=8-19
They are listed as 5 LED's, and 6.5 Watts. I could use some cheap-o screw in fixtures and slim junction boxes in the hood. The hood isn't going to be adjustable, so the bulb itself will probably sit about 4 inches from the top of the water surface, and therefore about 28 inches from the substrate. The J-boxes and cheap-o fixtures will cost about 5 dollars total a piece, and I figure 4 lights will run me a little over 80 dollars. I've read through the first 15 pages or so of Hoppy's DIY LED thread, and have made myself confounded and confused! I figure the LEDs are about 1 watt a piece, and 1.5 watts to run whatever type of mini driver must be installed in the base? Am I even on the right track to have the correct amount and spectrum of lighting? I want to have a medium amount of light (just enough to not HAVE to use co2)

Questions? Comments? Concerns? B*%&$^s? Gripes? Complaints?
 

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I don't think those are going to work well lighting an aquarium. First, they are much less efficient than they should be, using 1.5 watt LEDs instead of 3+ watt LEDs. Second, they appear to have a diffuser dome over the LEDs, which will scatter and waste much of the light, and eliminate the "shimmer" effect you want. Third, there are many much more suitable LED screw-in lights that would work a lot better.
 

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I've been looking at PAR38 spotlights that screw in to a standard, Edison socket. They run at 12W and put out about 1000 lumens. They're a little bit pricey, but last 5-6x as long as a T5HO bulb and cost about 2x as much. There are different types. What you want would be the Cree 12x1W LED type. They run about $50 each if you shop around a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hoppy: Thank you very much for the advice. I thought that 1W LED's would put out enough power to reach through the water, but apparently it's 3 or more? And I'm at a loss regarding the "better" LED screw in lights. If you could clue me in a little more on why they are better, I am more than willing to listen. I take it that what I want in a screw in LED light would be something which utilizes more than 3 watts when total wattage used is divided by total number of LEDs?

Sharkfood: The cree 12x1 par38s just have one watt of power per LED as well. Isn't this too little power to penetrate through the water?
 

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I will be doing some PAR measurement for a 15x1W 6,700K(and a 4000K) PAR38 LED with 60 degree lens these couple days-you may determine whether they are good enough for your application base on those results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wingo, I am very interested to find out what kind of info you get from your new bulbs, thank you for checking out my thread!

I this light

http://www.amazon.com/Natural-White...OM/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1312976436&sr=8-24

and it appears to be a single LED, running at 5 watts. It runs on 12V so I suppose I would have to get some kind of halogen track lighting and replace the bulbs with these. The problem is that most halogen track lights will cost a bit, and possibly put my lights too close to the water. Are there any slim under cabinet lights where I can find out if they will have the proper connections to plug these LEDs into them? I'm not asking anyone to do the research for me, just tell me what to search for!
 

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Hoppy: Thank you very much for the advice. I thought that 1W LED's would put out enough power to reach through the water, but apparently it's 3 or more? And I'm at a loss regarding the "better" LED screw in lights. If you could clue me in a little more on why they are better, I am more than willing to listen. I take it that what I want in a screw in LED light would be something which utilizes more than 3 watts when total wattage used is divided by total number of LEDs?

Sharkfood: The cree 12x1 par38s just have one watt of power per LED as well. Isn't this too little power to penetrate through the water?
All light penetrates water equally. That isn't the problem. The diffuser dome over the bulb you mentioned is a problem, and, if you are going to use LED lights, it makes good sense to get efficient ones. I have seen many LED bulbs advertised, some of which use Cree 3 watt LEDs, but I don't keep track of them, so I don't know where to find them now. I also don't have any data or other means of even guessing how much light any of the LED bulbs will give you. It doesn't make any sense to buy one and test it, since that particular bulb, no matter which one it is, is very likely to be superseded by a better one within a few months. That market is very dynamic right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I think I may have found something that looks like it will work for my application.

http://www.amazon.com/Waterpoof-Out...0O/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1313077762&sr=8-26

It's a single 10 watt LED floodlight which is at 6000k temperature, and has a 125 degree spread. I am hoping that two of these would work for my 75g aquarium.

Any comments/ideas on what you think of these?

Edit: I wanted to thank you Hoppy, for the advice you've given. You have probably saved me from quite a bit of hastle and wasted money in getting the lights I listed originally.
 

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you might need to use three of those on a 48 inch tank. I have one not in use yet but the light output is ok. If I was going to use it in a canopy I would add one or two T5 to it but that is me. If you are going to go with low light plants than should be fine.


I think I may have found something that looks like it will work for my application.

http://www.amazon.com/Waterpoof-Out...0O/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1313077762&sr=8-26

It's a single 10 watt LED floodlight which is at 6000k temperature, and has a 125 degree spread. I am hoping that two of these would work for my 75g aquarium.

Any comments/ideas on what you think of these?

Edit: I wanted to thank you Hoppy, for the advice you've given. You have probably saved me from quite a bit of hastle and wasted money in getting the lights I listed originally.
 

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I assume that the tank being a 75 gallon is about 18 or 20 inch tall right? If so than four might do it one every foot. If you do that you should be able to keep Crypts and similar plants. I dont think you will be able to get HC or dwarf hair grass to grow very well but you never know.

Hhhmmm... 3 for a four foot, and low light plants, huh? Do you think 4 would give me "moderate" lighting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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220 on lights! :eek:
Lighting is not infrequently the most expensive piece of hardware in an aquarium setup. Agreed with the eek of it all, but it's not terribly surprising, unfortunately. Also, if done right and kept for a long enough period, a substantial fraction of the cost will be recouped in lower electric bills/ fewer replacement bulbs.
 

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Lighting is not infrequently the most expensive piece of hardware in an aquarium setup. Agreed with the eek of it all, but it's not terribly surprising, unfortunately. Also, if done right and kept for a long enough period, a substantial fraction of the cost will be recouped in lower electric bills/ fewer replacement bulbs.
oh I know...i went cheap on lighting, probably spent around $100 total on lighting for my 29 and 40.

I considered LED bulbs instead of CFLs for my 40 but the 25-30 dollar price tag per bulb was a big deterrent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I figure it will be cheaper if you span the price out over the period of a couple of years. The price of two t5 bulbs would be what, around 30 dollars? Buy them now, then in about 12 months buy two more, and in 24 months buy two more. That's 90 dollars. Plus I need the fixture to accompany them. Probably 50 dollars? Now we're up to 140. Not sure how much it will affect the electric bill, but let's be modest. Say they save me 10 dollars per year. That's $160 that I would be spending on T-5s. Now the LED lights will probably last at least 6 years (that's consumer math. Producer says "lasts up to 10 years" = 6 years, 7 if you're lucky) So even after two years, my costs won't be recouped. But 3 or 4? Certainly.

Instead of surprised faces over the cost, how about something else. Anyone think the single 50W LED would provide too much light, and cause algae outbreaks? What about if the 50 doesn't have enough spread, and I have to use two 10W LEDs, (70LED Watts) I have stock lighting on my two aquariums, and a regular reading light above my 3 gal. planted shrimp vase. This 75 gal. is going to be quite the endeavor.

If you want shock value, take into consideration the hood I'm going to build will probably be about $150 WITHOUT lights. And the stand (providing I weren't getting some free lumber) would cost about $400

This is the reason I'm on these forums. I don't need advice on woodworking. I need advice on whether or not I'm going to have a nervous breakdown due to not being able to control a microscopic green organism inside of a stupid glass box! So, any ideas on what I should expect if I install one of these bad boys 3 inches above the water in my tank? http://www.amazon.com/Waterpoof-Sec...K392/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1313449837&sr=8-6
 

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I'd be concerned about the spread. I would think for low light plants 3 would do it for sure, 2 not so sure without seeing it on and the kinda coverage you can expect. Wonder what kind of intensity it will have directly under the light? Might have algae problems directly under it and not so much at the outskirts.

Just out of curiosity why is the stand going to cost $400? Even with lumber I would expect DIY stands to range from $50-$100 for something like a 20-30 gallon $100-$250 for a 55-75 gallons, maybe I'm way off.
 

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It's not the brand you asked about but mine should give you some general distribution figures of the PAR of a PAR38 6,700K.

1st post, last pic
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/wingo-led/95350-par-series-led-reef-bulbs.html


If going PAR38 15x1W with 60 degree, you probably want 3 pcs and hang them ~30 inch from the bottom base on the diagram.





Wingo, I am very interested to find out what kind of info you get from your new bulbs, thank you for checking out my thread!

I this light

http://www.amazon.com/Natural-White...OM/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1312976436&sr=8-24

and it appears to be a single LED, running at 5 watts. It runs on 12V so I suppose I would have to get some kind of halogen track lighting and replace the bulbs with these. The problem is that most halogen track lights will cost a bit, and possibly put my lights too close to the water. Are there any slim under cabinet lights where I can find out if they will have the proper connections to plug these LEDs into them? I'm not asking anyone to do the research for me, just tell me what to search for!
5x1W gives more light than 1x5W.

You can also ignore the first bulb in your first post because that one use SMD and most SMD bulbs are designed for even distribution and thus will not shimmer. You need power leds and lens to concentrate the ray for shimmering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just out of curiosity why is the stand going to cost $400? Even with lumber I would expect DIY stands to range from $50-$100 for something like a 20-30 gallon $100-$250 for a 55-75 gallons, maybe I'm way off.
I'm going with an asian theme for the stand and hood. The hood is going to have oak dental crown molding going all the way around it, then a flat portion, then it will be stepped up again with another piece of crown. Large dental oak crown molding is EXPENSIVE! And as for the stand, the feet are going to be made of 4x10s (just TRY to find some of these... PRICEY!!!) And due to certain cool factors that I want incorporated into the stand, I'm not going to be able to use 2x4s almost anywhere. The structural components will mainly be held together with oak (due to being stronger than a pine 2x4 but much thinner) Also, the actual base that the aquarium will be sitting on is going to be DIY butcher board made out of 2x6s... that alone is going to be pricey. But I managed to find free 4x10s, and some free oak (old palattes that I can pick through, and rip apart) Plus I'm going to need the hinges, and inlay pieces. I'm planning on making this stand... not to sound too pompous or anything... but, I'm planning on making my "masterpiece" The stand will be my "prettiest" work yet. I'm both looking forward to it, and am quite afraid of it. Especially if the aquarium lighting and such doesn't work out, and I have a pretty stand with a giant green blob sitting on top of it... yech!
 
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